Well it's about that time again to get my oil changed and I figured I'd best go ahead and decide what to get now. I know oil has been discussed plenty of times on here but there doesn't seem to be any kind of good consensus in those topics. Let me lay out what I'm looking for: -Affordable: not bargain basement crap, nor the most expensive stuff out there. Just something good for the money - Synthetic: switched over, figured I will stay - Findable at places like Autozone, etc. My engine is stock, I don't race it, and these days it spends a lot of time just cruising. So what kind of recommendations can I get?
Wirelessly posted (From Your Mom's House) what's wrong with using the same brand that's in the car now?
The "German Castrol" 0W-30 that Autozone carries is still highly regarded by many as one of the best "regular priced" synthetics you can buy... it is supposedly a true group IV oil that has given many Subaru owners great oil analysis reports. I've used it and it seemed fine, but right now I'm using Rotella 5W-40 synthetic. It's supposedly a good detergent oil with great lubrication qualities. Likewise, a lot of Subaru people have reported solid analysis reports from it. Before I got into Subarus I was a Mobile one user, but all the bad stories out there about the 5W30 have scared me away. Still not sure if the fears are truly validated, though.
+1 on German Castrol 0W-30 and Rotella 5W 40 Synthetic. If autozone does not have the Castrol on sale, I go to Wal Mart and pickup a gallon of the Rotella. Both seem to work great in my car. I also use the Pure One Filter for a Subaru H6 motor.
I run Motul 5W30 in mine and it's been going strong. I ran one change of Mobil 1 syn and immediately switched back because of the apparent difference.
I run Motul 5W30 in mine and it's been going strong. I ran one change of Mobil 1 syn and switched back after because of the apparent difference.
I use Pennzoil Platinum. 5 Qt jugs from Wall Mart for $20.00. It's full synthetic and has gotten good reviews on the Bob Is The Oil Guy forums. If you have any concern over warranty, you need to run the recommended viscosity oil. I sent SOA an email asking about using synthetic oil and they basically said that I could run conventional or synthetic, but I needed to stick to one or the other, and they emphasized that the recommended weight oil be used. IMHO, if your changing the oil at the factory recommended intervals, unless you just punish the car all the time, you do not need to spend the money on any of the "Boutique" oils (Amsoil, Redline, etc.) I do use the fancier oils for things like diff's and trannys, but I don't change those every three months of 3500 miles.
Rotella T 5w-40 from Wally World. I change it every 5K miles (and I'm a heavy meth user) and it has held up great in my car. My stock EJ205 ran for 158,000 miles before I pulled it. I thought the engine was blown but it isn't and found several other issues when I pulled it. My issues were 4 holes in intercooler piping and a couple of heat cracked vac hoses.
this is the worst question ever. you will get a NEVERENDING array of answers and they will ALL BE BIASED. just find a combination you're happy with by a good quality manufacturer and stick with it. PERIOD
I'm happy with Royal Purple. I tried Motul and can't justify the price for what you get. Having said that, the Royal Purple isn't much cheaper :rofl: I'm tempted to try the Rotella as I've heard great things about it and it's more competitively priced.
i cant believe that enough Motul for a motorcycle's oil change (w/filter) is almost $50!!! thats more than i EVER spent on the subaru and most people change their bike oil every 1000-3000 miles.
I use Castrol Syntec (regular, not german). $20 a jug at Wal-mart. Doesn't burn up like Mobil 1 and comes out looking good after 3 or 4k. I agree with Caffeinated, unless you torture your car with Auto-x or are just a really aggressive DD... Spending $7 and up per quart is a waste(JMO). Pick a known good brand, change after 3k..... repeat.
lol i have. just trying to keep on topic. regardless. just cuz you have the MOST EXPENSIVE oil doesnt mean much. look at coolrex running rotellaT. again back to my point, pick something you like/can afford and stick with it /THREAD
I have had no issues with mobil 1 but will go with rotella once I use the last of the mobil I got on a walmart special.
i burned mobil 1 and switched to rotella T and it stopped, then 2 months later the motor blew with the cars new motor. i mean....
you guys can argue this all day...the OP still has not stated what oil he is using and why he wants to change it.
Wolfplayer on IWSTi is playing with the recycled oils and having good success. Some food for thought....
Stay away from royal purple!!! I use mobile clean 5000 and change it every 3k. I usually add a bottle of lucus oil stabalizer along with it. i get everything form wally world
that stuff is like water. ive seen to many cars come in after using royal purple with diffs gone bad bearings spun over. royal purple claims you will gain 7 hp by using there oil, and ive seen dyno vids and charts proving this. the reason why you gain so much is that the oil is so thin that you have way less resistance of all the rotating parts. well, synthetic oils have smaller molecules and will burn quicker causing that boom boom pow.
i tried royal purple and my car burned that stuff and went through it like it was nothing. this may be looked at as opinionated but take it how you want
Are you...in your infinite wisdom...saying to stay away from synthetics? Can you change back to the dyno juice after running synthetics?
i have heard this hundreds of times as well. you could probly back down to a blend, at least thats also what i heard when the same question was asked....
there is nothing wrong with using synthetics, you just have to check your oil more often and keep it full. most people dont check there oil like they should. normal oil consumption is considered 1 qt in 1k miles, so just make sure to check and top off your oil between oil changes and you will be fine no matter what oil you use.
oh, i thought i remembered you saying you used royal purple. i have seen other diffs gone bad from royal purple though
lol this "wisdom" is from reading here and nasioc all day. nothing a normal member couldnt find on their own thru research and hours of boredom. ahh the joys of no job
found this: http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/motor_oil_consumption.htm (fifth paragraph) appears the king is correct, YIKES!!
As does mine. Can we just make a sticky of oils that we have all not had a problem with, then when someone asks this question we can refer them to there?
Car has some pennzoil synthetic in it now. Simply because at the time that was what I felt was the best I could find where I was. Thus I wanted opinions because I've never seen it recommended. Rotella seems to get a good many recommendations here and other places. Never seen it but I guess I'll go look around for it. Just curious why a couple on here are running 5w-40 and not 5w-30?
Good question, it all comes down to viscosity (oil's resistance to flow). 40w is a more viscous oil and as a result works better a the higher temperatures that we see here in Atlanta during the summer. In other words, the 40w will not break down as quickly as the 30w in the worst part of our summers. What does this translate to? Thinning oil = less lubrication for the motor, and once it thins past a certain point and or burns off lubrication ceases to exist. This is why you may see some owners run a 40w during the summer and a 30w in the winter. Rotella is available at most Wal-Marts with the truck/diesel oils.