Liltoua's Little Black Beast

In order to really keep any abuse from your tranny, you need to make sure to double clutch. No more granny shifting!

Also, time to go for an 06-07 6 speed swap.

 

Are you trying to quote fast and furious?

 

Lulzzz....

 

:slap: Stop please.

 

More like Blaze ruined it by making it obvious. Lol

 

More like

 

Update: So I took pictures of the car sitting in simple green and degreaser, but apparently my camera didn't have a memory card in it HAHA. I soaked the engine on the stand with simple green and degreaser and hosed it down today to take off as much grim as possible, looks alot better, but still dirty. We pulled off "ONE" of the heads today and here is how it looks.





Sorry ment to snap pictures of the short block but the motor is turned over and I can't turn it or all the oil will spill out. The heads seem to be in very good condition, along with the short block. I just gotta clean all that carbon build up, but everything is going well so far.

The only problem that we are running into with the other head is the hex cam bolt. That bolt seems to be seized in there. We tired EVERYTHING and that damn bolt wont budge! Do you guys have any recommendations? We tried breaker bar, air gun, impact gun and NOTHING seems to work. That's the only issue we are having from that other head to come off. Until we can get that bolt out, I can't do anything.

 

Those bolts can be a bitch. Mine broke 3 tools when we tried to break them loose. Try a bigger breaker bar lol

 

HAHA yea were trying all the torque we can. Saw a neat little timing belt trick that some people are using



Apparently they rig this up and turn the crack pulley bolt along with the cam gear bolt. I'm gonna give this a try tomorrow and see how it goes.

 

Looks like its finally happening!!

 

get a MAPP gas torch in the plumbing isle. It will be a yellow tank. DO NOT get propane, it doesn't get hot enough. Torch the bolt head for about 10 seconds then use 10mm Allen socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar to remove the bolt.

 

I herd about that method as well. Does it really work? If I can't get the timing belt trick to work, I will try that method. The good thing is that bolt hasn't stripped yet HAHA. Been using a heavy duty snap on tools to work on everything so wish me luck and keep those suggesting coming!

 

That one bolt gave me a fit the when I was redoing my engine. Broke 3 hex sockets. That bolt isn't too expensive.....as a last resort you can cut it off. Once you cut that head off the bolt you can take the bolt off with your fingers.

 

Yea that will be my last resort, cutting it. Gonna head down to the shop after work and see what I can do. Also gonna take off my TGV and take it down to AllPro and see if they can do deletes for me.

 

Do the delete's yourself. It's so easy.

 

Orly? I haven't even looked at the DIY for it yet. I'll read up on it and see if I'm confident enough to do it.

 

Update:

Finally got around to posting up pictures of the shortblock. I was in the process of cleaning it, so half of the pistons are clean haha. It's a PITA to clean this crap off and I eventually just gave up. In the process of reassembling everything back together. Just dropped off my TGV at AllPro so it will be done sometime next week. I also stopped by TopSpeed to talk about my setup so well see how this build will go. Right now waiting on wiring and just gotta reassemble everything and of course more parts

 

Update:

Finally picked up my TGV's from Allpro!!! Thanks to them and Brandon and Ryan!! Got the whole thing gutted out and they took off the sensors and blocked them off. I can finally start to reassemble the engine back and wait for more parts to come in. I'll take more pictures of parts as they come in. Here are the TGV's done by Allpro.

 

UPDATE

With school and work I don't have much time working on my car. Finally got around to swinging by the shop and reassembling everything. I bought the Grimmspeed 3mm Phenolic Thermal Manifold Spacer and installed them while I was reassembling the intake to the engine.

I figure I might as well do maintenance while the motor was out so I went ahead and bought the Gates Timing kit. Changed out all the idlers and water pump while I was at it just to be safe. I also bought the 160 degree thermostat instead of replacing it with an OEM one even though I know the OEM will be more than efficient enough LOL.

I hate doing Subaru timing. You have to sit there and individually count the teeth on the belt and it sucks! My friend at the shop and I were doing it and thought we had it down and thought we were good to go. Pulled the tension pin and rotated the crank and we were off by 1 tooth! We just called it a day and I gotta go back and we gotta redo the timing on that motor. After I get all this done it's just a matter of putting everything back together and waiting on more funds to come in for other parts.

 

Umm you don't count the teeth. You line up the white line on the belt itself with the timing marks on the cams and crank. Doing this with engine out is such a breeze. While in car is a little more frustrating. The belt will never line back up after rotating but all the timing marks on the crank and the cam gears should ALWAYS line back up with the marks on the rear timing covers.

Since you have pulled the tensioner pin make darn sure that you recompress it SLOWLY! I'm talking taking a c clamp and doing like a slow turn every 10 seconds. Else you can blow out the seal in it.

 

So I don't really need to follow this diagram?




I think the only reason I think I'm off because the white lines on the right cam covers are off alittle. They don't line up perfectly and looks to be off by 1 tooth. Yea when we originally did this on my N/A DOHC motor we had to compress my tensioner like 4 times, so I know all to well how to do that HAHA.

 

That diagram is right but if the lines are lining up you are good. Yeah the right side cams are a bear sometimes. You have to consider that when you tighten the belt it'll shift that cam slightly. Start at the crank then go to top left then bottom left. Keep that belt TIGHT. LEFT side should never move. Work way to the bottom right. Here's where it can get tricky because there is tension on those two gears. put the belt on both gears. I always put the belt on, then took the wrench and turned the bottom gear to where it would tighten the belt as I turned it and lined it up. Do the same for the top.

It most definately can be done solo but if you have a second person to hold that one cam for you it helps a ton.

 

Yea I'm defiantly off a little then. The two white lines don't match up vertically on the right cam covers. I'm gonna take it off again and run through it again with your steps because it was a real pain to try and get that belt on without the cams shifting and throwing everything off. Timing is one thing you don't want to screw up HAHA

 

just take your time with and think it through. But remember don't recompress that tensioner fast.

 

UPDATE:

More parts are rolling in. I got a good bit amount of stuff now. The only thing that I'm missing right now is a down-pipe and an exhaust. I don't know if I want to upgrade my turbo yet. I kind of want to feel how a stock WRX turbo feels like with my current mods and then set it up to a bigger turbo to appreciate the power before I go big. What are your thoughts on that? Here are the tubro's I'm looking at.

-Forced Performance HTa 68 (most likely this one)
or
-Blouch 16g Evo III

I know these two turbos are not in the same category, but I don't know if I want to sacrifice lag for power. My target power is 300 without shredding my transmission into pieces. I know i'll defiantly hit my target with the HTA68 with less work, but I don't want the lag. I love the power bands of the 16g EVO III, but it will have to be pushed a lot more to meet my goal. Any thoughts?

Here is a picture of my collection



Also no one want's to buy my adapters so I just threw them on for kicks and giggles. Probably not going to run these because the fronts are too much unless I cut the flares HAHA.

 

The blouch is a more reliable turbo. FP turbos tend to crap on ya. And that HTA will be laggy on the 2.0L. 300hp on pump gas with insane spool can be done on the blouch.

 

I know it's possible, but do you think my tranny can hold that power without blowing up? I'm going to have to run more boost to hit my target. Maybe I'll ponder on this more.

 

It all depends on how you drive. My 5 speed held up for a year with 340 tq and lots of mountain runs and occasional launches before it finally broke making sharp left hand turn. Kokopelli had about 500hp on his stock 5 speed and I've seen people break them with stock power. It's all in how you drive it.

 

I had 350hp 320tq for 80K miles on the stock 5 speed and almost 500 drag passes with a 6 puck clutch.

But your stock trans is the RS trans.....just be ready for it to go.

 

Yea I shift like a grandma. I know my transmission is bad so I always baby it. That might not be the case when I swap HAHA. I'm already bracing myself for the tranny to go out, but I would love to enjoy it as long as I can.

Also I herd the USDM 5 spds got progressively better as the years went on, so that would put my 5 spd in the bottom of the list LOL.

 

Oh yea got a question for anyone who can answer this. My swap didn't come with the stock DP so I never got the rear 02 sensor. I was reading up and I read that the front 02 sensor does most of the reading, so would it be safe for me just just buy a Wideband and run it thorough the rear 02 sensor location?

 

HAHA I was looking at that post awhile back. I think I'm going to keep my 4.11 tranny for now and just see what I want to do with it later down the road. 6 spd is defiantly a dream of mines, but well see when that time comes.

 

Catless? I've heard many people claim that it is way too far rearward to mount a wideband. I have also seen many people fighting for it as well, saying if there is a difference it is only tiny...I also know that people get tuned with tailpipe widebands, albeit it is more than likely designed to be further back and you should be able to compensate any difference by not taking the numbers at face value.

With that said, my wideband is mounted there and I went with
http://www.plxdevices.com/wideband.php
which is very easily hooked up to simulate the stock signal for the rear o2 sensor. Here is an entire thread of people trying to prove you shouldn't just remove it altogether: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/cobb-street-tuner/54293-do-not-remove-your-rear-o2-sensor.html

 

Yea it's going to be a catless downpipe.

Thanks Bixs for the info. Read through it all. It seems like alot of those guys are having issues with pulling the rear 02 to run a wideband. If anything I'll ask Dough at topseed about it. I would rather spend $200 on a wideband then $200 on a stock 02 sensor.

 

wut

 

Alright, just to reiterate I am running the wideband with it simulating the voltage of the stock one and haven't had a problem/noticed anything changing unnecessarily. A few people at the end of the thread reported everything ok when running a wideband with sim.

 

Yea I might just go with the same wideband as you then. I was also looking at the Innovate LC-1 as well. I would much rather spend that money for something that also benefits me lol

 

The rear o2 is not a critical o2 but without it, you will throw a CEL unless you have a defeater. However the ECU uses that rear o2 to stabilize fuel trims. When my rear o2 died I could see the fuel swing from stoic to rich for extended amounts of time until the throttle was hit. It was enough to decrease my mpg 1-1.5 mpg. Over time that will pay for a new rear o2.

I had the Innovate mounted just behind my rear o2 and it worked just fine.

 

So should I just invest in a rear 02 sensor? Does it matter if I get a tuner to clear the code and tune for it?

 

Your call but you dont really tune for the rear o2

 

:wavey:

 

You are running a wideband and simulating the rear o2 with that wideband. What a perfectly good waste of a wideband. Cheaper to just get the rear o2.

Just saying.....

 

Right, because I have a functioning wideband as well as not messing with how the ecu is calculating everything with the rear o2. I don't think you're reading it right/understanding correctly. I have 1 sensor, the wideband instead of having the wideband + stock sensor. Not sure where your logic is coming from if you do actually understand, feel free to try to explain.

There's a control box that all this is hooked up to, it is not just a simple sensor. Yet it cost the same

 

Oh I see what you are saying. You have the wideband in the rear o2 sensor hole but the rear o2 sensor is plugged/spliced into a simulator box.

I have 2 of those simulator boxes if anyone wants to buy them $60 shipped (shameless plug). I was working on getting the dual rear o2's on the M3 working and sold the car before I finished it.

 

UPDATE

Finally got a turbo crossmember. Can anyone verify that it's a turbo crossmember LOL. I can't tell because I've never seen one so I assume that it is. With this I can finally start my engine pull. I'm going to borrow a hoist from a good friend of mines and hopefully start the pull this weekend. Could take me a couple days because I work on the week nights as well. Busting my balls trying to fund this damn swap lol. I can't wait to get this sucker in.



Also in order to make my STI TMIC line up with my stock brackets, I had to order some silicon hoses that were alittle bit longer so that it would line up properly. I also had to get a longer 90 degree hose from the y-pipe to the turbo so that it would connect. I read that it comes up short when swapping out the TMIC. Might as well do it now so I don't have to wait for parts.



Alright now sorry for the newbness, but I love taking apart stuff, but I always forget where they go HAHA. I was prepping all my stuff and stumbled upon this line. I want to say that it goes under the intake manifold, but I could be wrong. It really sucks because I already torqued down all the bolts on the intake manifold and I'm pretty sure that this line goes under the intake manifold. Can anyone confirm this? How is it positioned?

 

Yea I just googled it and it looks like I'm in good shape. Now the problem now is where the hell does that line go, or maybe I picked up a random line HAHA