In my quest for more power I am constantly changing my mind about what to do. First of all I know my EJ205 is pretty much maxed out. I also know I need a tranny which I have decided for the millionth time to just get PPG gearset. Now I am faced with another decision. What do I do about engine? Should I go with a EJ257 shortblock swap? Or should I just get a EJ207? Hmmm the 2.5L will give me tons of torque but the heads still need work done to it. I just don't want the limits of the WRX heads to be there. However the hybrid swap is the most cost effective. The EJ207 is virtually bullet proof compared to any of the other EJ platforms. Plus the 8K rev limit is mightly nice not to mention how smooth those engines run. I rode in a buddy of mines EJ207 car and that engine sounds and performs smooth as butter. Sooooo sweet. Heh I dunno what to do. What do you guys thinK?
The EJ207 is the JDM Version 7 engine. 8K rev limit and completely forged internals from the factory. Also it's a semi closed deck design.
Yeah I am all for uniqueness. I am just wondering how hard and pricey it is to source things if something went bad with the EJ207 though.
I'mma just spill the beans. I just got a sweet offer on a EJ207 long block with the ECU for $2500. THey are checking the compression for me and if it's good it's gonna be in my garage. They said they will hold it for me until I can make my mind up which was why I am asking you guys. Just called SS and he said hands down EJ207. Spool won't be a fast but with 8k rev limit and a rock solid 500hp engine in factory form you can't complain.
Well nothing is confirmed until I hear from them. Once I get the compression #'s I'll make up my mind. They said it make take them 3-4 days so I have time to think about this hard. It wouldn't be something I would drop right in the car now as I want to get my use outta the EJ205 plus I need a tranny before any extra power.
^^ Agreed, In fact I talked to Siegel recently about the hybrid and since the power difference is like maybe 75hp and 100ftlb from my maxed out 2.0 w/meth..I am thinking NOT. Like I told SS if I am block swapping I better get 500hp and equivalent torque when all said is done.
Definitely got EJ207. That is my only reason for not wanting an STI. I love the Rally Heritage and would love me a 2.0 STI. Not a big fan of the 2.5.
Well just talked to guy and he won't accept payment until he has done a leakdown and compression test. Crosses fingers..... The hell with USDM.....I'm going BAM JDM here.
I would hardly say that. The EJ207 has a 9:1 compression ratio and combined with the AVCS it spools a hair slower than the 2.5. EJ207 is what I want in my wagon.
Well for the same $2500 you could also put together a nice hybrid. $1000 or less for the SB (I paid $800 with 15k miles on it), $500 for forged pistons, Then call it another $200 for machine work to get it balanced. $500 for .264 cams and that leaves $300 for head gaskets, intake gaskets, oil pump, etc. Seems that would be a pretty mean setup. Add another $500 for cams with springs and ti retainers and you can now rev to 8k for a $3k. At the same time you could also do the bowl clean up and some mild port work yourself and end up with better flowing heads. It really is pretty easy once you look at it. I would just hate to see you end up wanting more...I mean come on it IS a 25% increase in displacement!!
Ill have to agree with that 25 percent, port and polish youre own heads, good rods and pistons in a 2.5 then youre good to 600 ish
But you don't understand the entire concept though. Sooooo much room here for error and things not going right. Something screws up then you pretty much have to start over depending on what happened. You have to rely on non-factory parts which don't last nearly as long as factory made stuff. I'm not only looking for something that is strong here but also something that will last me almost as much as my stocker will as well. Most of the custom 2.5L have piston slap and slight oil burning and all that stuff. Whereas the EJ207 will sound and perform smooth as a sharp knife cutting through butter.
You're making it sound like a built motor is somehow automatically cursed from the get-go. If you do a proper buildup with good machining and good parts, it'll be a nice solid setup. Also, non-factory parts don't last as long as factory made? What are you referring to here?
I have to disagree. It is all in the build and the machinist. They can last just as long, but you have to do it right. Don't use drop in pistons, get the block bore honed for them. The ones you read about are going the cheap route and just getting drop in pistons. If you get slightly oversized pistons and have the block bore honed (talk tothe machinist about your goals) then you can run the clearances every bit as tight as the factory if you want. If you go straight to the manufacturer you can actually get the pistons matched to your current bore. There is some ariance in all forgings, factory or aftermarket, and they can set you up with some that exactly match what you want if the machinist measures your current bores and gives the measurements to the piston company. They can then send you out specific pistons for your engine. Get it balanced and it will be every bit as smooth...a decent shop balances it to 10,000 rpm's! And you are talking about a used and probably abused factory engine that could fail at any time also, vs a brand new engine that you have put together by a shop you trust. Just because it is JDM factory does not necessarily mean it is superior.
I have a machine shop that does all my work, they do awesome work, and you wont have any piston slap that comes from poor machine work or no machine work, drop in pistons are stupid.
I'm talking from experience and a money stand point here. There is no one and I mean no one around here that can build a decent engine. It sucks being in SC. Every engine I've had built for my old DSM was trash....ended up blowing it. The last time I went 100% OEM and it's still up and running strong. I used different machinists and manufacturers for each of the 5 builds I did with the DSM. Slowboy Racing, Bushur, and other reputable DSM'ers built my engines. They were crap which quite frankly what scares the crap out of me when it comes to piecing my own setup together. I've been crapped enough to the point where I am struggling to get out of that debt (read 3 credit cards) and I just don't want to have to deal with that headache yet I still want to have something I can enjoy and please me. Don't get me wrong I am perfectly happy with my car but I have always wanted a higher revving 450 hp car that is 100% reliable. I've yet to have one and damn it I will one day.
Just to counter that, look how many people blow their stock motors...I think it has more to do withthe tune than anything. Sure there can be assebly errors, but that is why you go to a reputable builder that will stand behind their work. In SC though I just can't help you.
So you see where I am coming from then.....I'm just outta luck when it comes to a good builder that won't rip me off. LOL
Wait for the 3.7L in the 08 Tribecca.....use that. If you do some calculations...if you can make 450 to 500 wheel HP reliably with the EJ257....then... 475 (average) /2.5=190. 190HP per litre. 190x3.7=703 700 RELIABLE wheel HP. Not too bad says the bench racer. Now, this is STRICKTLY SPECULATION!!!!!!!!! The 3.7 *SHOULD* have AVCS and Variable Valve Lift (VVL) just like the current EZ30R. That means that the estimated hp output should be easily achieved. However...I do not have any clue as to if it will have the same, or SIMILAR, dimentions to the EZ30R...which takes up the same amount of space as the EJ25D/EJ257....figuratively speaking.
*cough* 207 *cough* If you wanted to get crazy you could always stroke it out to a 2.2 or 2.3. But like I said before, I vote for the ver7.
I voted for the 2.5L mainly because that is the route that I took. And as stated above, I think that both reliability and engine longevity depend mostly on the quality of the tune (though the quality of the build and proper maintenance are also important).
Could you.....take an ej207 and switch out to a ej22t bottom end? The internals and such should fit right over right?
Not worth it. The medium cast method aluminium does not dissapate heat very well.... The 207 is better and tougher. The 257 is even more so, PLUS, you get 500cc more displacement.
LOL well I'm not liking the leakdown test results on this motor. Something about it is making me worry. I think I will do the smart thing and put that money towards my CC debt and get that crap taken care of.
Excellent choice. As much fun as hobbies are, if you need to go into debt to fund them it's time to step back and have a look at your priorities.
Yeah. No sense getting something that I can't drop in right away anyways. Need a tranny first so pay off the CC's then get the tranny. Man I must be getting old........lol
I seriously doubt attaining 700 reliable whp out of that motor. Motors don't just 'scale up' that way.
Nope. It's 6 cylinders which mostly means the walls are most likely thinner as well. But it does mean instant torque though. Heh........ I think I am gonna hold off the engine. I love this car but I have gotten used to the new power so it feels slow again. I think more than anything I want the low end grunt and torque. 2.5 hybrid it is. Game plan is as follows: Pay off CC's. Turn around and use one card to get the PPG's. Pay that card off and go 2.5. The only exception is if something happens in the meantime.
If your credit score is decent (720+) you should have no problems qualifying for 0% cards which would let you finance the gears for 'free'. If you're paying interest (at least more than 3-4%) on your purchase and it's not NECESSARY to have, far better to save up for it and pay cash.
Yeah my credit score is great but those 3 cards need to be paid off. Once they are I am applying for a 0% interest card. I want a Subaru Chase card.....Subie bucks can come in handy.
Have not found one of these so called 0% cards. I have found plenty that have an intro period with 0% for like a year or so, but I keep hearing about 0% cards where you just have to make 1 purchase a month to maintain the 0% and have not found one.
Discover and Citi have both done these on and off. I have Discover '0% for life' card that requires a minimum of 2 purchases a month to retain the 0% interest rate. No minimum purchase, so nothing stopping you from buying two packs of gum a month. Most people just get a 0% card and then another one once the first is about to expire. You can actually make some serious cash with 'em; I know people who are carrying $150k at 0% and just stuck it in a 5% yield bank account for the duration. That's $7,500 in a year with no real risk.
See I have heard about the Discover one, but have never seen it advertised or found an add to apply for one.