What is the better deal? I hear they both are good when dealing with the stock diameter and the maf sensor? any pros or cons for these?
well i just bought the drop k&n 4 or 5 days ago. installed it in min's, and love it! i've heard no issues with the k&n. don't know about the spt. i got my air filter for $36 bucks at Advance Auto when they had that 25% sell on all air filters.
If I was you I would spend the money and go with the aps cold air intake. With the short ram intakes you pull in hot air of the engine.
^i've heard that many times. by taking the snorkle part out, does that help besides just making it louder? sorry, not trying to hijack the thread.
Its there for a few reasons: 1. Trapping water, preventing it from getting into the engine. 2. Intake Noise reduction. 3. Allows the cleaner cooler air from IN FRONT of the car to reach the engine (instead of the nasty warmer stuff from the fender well).
So do you think the k&n drop in is a waste of mula? I think if nothing eles you can clean it and not buy a filter all the time.
Most drop in filters are a waste. They usually let more dirt in the engine, and/or get the MAF dirty with the oil from the filter. Dyno testing on N/A Subies has resulted in ZERO gains going from a STOCK OE SUBARU filter to a K&N, Green, and then NO filter. Zero gains what so ever. However, I have not tested that on a Turbo car. I have been told there is a 5hp gain. But I'd rather have the dirt filtered out than have 5 more hp for a while.
You know i really never thought about pulling the filter oil in... Do you think reseting the Ecu with the change makes a difference?
Will...thanks for that info about the snorkle, and its reasons there. Those are REALLY important reasons as I will keep it in the car! Thanks again.
Guess I should have left it stock. boo.. now if i can just dig up the bolts and screws, i'm good. lol
If you do not have FMIC, I strongly recommend NOT to upgrade to any short ram intake style. I see high as 170F intake temp during traffic hour these days, and the temp will jump very quickly.
Found this on WRX Fanatics dot com, Maybe Will or SS can give some more info. "Intakes: The Mass Air Flow sensor (measures the amount of air going into the engine) on the WRX is very sensitive. It is designed and calibrated for the diameter of the stock intake piping, the way it's mounted on the piping, and the distance it is from the turbo inlet. Many of the aftermarket intakes for the WRX did not take this into consideration. Some of them have diameters that differ enough from stock to cause serious problems. The intake most well-known to cause problems is the AEM (short ram or CAI, doesn't matter). Not only does it cause the MAF reading to be off, but it causes erratic readings that make it IMPOSSIBLE to tune for. No tuner (Vishnu, Cobb, TurboXS, etc) will even touch a car with an AEM intake on it, period. So, avoid this one. Apparently they redesigned it for the new Legacy GT and it works fine. Now, even a properly designed intake may not make any power. Most people agree that the OEM intake with a good panel filter doesn't become any sort of restriction until at least 300+ hp. To begin with, your money is usually better spent elsewhere. Additionally, it is very important to get tuning if you get an intake. Even properly designed ones can alter the A/F ratio. As long as the readings are consistent, it's okay, as you can tune accurately for the changes. If you aren't prepared for tuning, you are taking a risk by putting an intake on your car. Good intakes currently are the SPT intake (a little expensive, but made by Subaru so it works great and it does make some power on most setups after certain modifications are already done, like exhaust and tuning, etc), K&N Typhoon, APS (make sure you get the OEM MAF diameter one unless you are getting custom tuning at the same time), and Cobb. A cheapo Ebay intake can blow your engine!!!"