I changed my oil 500mi ago and checked my oil this morning, it was just above the L (cold) I check around and I don't see any leaks by the filter or oil plug. I go to check my oil again when i get gas this afternoon and i see this: the oil is still "wet" and i notice that the wire harness below it is a bit oily too. it never looked that way before (the first 5mos after i installed it) so, my question - is it possible to lose 1qt through the sender? keep in mind that the car was road tested/logged pretty hard right after the oil change (motul 5/30) so i know some of it would have been burned by the turbo. any help is appreciated
1 quart is ALOT to lose in 500miles. If it was leaking i would think you would see puddles on the ground unless its burning off before it hits the ground. More important question, does the car smoke, or smell of oil at anytime
Not sure what the exact cause is, but in light of recent events with my car, I would check to see if you are getting much blowby. It's unlikely since you are on the stock turbo, but wouldn't hurt to check anyway.
I mean LEAKING a qt of oil in 500 miles is going to do one of 2 things 1) Cause a very distinctive oil smell when its being burned off 2) Leave puddles under the car
take off your turbo inlet and check for oil maybe, see if the inside is coated with oil and check the amount of oil residue
Exactly. Time for another compression check. AND....check the oil level at each refuel, obviously. The only time I've seen Motul 'comsumed' is with a large leak (a 1qt loss would mean you see and smell it...1qt leak is HUGE) or something a-miss with the engine, being blowby/broken piston or a PCV system issue. If you've got 15k on the car, go ahead and change the PCV assembly...PCV problem usually relates to excessive oil in the intercooler/inlet pipe/turbo/intake manifold as long as everything else is ok. 11815AB711 is the part number. Its $34.76 list price.
^^I'll check it out. FYI: The last several broken piston cars I've done came in complaining of two things: 1. Rough idle. 2. Excessive oil consumption.
thanks for the help guys, the 07s have a lot of underbody coverage so it's hard to get a fix on things withough tearing all of it off but i poked around during lunch and i *think* i found a leak, it may just be the filter which was put on one full turn past contact (like the manual says) but maybe it wasn't enough. i'll get under it tonight. no rough idle that i can tell right now. and i've been datalogging since the new map, no knock events like before. but still that sender doesn't look good to me.
If you have enough blow-by, I would expect it to show up in your intercooler too. Since you have a TMIC, it would probably be easier to check inside the IC than to check inside the turbo inlet. Not sure about the exact reasons, but on Crawford's AOS page it says
well, that might just explain a lot there huh... and then coming from the sender dripping down below, i found this... will, i'm gonna give ya a call tomorrow if you don't mind
the external leak is nowhere near 1qt...thats more like 2oz's at MOST. the oil in the IC is on the higher side of normal...at which point I would sell a PCV junction...aka the partnumber I posted back up there. otherwise, call if you want.
when i look for documentation on STIS, should i be referring to pcv hose PDF or positive control solenoid valve PDF? or purge control solenoid valve? i did not find anything under Positive Crankcase Ventilation
I seriously doubt anything in the FSM will properly outline the R&R procedure of said part. When you get the thing in your hand, it'll be obvious.
See the T with the 3 hose clamps? The hose on the right that does a 90 and goes down to the block. In stock form, thats where the PCV junction block/hose assy is. It has a large hose that goes to the block, then the POS plastic peice with the PCV valve in it, then a small hose from it to the manifold under the T-body, then a med hose that goes from the top of the plastic peice to the inlet pipe....
awesome, thanks for your help... if i keep getting blow-by, should i invest in a good oil-catch solution?
I've got a local fab shop working up a price on a seperator for me, if we get enough people I bet I can get the price down well below the crawford part.
We were burning oil, and determined that we cracked a piston ringland: Thanks for your help today Mike (LiquidForce)!
Off the shelf STU map for autox, off the shelf Stage 2 for street. Cant remember if SS tuned it yet. Brian? According to SS, the OTS stage 2 for 2.0 WRX was running in the 11.2~11.5 range at WOT.
+1 for cust fab AOS, and you could prob add milo to that as well. i was talking to bob @ sog and he brought up a good point... we should get a list compiled of who's using what oil, what type of engine/turbo and how much they lose over a change interval. their driving styles, do they autoX/track how often and and prior damage using other oils ect... i know this comes up from time to time but it's not very orderly and i dunno if there's a sticky/database here for it yet.
Would dual catch cans stop the oil from reingested by the turbo ? AOS post turbo would that not cause even more lag and reduce responce
A AOS will not cause any lag. Dual catch cans are just dual items that don't do their job very well at all.
the pcv is in fact kaput... it was oil soaked when i disconnected it. unfortunately, i don't have "the noob time" it would take to pull the damn intake manifold in order to do the installation so i'm gonna give SOG a call for a price.
Add me to the list too. If the design is not proprietary, I would like to know how they will be baffling it.
I'm going to make another post about the Air Oil Seperator so that we can keep track of who wants one and keep this thread on track. Matt
no hidden agenda just a question and trying to educate myself where is the oil coming from ??? i assume through possibly the two sources - hence dual catch cans hopefully do a good job in oil separation prior to mixing with the intake air before the turbo is this custom AOS pre or post turbo ? There is no secret to AOS What it does is separating the oil from the Air. How efficient it does it depends on the design and the media used. If i were to design it i will use 3 chambers each reducing the size of the oil particles and lastly a fine mesh (sintered metal) but large enough surface that does not hinder air flow. BUt the above if can be achieved by a catch can - why not go the simple route ? If your catch can has a lot of oil then there is other things wrong with your car and need to fix that instead of building systems to reduce the problem just my 2c I dont have a race car so maybe race car needs the AOS
No worries, education is good, I don't really have an agenda either, I wasn't planning on making money off of these. The Oil is coming from the crankcase, which is caused by blow-by and agitation from the crank which is usually what causes the foaming. The foaming usually isn't a problem in Subaru's because of the oil pan design. The other source is the valve covers, there is a lot of stuff going on in there and its beating the oil to death and some of it is becoming air-born. Two catch cans can work but you either have to drain them regularly or you have to route it back into the intake which introduces oil into the intake tract which makes the air to fuel mixture prone to detonation, which is the main thing I was trying to avoid. With these motors tuned as highly as they are you can't afford to introduce another factor. I'm not sure what you mean, you can introduce the air back into the intake track if you like but I wouldn't. I was planning on running a remote mounted filter on mine. We agree, the design that we were talking about involved three chambers but we were considering 4, We also considered a clear 10 micron filter in line back to the crankcase. A regular compression check will let you know if anything is wrong with the car, I would rather have all my oil where it needs to be. These cars already have enough oiling problems without having a quart hiding in a catch can. My car wasn't a race car up until last week when I cut the door skins out of it for a cage. It has had a full interior etc for every event we have been to. Its always had a stock motor in it, its really pretty far removed from a race car. I feel like a AOS is the best option for me, it may not be for everybody. Matt Edit, Dang I thought this was the other thread
Dude, you dont need to pull the manifold. Its not hard. SOG will likely charge you $100 or more. Do you really want to spend that when it takes me 5 mins to install which translates to about 30~45 mins MAX for you to do when the car is 'warm'? Make sure NOT do to it when its hot off the street...raise the hood and let it sit for about 30 mins...pull the IC before you let it sit. Once the IC it out and its warm-cool...its really easy. The hardest part of the whole thing is the bottom clamp on the large hose under the plastic piece. With some fancy screwdriver work you can get it on w/little issues.
I know if you remove you oil dip stick after you have warmed up the motor and there is smoke down in the tube, you proly have a blown ringland as shown before.
okay, i'll give it a whack, yeah i tried to take the fancy clamp thing off when cold and what a bastard... i'll warm it up and give a try... thanks for the inspiration man that's just it... i'm not seeing or smelling smoke of any kind. but there's been plenty of oil in the TMIC and PCV.
:ddirty: yay, i did it! i couldn't find flat heads long enough at autozone but i bought three of those long needlenose pliers and got it knocked out pretty quickly. that bottom hose clamp was still a bastard. i've cleaned out the system and filter (which had an oil spot) and once that is dried/reoiled i'll crank it up. thanks will :bigthumb:
Hate to say it but you have broken the second ring land. No way your going to be burning that much oil in such a short time from a PCV problem.
I was kind of thinking the same thing but I didn't want to jump out there and say it until you changed the pcv. Thats a lot of oil for 500mi
WOT ranged from 10.8 to 11.4 with the Cobb OTS stage2 map, and the OTS stock map. I have been running both of these off and on for autoX and street. We will be getting an STU Protune and a conservative street map once we get this thing back up and running.