Okay my car has been a little down in power lately. Noticed a lot of carbon around the flex joint on my uppipe. I think it may be leaking but it's hard to tell and hard to hear with a running engine. Well I'm going EWG on the Sti motor so may as well get what I need for that now eh? Would there be any real benefit of going EWG on my 18g setup now? Would the car make more power after a retune?
Yes and yes,it should make more power after being re-tuned. This is, of course, assuming you can deal with the noise (which I wish I had ).
What is ewg? I too am going with an sti swap and want to get as much power as I can on the vf39 and protune
Just curious, how does an EWG net you more power on the same turbo? I would think the power would be the same but it would just help you control the amount of boost your turbo is making? I could see it maybe smoothing out your power cover but to actually make more power?
Actually you'll notice gains on any turbo with an EWG. Most of the guys setting records on TD04s are running EWG. Particularly you'll get gains in the upper revs and much better control overall everywhere in the powerband. Some people route the EWG pipe into compact motorcycle mufflers like Supertrapps, others route the pipe back into the DP. I've heard that gains from EWG are minimized by rerouting the WG pipe back into the DP since it creates turbulence but I've got no real experience on my end. Does anyone know whether its possible to run an IWG/EWG combo, like IWG for 10psi or less of boost and then EWG for more than that. Seems like a good compromise between street quietness and WOT performance. Or maybe a twin-cutout design with an electronic QTEC controller; route the WG back into the exhaust but have a cutout immediately thereafter so both pipes are essentially open straight pipes. To directly answer your question, I'd say if you're keeping the 18G then yes since lots of guys have issues controlling boost on 18Gs on both 2.0s and especially 2.5s. You'll gain power and never have to deal with boost creep ever again.
i love my ewg. mine dumps right under the car with just a strait pipe. its F'in loud! also mine doesn't get loud til around 16psi. from there on it just increases. if your not worried about being loud at wot then you wont have a problem with this. in daily driving it sounds like a normal suby except for the distinctive ewg flutter noise.
Hopefully finializing my deal on a 44mm UR EWG kit. Then ordering the 16psi spring per Doug's recommendation!
Judging from my break in tune results this week, I'd say the power loss is minimal at best. Here's mine:
I'd have to disagree. I've seen the dyno proofs of 5-10 hp loss and up to 20 tq loss. That's a bit in my book. However you have a fully built $7K engine so the diff may be minimal because your engine is pushing a LOT of air (worked over heads). On stock engine setups it's a bit more drastic. You have to to look at the big picture....not just your setup
Like I said, 5-10 hp is minimal IMHO. Especially when the noise is is GREATLY reduced and you don't have all of that soot coating the bottom of your car. I also think that the key is to plumb back into the DP far enough down stream to minimize the turbulence. I plumbed mine so that it would flow back in close to the same direction as the exhaust flow. Alot of them that I have seen "T" back into the DP which I could see being very turbulent.
I think he is on to something, as I saw one set up where the guy had before and after dyno results on only 1 hp and 2 ft/lb loss of power which could even have been attributed to the different runs on the dyno, different temps of the run, etc. What he did was actually have a small pipe that chased the main down pipe back about 4-5 feet before merging in. His theory was that as long as you are not re-entering the exhaust flow and creating turbulence right near the turbo like lots of the kits do, you will see minimal loss.
Because by bypassing more exhaust around the turbine you can bring the turbine back into a more efficient part of the map. That an on small turbine housings that come with bolt on turbo's the added flow that a larger EWG makes adds power. Usually we aren't talking about much 10hp or so.
New UR 44mm EWG will be arriving at my house tomorrow! Now to upgrade the meth nozzle so Doug can work his magic on the car! We should have a great comparison on tune day. My buddy Daniel has the Blouch Evo3 16g with meth and upgraded TMIC. It's gonna be close and a fun ride home!
Does anyone think the 3" bellmouth downpipe will hit my 44mm EWG? Gonna attempt install this weekend.
I think that I read somewhere that the UR EWG kit won't work with a bellmouth DP. But don't hold me to that. Call or email UR and ask for Darryl. He will be able to help you out and let you know what ever you need to know for sure.
i have the ur kit with tial 44mm ewg and it fits just fine with my invidia bell mouth dp. even with heat wrap it had an 1/8th inch clearance.
That may have been what I read about then. It was quite a while back when I read it. The way my luck runs, fitting most will not include the one that I happen to have...:hs:
although the grimm speed one is very pretty, i like the design of the ur one better cause its not just a t off of the upupipe. looks like it flows easier than others (note the size of the tube going from uppipe to the waste gate). just looks like it would cause less turbulence. ultimate racing grimm speed
really..hmmm. so all brands of 38mm wg tend to leak? Any downsides to running a 44mm on a smaller turbo such as a vf34?
I wouldn't say 'ALL' 38mm leak but the chances of them leaking are much higher. There's no downside to running a bigger WG. Actually it's all pros with better control and more air being able to be pushed out.
The Tial 38's run a 2-bolt flat flange. These have a HIGH tendency to leak when paired with a small UP flange. In certain applications where the 38 is bolted to a big housing, they are not that bad. The 44's, with the nice v-band clamps are AWESOME, and virtually bullet-proof. Siegel
thanks for the info guys. In my search of threads on nasoic, some people believe that the 38mm leak issue was because of a poor "paper" gasket that was supplied with earlier versions of the 38mm tial and now there is a metal gasket that solves the leak issue. Also I read (as you guys mentioned) that the 44mm is a v-band unit...thumbup. Many people also say that the 44mm vta sounds less annoying than the 38mm (its deeper).
I think the 44mm was a better choice for me as I'll be sporting either a HTA35r or a twin scroll 37r in the future.