Well, I'm gonna be trying to install new rotors and pads with the help of my friend for the first time. I'll let y'all know how it goes. FYI, I found NASIOC's DIY thread helpful http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1430598 i basically got replacement parts. ATE PremiumOne Pads (Ceramic) Brembo Replacement Rotor (Style: Plain, Finish: Plain) Plain vented rotor
It shouldnt take you more than an hour. It is pretty easy....just make sure you have a c-clamp handy to push the piston of the caliper back in.
With the 2 piston fronts, you may have to go back and forth a couple of times to get them in enough. When you push one in the other comes out a bit. Also make sure you don't overflow the resivoir when you are pushing them back.
I've always used a piece of wood or the old pad to push in the piston. This keeps the pressure on it evenly displaced as you compress it.
You may also need a bolt to thread into one of the holes on the old rotor to get it to seperate from the hub.
Which you may borrow from the ABS sensor on the knuckle assembly IIRC. You may also want to use a rubber mallet and give the rotors a good whack to help loosen them from the hub.
That method works particularly well, even better in pair, and once you have the right size bolts, tag them for future re-use
i stole a bolt from the radiator shroud assembly to pop the back ones off. They were tricky for me and stuck. They have some kind of leaf spring that keeps them in place and i had to tug pretty hard and beat them with a rubber mallet.
You can also borrow them from the hold down bolt for the brake line. That's what I did the other day, and it worked like a charm.
i should have looked at your post and the ones after it more closely. so THAT'S what those holes are for. we thought it was something to let us get WD40 into it to help us separate the rotor from the hub. we pretty much just used brute force with a metal hammer to shock the rotor off (rotating the rotor so we could get a whack on all sides without hitting the shield.)
yeah. agreed. on the rear rotors it was harder to separate because (my guess) is that the drum brakes have a tighter friction fit on the rotor than dis brakes.
THANKS AGAIN! My friend who had a bunch of tools did the change today and it worked perfectly. 3 tools help make this go pretty fast. 1) impact wrench (makes taking off the lug nuts quite snappy.) 2) a ratchet with a nice long arm to help with the caliper bolts in the back. 3) a fairly large metal mallet/hammer (which might not have been needed if i paid attention to the posts about using some threaded bolts to separate the rotor from the hub.)