So I put in the whiteline RSB Sunday. It went on just fine, and my girlfriend even helped! I re-checked and re-tightened everything (6 bolts total) Tuesday as the instructions recommend doing so. Then I started to notice a squeaking noise that occurred only in turning and going over small bumps. From my perspective in the driver's seat, it sounds like it was coming from the right rear. So I checked the 6 bolts again; the one that connects the right endlink to the bar was almost completely loose! The nut at the end of the bolt was almost all the way off! This it what it looked like Sunday, sorry, I was too worried about keeping it tight to take any more pics afterward. Now the squeak isn't nearly so bothersome as the idea that my bar might disconnect at anytime! Yes, this is my first time installing a rsb so if I did anything noobish, please point it out! Thanks!
I use air tools on that sort of thing but the nut may not be as tight as you think. Use a box end wrench tto see if the end link is spinning w/ the nut. The nut MUST be tighter than the end-links joint or every flex of the bar is a ratchet loosening effect on the nut. As far as the squeaking, check that the bar is well centered. many are off too far to one side and the bar can contact the body of the end link. Also urethane bushings do good w/ lithium grease for noise, proper seating of the bushing, and bushing life.
I put the provided white lithium grease on the inside of the new (yellow) bushings only. I didn't think putting the grease anywhere else would do much. I used a lot of it too, a considerable amount squished out and is on the sides of the bushings now, so I guess the extra is just supposed to work its way out like that. As far as the endlink goes, I did use a box end wrench on one side and ratchet on the other, just to make sure that the bolt and nut weren't just spinning. But I only had a medium sized ratchet wrench, so I'll get a breaker bar or a cheater and get some more leverage on those end-link bolts.
If I remember right the sway bar end link nuts are supposed to have little teeth on them to prevent this also. hmmmm
I thought about loctite, but what about when I want to put on new endlinks? Will loctite make it ridiculouls had to get the bolts off again?
I'm really thinking they're just not tight enough, I've never used loctite on a suspension part or anywhere it wasn't manufacturer specified.
I wouldn't see any sort of problem using locktite on suspension parts. I'd use just a little if it was really needed. Before that though I would try the impact wrench route...
Is it me or do I not see any washers? Every RSB I've installed has had washers between the bolts and swaybar
The service manual calls for 33ft/lbs of torque on the endlink bolts. I have Whiteline endlinks on my rear, and I torque to that. Whiteline doesn't spec a torque - they just say make it tight. The service manual does not show washers.
If it still comes loose with Loctite then there is the alternate jam nut option but there is something wrong if loctite and torque to specs dont work
OK, swaybar is off, I am going to lowe's to get torque wrench, washers and maybe replacement bolts that actually have enough threads on them. I will drive w/out the bar so I can determine for sure if the bar was the source of the noise. Be back in a bit with new tools and a lot more knowledge.
There are many different types of loctite threadlocker, from a little holding power to you're never gonna get that nut off. I use 242. http://www.loctite.us/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=19&layout=3 Bolt reusability is important in maintenance and repair work. Threadlockers with low to medium strength can be loosened without damage to bolts with ordinary tools. 222 Threadlocker Low Strength/Small Screw 242 Threadlocker Medium Strength 243 Threadlocker Oil Resistant/Medium Strength 246 Threadlocker High Temp./Medium Strength 266 Threadlocker High Temp./High Strength 294 Threadlocker High Temp, Wicking Grade 2432 Low Halogen, Low Sulfur 2440 Threadlocker Primerless/Medium Strength
got a torque wrench and some washers, will try loctite next as a last resort, if necessary. 33 ft/lbs, good thing I got the huge torque wrench, huh? hehe, they'll be frickin' tight now. Thanks for the help guys! -Matt
yeah, i was gonna say the same thing as calmnothing. i JUST put my whiteline RSB on last week and my whiteline provided washers are in between the nut and the sway bar. either yours are in the wrong place or u didn't install them. that would def. be a good reason for it coming loose....
washers are mainly to distribute the compress load and occasionally slows down corrosion. If im not mistaken the factory nut has a flange on the nut that does not require a washer
Yeah, I got a flange nut. Which is good because my RSB came with NO washers. I did go out and buy some washers, but there is barely enough thread left on the bolt to be safe as it it without the washers, see the original post's pics. If I did put washers on, they would push the flange nut to the very end of the bolts threads, which is no good. I did use a torque wrench set to 34 ft/lbs (Dacula dean says 33, another source Bug Sky WRX says 34) I figure a pound or two is nothing especially since the wrench is only guraneed to be within + or - 4%. I thought about getting a longer bolt so that I could put on a lock washer, but it made me uneasy to replace the oem bolt with a new, longer one, especially since the OEM was different than the other metric ones I found at the store (Lowe's, yeah I know I should go somewhere else). The threads on the oe bolt are larger in diameter than the smooth part of the bolt, whereas the bolts at Lowe's had the same diameter with the threads being incut into the bolt, therefor I did not want to switch out the bolt, although I may do it anyways when I get my endlinks!
I'm hoping that when I get new endlinks, there will be enough space for a washer. I'm thinking kartboy endlinks....
Mine is doing the same thing! Only problem is, I can only tighten it so far since my endlinks are the spherical bearings...
ok... I found the problem, but not sure how to fix it. Imagine your laying on the ground (on your stomach) looking under the rear of the car... My endlinks look like this: /-------------/. I know the bar should be centered... but what keeps it centered and not sliding around through the bushings? I get weird clunking noise coming from the rear when I go over bumps
When I re-installed mine, I tightened the endlinks down first, then the bolts on the mounts. I figure that way, the bar will move around in the mounts and somewhat center itself before I tighten down the mounts. The links look centered, not like you described above. They were never perfectly straight up and down, even with the stock bar on, so I expected a little tilt with the new rsb on. Any reason I should NOT get kartboy endlinks, I think I am going to order them tonight! Then hopefully room for washers!
I've seen some people use hose clamps on their sway bars to keep the sway bar from doing this exact thing. Not sure if it's a good idea or not, but it may be worth doing some searching on.
center the bar before tightening the two SB clamps that should solve the issue since you have spherical endlinks. There are tube clamps that comes in two halves and has a smooth square face that wont chew into your urethane bushing, and if you need them let me know
OK, re-checked today. Driver's side was still at torque spec. Passenger side had lossed very slightly. Re-torqued and applied threadlocker. Any suggesting on endlinks? I saw that noltecs are much cheaper than other brands, are they inferior or just a really good deal?
yeah thats my bad. i meant my whiteline endlinks came with bolts. and they were significantly beefier and perhaps slightly longer than the stockers. and the endlink kit is what had the washers i used.
Are any of the aftermarket endlinks narrower? In other words, will I have more threads and thus more room for a washer with any particular link? I know this is being really anal and might not even matter, but just amuse me, thanks.
well i think they are all beefier/wider. but they all should come with longer/beefier bolts to accomodate the width.
Threadlocker did the trick! The creaking sound is coming from a plastic fastener in the hatch area and it totally unrelated to my sway bar, thank god! Thanks to Wes for helping me find the source of the noise, and thanks to all who posted here with suggestions! Problem solved -Matt