So my question is going to be somewhat biased in response, but I’m open to all opinions. PDE Camber Plates will adjust camber, caster, and toe out with a few simple steps. But the choice of where to set them initially costs $69 to change and impacts settings later on. If I install them in the camber/caster position, set them to a neutral (recommended) position, then have a factory spec alignment set at the eccentric bolt. At the event, max negative camber/caster/toe could be around -3 degrees/4 degrees/out respectively. Or, I could initially set the plates to a positive position, then have the alignment shop bring it back down to factory spec. This could give me as much as -4 degrees/same/more out. Seems like a no brainer. But wait, the downside to the second option is that it’s going to give me a less caster for everyday driving, as the upper strut mount will be further forward than it is now. Moreover, to get any caster changes, I have to run a fairly hefty negative camber and toe out, as I have to go from forward, past stock, then finally to reward with the strut tops. Discuss:
Well, first step for me was twisting them so that you get caster. Then I maxed out the camber on the bolts and set the PDEs to neutral position. This way, if I adjust the PDEs I am improving upon the maxed out setup...seems logical to me.
I would set it so that your stock setup is zero toe. Then have it so your autox setup gives you the more negative camber, but only with a slight amount more of toe out. The caster may just be something you have to deal with, but it will rob you of some turn-in for those really shallow corners. Talk to AWD_Tiger, and see what his setup is. We had just installed his a few months ago and I know he autox's on them.
I actually havent auto-x'd on them yet. i run -2.5 camber for every day driving (~4 degrees of caster) I should be able to get about -3 camber when they are maxed out. I'll be going to another allignment some time soon because i am installing rear camber bolts. im thinking about reducing my negative camber to about -2, but first i need to figure out how much toe-out is good for auto-xing because i want 0 toe for daily driving.
I would say to set them up for max camber with the stock castor, even leaning to increasing castor. I've got Noltec plates so its a lot easier for me to play around with the orientation of the plates for maximizing castor/camber; the PDEs are a far superior design but do require a little bit more setup.
Ok here is what you do. 1. rotate the plates so get the good caster settings. 2. install the plates 3. Take it to Gran Turismo and tell Jeff you want the Matt Ball special. He will set the plates and then even them out with the bolts. Matt
Thanks guys. The reason I went with PDE is to get the caster option. So setting them in camber/caster is a given. As I was thinking, recommended install seems to have won. I don't know when I'd want that much negative camber (-4ish), and to get any caster change I'd need to max it out. I wanted to ask to be sure there wasn't a secret trick. Hopefully my camber/caster/toe results are as follows: -1.5/0/0 (daily driving) -3/3.5/out (race)
But I don't have race tires (nor the plans to buy them). I like to run the 200 tread wear types. Even still, I couldn't see me ever wanting much more than -3. Without the plates I was on the edge of a great AutoX setup. No excuses now I guess...
I like the Ingalls. They haven't slipped, and I don't think they will with the tabed washer. I could have gotten -3 out of them, but I stuck with just -2.5. That seemed aggressive enough without destroying my street tires too fast. I would also suggest a front sway bar if you don't already have one. This will improve your dynamic camber.
agreed... I know most people like camber bolts, but I felt camber plates are the only way to do it right. That and I wanted the caster options and quick changes. By the time I bought $40+ bolts and had the car aligned, I would have spent $100 to do it wrong. Plus the increased expense of tire wear of driving at -2.5 all the time... It's just worth it.
I wanted to ask that too, but that's a whole new can of worms. I'm almost clueless about track swaybar/strut/alignment settings. I haven't had my WRX on the track yet. Can't wait! I'm running Konis, Cobb sways, kartboy links, Eibach springs, PDEs, and 245s.
Toe out is a very touchy subject with Subaru people. Until you have a lot of track time under youre belt I would go with pretty much zero toe out. Maybe a 1\16th out in the front. No toe in the back for sure. I like Toe out in the back but I've also got 9000 track miles in a subaru. The car gets a little twitchy and it rotates fast so you have to have quick hands. Matt
Stock bolts do slip, but bolts with tabed washers (Ingalls and a few others) do not slip as frequently. In most cases a bolt slips due to improper torque specs.
The tabs don't really do anything, the big problem is that you now have a smaller bolt in the hole and it doesn't have as much clamping force. The reason stock bolts slip on my car is 1.7gs of cornering force. Matt
Direct from PDE. They may not have them in stock right now. In all honesty, it's hard to find a set. I paid $300 for mine, but they told me it was the last batch at that price. I've seen them for as much as $450... But holy dang do they work. My car did exactly what I wanted it to yesterday. I don't know what else I can do other than a set of R comps...
Black front WRXAtlanta thingy...? I could also try your super secret tire pressure setup, but that may make me too fast. I don't want to accidentally time warp.