How would i find out which posts are +ve / -ve (there is a wide and a narrow post on the speaker but not labelled) And how do i know which is the +ve from the OEM wiring ? I hope i dont have to trace the wiring and remove the HU
this is kinda off topic i think? But in my friend's civic he has a wire coming out that plugs in anywhere a headphone could be plugged into. laptop, ipod, cd player and whatever else. Anyone know how to do this on our cars?
input, i think? basically you plug in your ipod or laptop, and then it plays through the speakers in the car.
Ok is this for a stock head unit or aftermarket. For aftermarket, a lot of head units have auxilary inputs in the form of RCA's in the back. You can run a male RCA to female headset jack out from the head unit very easy...
I thought the larger was +ve too but im using who ever has knowledge as basis what i can do is use a 1.5v battery and check, when i connect it will the cone will move in or out and Ill post the results
Don't think you can do anything with the stock except an fm modulator. That should work though...you just have to tune your radio to whatever frequency you set it at to listen to the devices.
You can... though it's not a really neat and clean setup. There's a place that sells a little board that plugs into your stock head unit and gives you an AUX in port. The catch is that you need to play a 'silent' cd (70+ minutes of nothing on it) on repeat to use it, as it effectively taps into the pre-amp cd signal. That aside, it does work pretty well.
amol made something like this for his car but he tapped the preamp for the am dial. who listens to am anymore anyways.
I do listen to Clark howard - AM But i do like to know about the MOD to the AM tap any links ??? BTW the larger connector is +ve
Place speaker wire on the tabs on the back of the speaker...place each wire on different posts on a nine volt battery if the speaker cone pops inwards then reverse the wires and try again what you are trying to do is make the cone move out with the current from the battery...when the cone moves out then the wire on the postitive post of the battery is the pos. tab on the speaker cone
i got a sony HU for 120 @ best buy with mp3 play capability and an aux in jack, so they are fairly cheap, had the RCA running to my center console. if you're savvy about soldering, look for the diagram (scooby mods) where they tap the line level FM signal and you can tool with that.
Yeah aftermarket is easier. It can be done with stock, but why not have a little better head unit with front, rear and sub pre-amp outs to go with it! I have never kept a stock system in any of my cars for more than a couple months. I personally like the JVC and Panasonic head units. There are others that are cheaper and more expensive, but for the money these are pretty dang good. I mean when comparing one that is $150 to one that is $200, do yourself a favor and save the extra $50 up and get a good one...nothing against sony, just not my prefered brand...the new explodes just have not sat well with me. Just a personal preference though. I have friends who have their stuff and like it. One nice thing about some of the newer head units though is that they have this jack on the front of the head unit so you just plug right in to the head unit.
All speakers? I would guess you are looking at about $225 for a good solid head unit with the features you want, $250 for a decent pair of component front speakers, $125 for the rear, $250 for a decent 4 channel to run the fronts and rears, $300 for a good mono amp, and $250 for a good single 12" and enclosure...count on $175 in wiring with a cap and $25 in speaker wire, then about $40 for the stuff for the head unit. Install... do it yourself. You will learn a lot and there is plenty of info out there for ya.