Just picked up a Killer B oil pick up tube. Im going to install it soon. I know it involves some disassembly obviously to get it installed. Anyone have any suggestions on what else I should replace while im there. Any bushings, mods, seals / gaskets, mounts. I know ill replace the oil pan gasket but any other suggestions. I do autox extensively so if there are any other suggestions let me know. Thanks
make sure you don't pull an mmtasty and leave a bolt or two on on the back side, and then mangle the oilpan that you were trying to reuse
Just take your time with it. The rear bolts are a PITA and may require tilting the engine. I had sockets slim enough to snake in there and fit. DO NOT USE a 12 pt socket....make sure you are using 6 pt sockets or else you will round the bolt out easily. Also when reinstalling the bolts it does not need to be he-manned on. Look up the tq spec...it isn't much. As for extra parts....many do Group-N engine mounts at the same time.
clean the area before you pull the pan. Last thing you want is a big greasy chunk of road grime fall into your oil pan as you're trying to install it back on.
I had to use the swivel socket things to get my pan off. The pan, btw, does not want to come off, even with the bolts out. We had to use a huge pry bar and go in through the wheel arches to get mine off. IIRC you just use fujibond as the gasket when putting it back on.
Correct......a little light prying (careful not to mar up the surface too much) and a rubber 5 lb mallet did the trick for me.
two cheap thick blade scrapers at each front corner and the pan will just pop off. last thing you want to do is gouge the gasket surface or bend the pan.
i don't think that would've done the trick for mine. I would also recommend removing all the old gasket material and replacing, so it wouldn't matter if you messed that up.
Definitely dont gouge up the block, I've seen way too much of that. Also the gasket is all silicone, so make sure you clean all the oil off the sealing surface so the silicone will stick
Definitely loosen the engine mount bolts and lift the engine about a couple of inches with an extra jack. It will help with the rear bolts. Seriously, I decided not to do this and spent 6 hours on trying to retap the two rear bolts b/c I didn't screw them in at the right angle. Plus you had to angle the oil pan to remove it and install. Such a pain!!! Lesson learned, trying to pass on the knowledge.
Materials and method of bonding. OEM is thin metal that is brazed on. VERY weak and very susceptable to vibration fatigue. Killer b is thick metal and is WELDED. Also has much beefier and more bracing to combat vibration fatigue.