Cross Drilled V.S. Slotted rotors?

Discussion in 'Modifications & DIY how-to' started by RoMe, Oct 14, 2007.

  1. RoMe

    RoMe Active Member

    Cross Drilled V.S. Slotted rotors? Whats the diff? Everyone knows the tiny rotors that come on the Linear 92x's and 2.5 RS's. Im looking to upgrade mine but whats the diff between the 2 rotors. I want to pair them
    with Hawk HPS's or Carbotech Bobcats anybody have experience with either and brakelines and fluids? I do "spirited driving" mountain runs and autoxing maybe. One the MTNS the brake peddle starts to fight me after a while my guess is due to the heat + tiny rotors + OEM pad right? Looking forward for everyones thoughts!!!!
     
  2. slowwrx

    slowwrx Supporting Member

    Drilled rotors crack so don't bother and unless you are doing track days the slotted rotors are just going to eat youre pads.

    Hawk HPS pads aren't any better than stock. The Bobcats are quite nice and Mike at Batlground can get you a nice deal on those.

    Matt
     
  3. Sparta

    Sparta Active Member

    I got drilled and slotted and I think 1 already cracked
     
  4. SubiNoobi

    SubiNoobi Supporting Member

    Don't bother with either cross-drilled or slotted if your main concern is FADE.
    If you want to counter brake fade, you could get:
    1. Better fluid
    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=159647
    2. Bigger rotors which will absorb and disperse more heat.
    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=368072
    3. Better pads will help too, almost forgot the obvious

    Cheaper ways are to get parts from WRX fronts, or LGT brakes.
    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1265631

    Find yourself some larger front rotors and I'll sell you my vented rear rotors. I can't use them if I want to stay in a reasonable class in Auto-X, plus fade isn't nearly as much an issue in the <60 seconds oyu are actually driving on an Auto-X course
     
  5. mmtasty

    mmtasty Active Member

    I'll take this one...

    ... HPS is a street pad. It's cool if you're doing street and autoX. If you're doing prolonged things that build heat (mountains/track) you'll need something with a higher temperature rating and supporting mods. The HP+s should be PERFECT for you. I use them all the time. If you're doing a lot of track days, you'll need two sets of pads, but I don't need them with my STi... Doesn't sound like you are. (Let us know when you need help with that... ) SS lines are a REALLY good idea for your car! What's going to happen is your pads will get really hot, boil the water trapped in your stock fluid, your rubber lines will expand, and you'll feel a really mushy pedal. Get better pads that work in higher temperatures (HP+), SS lines, FRESH Motul RBF600 fluid, and you'll be fine. If you out drive that we need to talk.

    Drilled rotors are a thing of the '80s. It was a way for gas to escape during breaking. It works a little, but leads to cracking. Don't ever buy drilled rotors... Slotted is the way to go if you need the bling. I have plain rotors with good pads, fluid, and lines and have no problems. Slots help expel heat and gases during hard stops. If your rotors are dead and you want a cheap upgrade it's cool. Otherwise, if you're modding your car spend money on pads, lines, and fluid. With those mods you can boil your hub grease and toast your wheel bearings before you get any fade. You'll need 400 AWHP and a CRAZY track first. When my pads eat my rotors I'm going with DBA 5000's, but that's a long time from now. Don't buy shit. When it comes to stopping you ONLY want the BEST.
     
  6. mmtasty

    mmtasty Active Member

    Will the H6 upgrade help him??? anyone know??? That's a cheap road to take if so...
     
  7. FACE

    FACE Active Member

    hawk HP plus bro and Ate super fluid!
     
  8. RoMe

    RoMe Active Member

    Somebody on the 92x site recommenced the Stoptech Bobcats and body use or familiar with these I think Ped mentioned them to me once. There a lil more in price that the HPS but are supposedly less dusty and quieter?
     
  9. RoMe

    RoMe Active Member

    Great advice!!!!
     
  10. Deke

    Deke Active Member

    From what I've heard, hp+ is not something you'd want on a daily driver. Excess dust and noise are not things I want to deal with on the car I drive to school/work in everyday.

    I don't have any experience with either, but just what I've heard from most others, HPS would be just fine for you situation.
     
  11. Rzoops

    Rzoops New Member

    95% of your daily driving around normal city roads is really easy on brake pads. The advantage of stock pads and something like the HPS is their initial cold bite. If you're driving down the interstate on cooled off pads and you need to make a sudden stop, you want that bite to be available

    With a track pad like the HP+, they need quite a bit of heat going through them to get their maximum initial stopping power. That's something that's GREAT for extended spirited driving, but potentially dangerous for daily driving. But they definitely squeal and dust quite a bit.

    If brake fade is your main concern, I would follow mmtasty's advice and try out some high-temp brake fluid like Motul RBF600 or ATE SuperBlue (just as nice, cheaper) and some quality stainless steel lines. If that doesn't significantly reduce the problem, then you should look into upgrading to a better pad. You'll have to be the judge between a pad like the HPS and something like the HP+. And also like mmtasty mentioned.. blank rotors should be your best bet, but if you absolutely must upgrade, slotted would be the way to go.

    Also, while we're on the subject of braking power, keep in mind that tires are one of the most important factors of braking as well. Grip works both ways - accelerating and braking :)
     
  12. mmtasty

    mmtasty Active Member

    they squeal like pigs (especially in reverse), but I get over it. I'd rather not worry about it. HP+ isn't a track pad. It's a really aggressive street pad. It's not bad. I'm happy.

    Dust??? You should be washing your car every week anyway, right?

    HPS is great for street and mild AutoX, but IIRC that wasn't the question... We're talking about how to beef up brakes, right? Lines and fluid will be nice, but you'll only overheat your factory/HPS pads. Maybe do the lines and fluid first and see if that does it. If not, add the pads. I don't know how hard you're driving.
     
  13. RoMe

    RoMe Active Member

    I'm just doing daily spirited driving, as far as "hard" driving allot of mountain runs and maybe some autox. My main concerns are of course stopping but I want something that does have a bite in the mountains and everyday driving, the OEM pads hold up surprisingly well up there I think its more of a issue with my OEM lines + fluid boiling. But after a few mountain runs on the brakes and my share of oh sh*t moments Ive been wanting to upgrade my brakes. I already bought the techna-fit lines and Motul BF but looking for brakes has been on my mind since I sick of seeing the lines and fluid sit on my shelf in the garage. I want to upgrade but I don't want to buy pads only to find out after install that wow these suck or wow theses are the same as my stock pads. Second HP+'s are great but I'm not sure that i could get use to hearing my brakes squeal or prepared for all that brake dust.

    I think Face said it once before but I just want to think about stopping and the car stops automatically! I think the 08 WRX's should have that feature :rofl:
     
  14. WJM

    WJM Banned

    Until you get pad fade (hard pedal, but no stop...which usually results in smoke rolling off the pads)...dont upgrade the pads.

    Most ppl dont run the stock pads hard enough to warrant upgrading.

    However, if you DO run them that hard...HPS and Bobcats will not do for you. You will need something better. The HP+ *might* get the job done...and the Panther Plus *might* get the job done.

    However, at that point you might want to consider a BBK. However, I'd still recommend going with a light grade of track pads. If the P+'s dont do it, you'll need the XP8's and maybe the XP10s.

    Remember...the bigger rotor/caliper you go...the less choice of wheels you get. The stock RS brakes (what you have) is more than capable of slowing that car down at track speeds for a whole day of use with the right pads/fluid and a set of SS lines.
     
  15. mmtasty

    mmtasty Active Member

    +1!!!

    Actually, they'll even work for racing/severe track duty use, but the heat range you'd be in will cause more problems and expenses than upgrading to a BBK. You'd only want to keep them to stay in a particular classification or taking a weight penalty.

    Eating a set of OEM rotors and wheel bearings in 100 miles < BBK. :wiggle:
     
  16. sleeper31204

    sleeper31204 Member

    funny feeling

    not really a feeling, but it fits in here.

    my front brakes make a ruff sound when braking, hard braking at that. it sounds like something is out of round, the sound isn't continuous, sounds in and out with the tire spinning or rolling, w/e :wiggle:.

    i thought about the rotor(s) being warped.

    -William...

    p.s. thanks for the help, i was looking at some slotted rotors to get soon, maybe Christmas. but after reading this, i may need to wait and start off with some light work on the front end. o yeah, and those pads i got came from auto zone, they may just need to be replaced, and whats the best fluid to get?

    and the front rotors have little heat cracks in them also.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2007

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