Just curious who has a trued 100% Atmospheric BOV on to see if their car stalls like mine. If I am coming to a light and press my clutch in, my car will stall almost every time. Just seeing if this is something with my car or with my tune.
from what i noticed with mine, it would stall only if I made a really hard pull and then pulled to neutral ( so there was a ~6k rpm drop)...it seemed like it was about 75/25 run/stall. I think mine may have had something to do with the plugs, though.
I have a Forge 100% Atmospheric BOV that has been on my car for close to 4 years now. SS tuned my car with the BOV and I have never had any problems. No stalling or any issues at all. I also had the same Forge BOV on my 02 WRX for about 1 year before I totaled the car. When I initially bought the BOV for my 02, I had issues with the RPM climbing after pushing in the clutch and also had issues with the Engine shaking violently at idle. Rallyperformance.com (No Longer Exists) had on their website that the Forge BOV fixed those issues and sure enough just like they said, my BOV fixed both those issues. I never had those issues on my 05, but loved the sound of the BOV, so when I bought this car, I also bought another Forge BOV and haven't looked back since. I have a friend that has an Eclipse GSX with a BOV on and he told me when he shifts to neutral, he needs to blip the throttle to keep the car from stalling. He made it seem like that is normal, at least in the Eclipse world. If you want to try to get together sometime to swap BOVs and see what happens, just let me know.
I've heard it's due to the MAF...if you go standalone that uses throttle body sensors, it eliminates the problem. With a MAF, the ECU has already compensated fuel / timing for all the charged air, so when the BOV opens you get a dump of fuel causing the stall
It has a lot to do with the BOV you have installed also. I have seen that the softer ones are much more likely to exhibit this behavior than one with a decent spring or one that you can adjust. Like Sonny's car, his will stay open even when he starts getting back in the throttle a little bit!! It also stays open forever and vents a TON of air which throws the fueling for a serious loop. You can hear it and see it in the logs. I have also been in 420's car and it shows none of the above behavior and drives just fine. So I would say if you HAVE to have a BOV, get a good one that has a decent spring in it. If you already have one with a soft spring, shim it or try to increase the spring pressure some...just take it slow as to not increase it to the point where it won't open
I have APS 50/50 and haven't stalled so far. I put on an HKS SSQ for a few days to see how it ran and also never ran into the stall problem. I blew some flames, but that's going to happen with atmospheric with my 850s. I have a tune, but the APS was on during the tune. I would recommend tial as well for 100% atmospheric, but i love my APS 50/50. Not loud under normal conditions, but you know you have one under WOT. Just my 2 cents. The SSQ from HKS is decent, but pretty loud under any boost.
I had the 100% atmospheric Forged bov and was tuned by scott and i had the stalling issue but found that if i let the rpms get below about 3500 when stopping it would drop the rpm's but catch itself... I now have the recirc from forged and have no issues at all with idle..
I really like recirculating until you need to go atmospheric (rotated turbo kit with no provision for recirculating). I have heard nothing but good things about the Synapse bov's though. I know Jason (420 the moderator) really likes his Forge BOV. The Tial is ok as long as you get the appropriate spring for it. Subarus can see over 20 in/hg in vacuum. I think that is why there are some of these issues.
It seems like the tials have more problems than most, but I would say they release more air when they open than most
Tial with a stiff spring will have no stalling issues.. or you could run the GFB SV65 like I do which has more options for piston control with the valve.
so what is the absolute best BOV on the market. Im about to buy one and I dont want any issues from it and I might as well get the best one I can if Im gonna get one
If you are going to recirc but want the noice, I would get the APS 50/50. If youw ant a VTA BOV, I would go with Tial or Synapse. I would suggest going with a recirc and an intake if you just want to noise. Your stock BPV is good for just about any stock location turbo.
Stock. My modified stock BOV holds 26 psi of boost all day long with ZERO issues. Block off the return hose and you have 100% atmospheric. I'm going to be using it on the GT35r.
I've had my FORGE 100% bov for about 4 years with absolutely no problems and it doesn't sound obnoxious. They are the best IMO.
Yeah, forge is not the best recirc valve. I have heard bad things on the Subaru and VW/Audi side. My friends at APR did tests on the forge and found a lot of flaws. Plus I think it is a pretty known fact that the ebay clones and the real deal all come out of the same factory in China. If you are just getting it for noise, get an apx twin vent or stay stock with a short ram
I wanted something that doesn't leak above 20psi. I read a lot of things about how people had to increase the boost to make the same power because the stock valve was leaking.
Forge is great. It is rebuildable and comes with 3 different springs so you can adjust it right from the start to fit your needs. I left the standard spring in mine and like I said above, I have never had any issues. Also, the Forge doesn't sound like every Greddy, HKS, etc... BOV that you will see on other turbo cars. It has a nice distinct sound.
I'm using the modified stock BOV on my 2.0L and will use it on the 2.5L. It's been holding 26 psi forever.
my car did this when it was untuned but once i was tuned i've never had any problems..i have a greddy rs
More than likely it's the BOV itself. Many of them will crack open enough to vent with the slightest blip in vac/boost.
Have to agree with Coolrex, Ghost's car is running full atmospheric with no stalling, same for Upsidedowndesi's car. A lot is dependent on the tune as well, but if there is a mechanical problem there is no amount of tuning that can correct it.
my brother in law had this issue. he drives a 2008 spec.B. subaru ended up swapping out the ECU and seemed to fix it. it's still under warranty so it wasn't an issue for him. i believe SoG is who did the work.
So Sorry to bring this from the dead! My car is stalling like hell! It is driving me nuts!!! I have a tial 50mm bov. Should I try a stiffer spring? Im not sure which spring is in there but will update 2mor once i open it up. Also saw something about a neutral position sensor?? Could that be the culprit??
Yep motor still tired! but pulling hard as ever until in comes to a stop! lol The ap said between neg 10.5 and 12.5. Thats why i thought it could be the spring. But ill clean it all 2night them look for leaks.
Sometimes with the IAC, the port it pulls from gets clogged so may want to clean that out as well. I have close 130K on my 2.0L and was full of shit. Runs great now
Almost a whole day with no stalls. When I come to a quick stop it surges but didnt die today. I cleaned everything that i could think of! 2mor ill check all the vac lines again and see what i get.