I'm going to pick up some parts for my car, can you guys take a look at this list, its what I want to buy and how much it costs. How much power do you think I could make with this setup? I have an 05 wrx with intake and catback exhaust. Please feel free to make any recommendations. kartboy shifter/bushings/knob - 150 cobb springs - 250 18G turbo (turbochargers.com) - 700 big tmic - ?? (thinking an ebay one?) injectors - please recommend walbro 255lph - 120 (where to buy?) uppipe/downpipe - please recommend I'd like to use Enginuity (http://www.enginuity.org) I have heard good things about it, but please, tell me your thoughts. Is it easy to find someone who can tune with this software? I'd like to get a cobb crank pulley too, but I'm not sure I can afford it. The link to the turbo is: http://www.turbochargers.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=21_34&products_id=453 not sure the difference between the 7cm model and 8cm model or which one would work best for me. Also I may go with the 20G, but I'm looking for recommendations. I'm more interested in a faster spool & response. thanks!!!
~Well as far as downpipes go, invidia is a great choice...they offer catted and catless. I'd imagine they make an up pipe too but since I have an 06 (catless uppipe) I haven't done the research. ~I'm not sure on the limits of the stock injectors or the fuel pump as far as hp goes...but I'd imagine that that 18g will push too much to need that. But I don't personally know. ~I found this about that turbo at http://www.ztechz.net/id4.html Mitsu turbos: Mitsubishi uses TD04, TD05, TD06, ...to designates turbo housing. For example, TD05H-16G 7cm^2 is a turbo with, * TD05 turbine housing with 'H' style turbine wheel. There are S, SH, H... style of turbine wheel/housing. * 16G compressor wheel. 16 is the size of the wheel, 1.83 inducer, 2.37 exducer. There is no direct correlation between MHI designation and actual physical size of the compressor wheel. G is the style of wheel (uneven height of blades). C, B, T style wheel's blades have the same height. Blades are equally spaced, but the number and pitch of the blades vary between models. * 8cm^2 is referring to exhaust discharge area in the turbine housing. More specifically, it is the smallest cross-sectional area of the scroll, turbine housing. Very similar to Garrett turbo's A/R. The smaller number means faster spool-up but more back pressure at higher rpm. Bigger number means longer spool up but less back pressure, thus more top end power. Greddy modifies Mitsu turbos. I don't have any published specs for Greddy turbos and i have not taken any time to measure them. It's possible some of turbos have different specs from Mistubishi. Also, both Greddy TD05 and TD06 use 3 bolt turbine flange where as Mistubishi's uses 4 bolt flanges. ~I've heard good things about the ebay TMIC aswell...probably the route I'll go. ~As for enginuity...i think it's great. Dan at Batlground reflashed mine. He's a great tuner. We ended up taking a basemap off of osecuroms.org and retuning it for my particular car. Here's a FAQ for Enginuity. http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/EnginuityAndReflashingFAQ
helix downpipes are very cheap u will need to upgrade injectors... i would expect you to require something around 800cc/min but verify this with your tuner before you buy... i have been very happy with deatschwerks and i would strongly recommend them (http://www.deatschwerks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=0_21_45&products_id=128)... they are relatively cheap, fit extremely well and have some of the fastest responses you can buy walbro fuel pumps locally (SOG) or from sakari (http://www.sakarimotorsports.com/sakari/product_info.php?cPath=23_35_418_420&products_id=186) for less than $120 here are some people running similar turbos on the EJ20: coolrex (18g) JJang12 (18g) EJRex (20g) u might wanna PM them and see how they like their setups... if you plan to run stock internals on the EJ20, i'd go with a 7cm housing... for piston ring longevity, your tune will have a boost taper up top anyway so a bigger housing that comes alive at high RPMs compromises too much in the lower band for marginal gains in the higher band.... but thats just my opinion
I see no suspension mods on there, what gives? Your list looks good. There are plenty of cheaper downpipes. All you need to look for is a bellmouth and you'll be good to go. Save some money, dont buy the KB shifter stuff yet, as it really isnt necessary. For the $150 you could get yourself a swaybar vf39 + meth + tmic = really nice pull in WOT 16G + meth + tmic = extremely nice pull in WOT 20G + meth + tmic = WOW Send a PM to coolrex, he's running the 18g still I think.
well I was planning on getting some cobb springs, I really dont have the money for coilovers, maybe I should do a front sway bar and springs instead of the shifter.
do you already have a rear sway...I'd do that first then eventually do the front one too, but the rear will be more noticeable. and just save up for coilovers, it'll be worth it.
I actually missed them when I read through your original post. For me, my first recommendations are always suspension. The car is plenty quick, but it lacks IMO the most with its terminal understeer & bodyroll.
Yes the rear sway bar will yield the most immediate improvement to wrx's horrible understeer (plowing) problems during sharp cornering. That's not to say ignore the front but do the rear first. There are also serveral other bars and braces that will stiffen the chassis up. And i think the only one to avoid is a front upper strut bar.
Cool, so I'll ger a rear sway bar first. Should I talk to dan@batlground about what turbo he would recommend for me? Also if I buy injectors, turbo, up&downpipe, fuel pump, tmic, and a sway bar what are my chances of finding any of this stuff used? I would probably rather buy the turbo new (and maybe tmic),but would like to find some deals on the other stuff if possible. any ideas on where to look for that stuff? (other than here, of course!!) thanks!!!!!!
Just follow the forums...nasoic and clubwrx always have stuff for sale. Used intercoolers aren't necessarily bad, but i'd go with new turbo, injectors, and fuel pump...definitely. Also there's craigslist.com and ebay of course. And just email dan at dan@batlground.com with what you want to do (like how much power you want...etc) and he'll get back to you with any recomendations he might have. Just be sure you give him as much info as possible, and it may take him more than a day to get back to you but he definitely will. Tell him Kevin Keegan told you to talk to him, dan is my business partner aswell.
At the risk of sounding "me too," I agree with Alex on the suspension stuff. I really find that I spend more time turning corners at 35-55 than accelerating from 35 to 70. I rarely go from 50 to 100. Others may disagree, but I have more fun going through a turn at the speed limit.
For me... I always do suspension first. (see mods in my sig.) I'd rather have an under powered car that can handle and stop, opposed to a beast that is sloppy and can't stop... just my $0.02. Oh... and if you get the shifter, I don't know how to install it :hsugh:
Cool thanks guys, I have emailed Dan@batlground but haven't heard back yet. I may go with an STi tmic, I'm not sure. How would you rate the ebay tmic vs. the STi tmic?
I would imagine the sti would fit alot better...but the ebay is alot bigger and the fitment is usually pretty ok. And like I said dan usually takes a bit to get to all the emails he gets. I'm usually at the shop 2-3 times a week...I'll try and remind him to look in to it. Drift season has just started, so all hell has broken loose.
You can always just go with suspension and a stage 2 Cobb, because I didn't see any mention of any ECU with all that turbo stuff. Stage 2 can definitely be fun, when you get bored of that, then go with bigger stuff. Swaybar and struts are probably the best place to start, and some camber bolts for a better alignment.
I want to go ahead and get the rear swaybar.. Do I need to get cobbs adjustable rear swaybar mount or do I only need the bar?
You need a big Whiteline bar (i.e. 26mm). Cobb is only 25mm and a lot more expensive. You don't need the special mount or endlinks, but they will help to sharpen your rear end movement. I've run on the stock mounts for a long time now and lots of autox's. If your stuck on Cobb, then go for it. I would spend the money you save from the Cobb bar and get the Whiteline endlinks also. Are you already running some sort of EM? I saw you were talking about turbos and stuff, but EM is more important to have than any of the other stuff. It won't run without it. Are you sure your not an autox'er?
I would buy all that stuff through either worldoneperformance.com, gruppe-s.com or jscspeed.com, I prefer worldone except call the number on there site and talk to Jonathan he's the sells manager and with big orders he hooks you up with a good deal on price. Haven't read every post on here but what about engine management is that something you have or planned for the future.
i'm on gruppe-s.com, the biggest rear sway bar i see on there is 24 mm, not 26 mm. Should I get the adjustable one?
you need to look for this model number from whiteline BSR36XXZ HERE IS THE LINK you can find it cheaper than that site..haven't looked though
here http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/whiteline-wrx-adjustable-heavy-duty-rear-sway-bar-pri-2321.html?reviews_id=86 Edit: this is a 24mm bar