i know that i have fingers and i can research, but do any of you guys know how much these mods will cost me? i have listed ones that i know, but some prices are missing. and if you guys think some of the prices can be lowered, please tell me where i can get them for lower price. some of you might think i'm not doing all that's needed to make my rex a beast, but i want my wrx to be economical in every situation for everyday drivng (i.e. downpipe will NOT be included due to gas mileage, and springs that lower my car too much is more of a hinderance in everyday driving situation) also, if you guys have any suggestions, please let me know. POWER: K&N drop-in filter ($20?) ecutek stage 1 or 2 ($700?) already have axle-back sti exhaust HANDLING: -front and rear hollow sway bars ($300?) -whiteline steering rack bushing ($150?+installation $90= $240) -still looking for rim/tire combo. for the tire, i want a tire that is compromised between dry/wet surface, and still have a very aggressive thread pattern (i consider the bridgestones on the stock sti VERY aggressive...it's almost drag radials, but i suspect that one is more towards dry sruface i think. We get a lot of rain in georgia, so i need something that will both handle dry and wet.). I want to run at least 225. I'm thinking that wider tires will eat more gas though.i want high durability with better-than-stock grip. rims WILL BE 17". EXTERIOR GODDIES: -EDM bugeye headlight housing and all HID goodies ($1200 from subydude?) if there is a cheaper option to do HIDs with proper projectors, please let me know. I know i can get a cheaper housing with a projector (may be morettes?) but those dont have protection over it, and i am not going to risk it. it's probably harder to find a protection layer, but may be if i come across a stock bugeye headlight that is on sale, i might do a little DIY. (starts out with a housing like this one: -yellow film on fog lights ($20) INTERIOR GODDIES: Red illuminated lights for gauges and HVAC (the light condoms $35?) short shift kit (i hear some of them are adjustable. still researching on which one i really want. $150?)
I'll throw my 2 cents in. Not sure about the current EcuTek pricing since it's changed, it used to be $850 for license+tune. Other options are Used Cobb Accessport $350-400, tuning past the off-the-shelf maps will likely run you $200-300. Open source tools + tactrix cable $90 or so, tuning should run you $100-ish an hour. Downpipe $200-400, might be able to find a catless for less than that Uppipe $60-80 for a gutted one, or gut your own for free, $150+ for aftermarket ones Ming's 'IxizShift' is < $100 I think, and it's adjustable for throw. I like mine.
thanks for the input. I am highly against DP/UP combo, because of gas mileage. i want some kind of a compromise between performance and economy. that's why i think ecutek is worth it, because you can have economy setting and performance setting that switches within seconds.
If anything, UP/DP will HELP your mileage by removing restriction in the exhaust. Also, an AccessPort will let you switch to economy mode on the fly (there's even a 7psi max 'economy' map available from Cobb).
you think UP/DP will help the gas mileage? hmm.. theoretically it makes sense, but my friend with a 05 wrx complains about his gas mileage. o, and will i pass emission if i have UP/DP+ sti TBE?
It depends.. if you're running all catless you'll probably fail a sniffer test, but as long as they're just reading codes off the port and you have engine management suppressing any fault codes you should be fine. The reason you'll find people complain about gas mileage after doing modzzzz is that they often go for a tune, get more power, drive harder, use more gas. PS: your Sti axleback isn't technically a TBE; TBE = turbo back exhaust, everything behind the turbo including downpipe.
they should not be sniffing your tail if they cant run it on the rollers. Just dont reset computer and immediately go for emmisions. mpg = you are in control of th throttle AFR is leaner = after mod and tune = better gas milleage you have to pay for the "FUN factor" you already have instant econ/power mode built in to your car Its called Throttle
Hey I thought your dad told you to get an econo car...why are you spending more money on the WRX? Is he letting you keep it? As for UP/DP, you will have to get a gutted UP and get a high-flow DP and you should be cool I think. I don't have mine tuned and with a catless UP and a high-flow cat DP I get about 300-310 miles to a full tank when I'm not really driving hard. That's pretty good I think.
stg2 not protuned just homebrew 340+ miles before gas light flickers avg 24+ MPG calculated using fillup and miles
As Ming mentioned earlier, you can have a 500whp car and still achieve a reasonable economy rate. Its all about how you drive and where you are driving
i change my mind!! guys, i changed my mind about my car. here is a list of things i REALLY want. ecutek helix dp gutted up suspension department is way too damn complicated, so im still researching. o and i want my car to look COMPLETELY stock (cant hide my axle-back) how much hp gain am i looking at from ecutek tune, helix dp and a gutted up?
i will sell you my ecutek'd ecu for $300 but I will need your ecu to put into my car. i will also be selling my invidia DP for $150 or if you want the whole Invidia turboback I will sell you it for $400.
quick question... i have everything stock except the axle-back, so would your DP fit perfectly or would i need to get it customized? damn ecutek ecu for $300 sounds SOOO good...
if you're talking 220-240 WHP range, could i hang with a stock 350Z or an STi with a decent launch? (i know that i must sound like an idiot, but i really want to beat a 350Z) how much would a 220-240 WHP be in terms of crank horsepower? I would imagine we lose a lot on whp cuz of the awd.. over 300 crank hp would be so so nice!
Well, I'd think you should be able to hang with a 350z no problem (probably beat it), at least in the low end, like in a quarter mile. Up in the higher gears a 350z would probably slowly walk away.
Stock STi would still take you most likely, although you would have the advantage off the line b/c of longer gears. I'd imagine the drivetrain loss is somewhere around 20%, you do the math
1/4 mile is all i need... dude, i dont know why i am so hung up on beating a guy that my friend knows. It's because he is rich and spoiled as hell, and thinks my car sucks, so i wanna show him something. (he was literally talking shit so..) And as for the race against a 06 rsx-s with intake and exhaust, can i beat him? (i suppose i can since i will hang with a Z). O AND I AM NOT STARTING A RACING THREAD or anything, im just really curious.