i've heard about doing this without buying a kit for a long time..can someone tell what it does..where they are located and what to do to optimize power through them? for people like me that dont know the details about them lol
Remove your intake manifold, remove the tgv housing, get some sort of cutting tool and go to town hollowing it out. Also try to smooth off the walls of the housing. Then be sure to plug the holes where the flapper arms used to be by either tapping a bolt into it or jb weld. I used JB weld and after a year it is still holding up. Do not use silicone! Its pretty straight forward but time consuming. be sure to replace all gaskets too before you put them back in.
I have a set of sidefeed TGV's that have already been deleted and welded shut I will sell you for $125 straight up, no core so you can keep your stockers.
I was trying to find a better picture, but this is all I've got. The TGVs are what's between the intake manifold and the engine. As you can see from these, they're deleted...there's a gate valve in there you can take out. These also have the phenolic spacer, you can just see it between the bottom of the TGV and the top of the motor. Also to note, there's no proof (that I know of) deleting these adds any power. They're also a PITA unless you're taking them off for some other reason. Also, your's will not be black, mine are powder coated.
i know i've heard that they have to benefit..but it seems like they would to me..anyone have any pics of a stock tgv so i can see what parts to delete..and why do you have to have a tgv delete for certain turbo upgrades?
the tumbler valve will sticks out the side and will get in the way if you use a larger than stock inlet. Show me the dyno charts...
I made 420whp with the stock tgv housings. Many people with aftermarket turbos are only seeing a 5-10 HP gain. For tha mount of work that needs to be done to delete them and install, it is not worth it IMHO. I would still have stock TGV's if it wasnt for the fact that I went to a complete topfeed setup. I was willing to pay a shop to do the TGV delete and they talked me out of it saying just wait till I either had to IM off or changing out my shortblock.
I think the only benefit with going this route is for two reasons, better flow at a higher rpm range under boost and if going through the hassle gasket matching the intake manifold to the TGV's and TGV's to the intake ports on your heads. Those 5's and 10's do add up
it is, trust me i've done like 5. IMHO, its not worth it unless you're already gonna have the motor apart or you got a 3" intake turbo that you're swapping on that requires them to be deleted. but don't take everything apart JUST to do TGV deletes. that's dumb. and you could always buy some from someone already deleted or pay someone to delete yours, thats also a couple more options.
Wirelessly posted (From Your Mom's House) if you really think these will help you, buy the ones from integroid...otherwise, put aside 4 hours for grinding/smoothing; prepare to get metal shavings everywhere. I have done 2 of these.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1663677 Don't forget that it will cause your check engine light to come on. "The TGV CEL codes will throw your car into limp mode. This will limit boost/RPM seen by your vehicle." I'm pretty sure you can delete the codes with a cobb tuner
you can leave the rods in if you choose and it will NOT throw a code. but chances are if you are doing this mod anyways, then you have some sort of engine management already anyways and plan on getting a tune afterwards. at which point you are correct. cobb (or any EM) can turn that code off if you choose not to do the rods.
What's the point of going through the effort just to leave the rods in, and if the rest of the motor is stock, the delete would be a waste of time. Not knowing what you have now as far as mods, and if plan on going larger stock location turbo or rotated the TGV delete can wait till then. If you still want to go this route, start collecting the parts now and just do all of the swap at one time.
If you leave the rods in then you don't have to plug any holes up. Tricks the car into thinking everything is still ok in there. Besides the rods aren't going to add much resistance in there, they are rather thin. I've watched several of the people in this thread do this, and unless you have the right tools it's a lot of work for minimal gains until you go all out in there.
There is absolutely no point in doing this if you are not going to port the housings. I say either do it right or don't do it at all. It will take you AT LEAST half a day to do this if you have someone to help that has done it before. All of that work for 5-10hp on a big turbo?
whoa whoa whoa. this is what everyone jumps to when i say leave the rods in! you still pull them out and port the TGVs just as you would with any other TGV job. but if you dont have any way of closing up the holes, then you can slide the rods JUST THE RODS (not the flappers, DUH!) back thru the holes. the rods arent going to affect anything, they just prevent the code from being thrown