installing pads and rotors: first time

Discussion in 'Modifications & DIY how-to' started by awu72, May 6, 2010.

  1. awu72

    awu72 Member

    Well, I'm gonna be trying to install new rotors and pads with the help of my friend for the first time.

    I'll let y'all know how it goes. FYI, I found NASIOC's DIY thread helpful
    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1430598

    i basically got replacement parts.

    ATE PremiumOne Pads (Ceramic)
    Brembo Replacement Rotor (Style: Plain, Finish: Plain) Plain vented rotor
     
  2. integroid

    integroid Supporting Member

    It shouldnt take you more than an hour. It is pretty easy....just make sure you have a c-clamp handy to push the piston of the caliper back in.
     
  3. Davidwrx

    Davidwrx Member

    With the 2 piston fronts, you may have to go back and forth a couple of times to get them in enough. When you push one in the other comes out a bit. Also make sure you don't overflow the resivoir when you are pushing them back.
     
  4. C_wagginz

    C_wagginz Member

    I've always used a piece of wood or the old pad to push in the piston. This keeps the pressure on it evenly displaced as you compress it.
     
  5. Kokopelli

    Kokopelli Active Member

    You may also need a bolt to thread into one of the holes on the old rotor to get it to seperate from the hub.
     
  6. Alex

    Alex Community Founder Staff Member

    Which you may borrow from the ABS sensor on the knuckle assembly IIRC. You may also want to use a rubber mallet and give the rotors a good whack to help loosen them from the hub.
     
  7. bluedestiny

    bluedestiny Supporting Member

    That method works particularly well, even better in pair, and once you have the right size bolts, tag them for future re-use
     
  8. RamblinWRX

    RamblinWRX Member

    i stole a bolt from the radiator shroud assembly to pop the back ones off. They were tricky for me and stuck. They have some kind of leaf spring that keeps them in place and i had to tug pretty hard and beat them with a rubber mallet.
     
  9. C_wagginz

    C_wagginz Member

    You can also borrow them from the hold down bolt for the brake line. That's what I did the other day, and it worked like a charm.
     
  10. awu72

    awu72 Member

    thanks, we used the old pad with two c-clamps to compress it evenly. it worked like a charm.
     
  11. awu72

    awu72 Member

    i should have looked at your post and the ones after it more closely. so THAT'S what those holes are for. we thought it was something to let us get WD40 into it to help us separate the rotor from the hub.

    we pretty much just used brute force with a metal hammer to shock the rotor off (rotating the rotor so we could get a whack on all sides without hitting the shield.)
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2010
  12. awu72

    awu72 Member

    yeah. agreed. on the rear rotors it was harder to separate because (my guess) is that the drum brakes have a tighter friction fit on the rotor than dis brakes.
     
  13. awu72

    awu72 Member

    THANKS AGAIN!

    My friend who had a bunch of tools did the change today and it worked perfectly.

    3 tools help make this go pretty fast.

    1) impact wrench (makes taking off the lug nuts quite snappy.)
    2) a ratchet with a nice long arm to help with the caliper bolts in the back.
    3) a fairly large metal mallet/hammer (which might not have been needed if i paid attention to the posts about using some threaded bolts to separate the rotor from the hub.)
     
  14. C_wagginz

    C_wagginz Member

    Glad we could help out!
     

Share This Page