This is a project we have been working on for my personal car. Its a test bed for a couple of services and parts we intend offer assuming that testing goes well. Ill try and share as many of the specs and as much of the testing process as I can, obviously there are certain things we want to be able to share since we won't to protect our intellectual property. This engine will be driven on the street as well as tracked extensively. The goal is a wide usable power curve. Goals 650 whp E85 400+hp conservative 93 octane tune 9500rpm capable 3500-4000rpms of usable power flatter torque curve NO AVCS Parts EJ22T Closed Deck Block Custom Billet Crankshaft Custom BRED 300M I-Beam Rods (+6mm) Custom BRED 10.5 to 1 Pistons Mahle Motorsports (Vandervell) WRC Bearings Custom Total Seal Rings ARP Case Bolts ARP 625+ Rod Bolts (Fel-Pro Head Gaskets) Version 8 JDM Heads (USDM Sensors) Custom Cam Gears GSC S3 Cams Ferrea +1mm Valves Ferrea Endurance Valve Springs Ferrea Titanium Retainers Ferrea Copper Alloy Exhaust Valve Guides Ferrea Manganese Bronze Intake Valve Guides Ferrea Viton Valve Stem Seals Moldstar 90 valve seats. More Details, Ill add things here as people ask them in the thread. Car is a 03 WRX with a complete 04 STI harness in it. The car will be tuned on both the factory ecu and a AEM. All the parts have been ordered and we are still 6 weeks out on the rods. Ill post updates as we get a chance to work on it. The Block is a EJ22t Block from a early 90s Legacy Turbo. The only thing done to the block in its current state is the Powder Coating. The powder coating serves a dual purpose, first its easy to clean, dirt and grime don't stick to it and it looks good, second if you have any oil leaks you can put a UV dye in the oil and the black makes it very easy to find with a black light. From this view you can see that there is paint where the knock sensor mounts and on a few other bolt holes that get used, we will be putting it back on the mill and facing all of those before assembly . Its very important for the knock sensor to have a flat clean surface to bolt to. This picture gives you a good idea of why the EJ22T block is so sought after, the deck surface is closed and the actual cylinder liners are almost twice as thick. Ill try and get some pictures of the actual liner later this week. Also at the bottom of the cylinder on the main webs you can see where the oil squirters thread in. If this was a drag engine we would probably eliminate these as there is no need to cool the piston for passes that short. However the pistons were designed with the use of the squirter, sometimes we use a slot in the rod to spray oil onto the piston but with the oil squirters there is no need. EDIT 2/16/12 Got a little bit of work done on the block today. There isn't a lot I can do since none of the parts are here yet except to begin all the prep work. Today I started facing all the bolt holes so that all the brackets will sit flat and all the seals and washers will have a clean surface to seal against. I still have a few more spots that need to be faced but I didn't have a bit with a long enough face so Ill pick one up tomorrow from Grainger. Here are a couple of pictures so you can see what I'm talking about. This picture shows one of the holes for the oil galley plugs with the paint still on it. Above is the same picture but after facing the hole to get it flat and give the aluminum washer a good surface to seal against. Above is the Knock Sensor Seat being machined. Its important that this is flat and clean when the sensor is installed. Knock Sensor Seat finish machined Drivers Side Finished Front of the Block almost finished Update 2/18/12 Get ready for a super boring update, Some of these pictures I'm posting not because they are cool to look at but because its shows the detail that goes into a built engine. Some of these are not necessarily things that your machine shop should be doing but they are things you should be doing. The following pictures represent a couple of hours of tapping and surface prep. This is the head stud holes being chased, do not use a tap for this, use a chase, you aren't trying to remove any material. Got to run Ill add some more later today. Update 2/19/12 Some more semi boring stuff and the start of something new for us. First here are some of the reasons you don't pry your block apart. The reason this is getting used in my build is because I can't send this out to a customer. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAEok/cc4tnm5Jnb4/s647/Block+Damage+002.JPG Ok now for some more interesting stuff. Below you can see where part of the aluminum at the top of the cylinder has been burnt away. I think there was probably some kind of factory defect that left a void in the casing here and over time detonation created a hot spot and burnt more of it out. Since this problem exist and I have to fix it somehow, I'm considering installing a bronze cylinder bush like the fine folks at Roger Clark Motorsports have done on their Gobstopper car. I'm still doing research on the type of bronze used, the process used to install it, the benefits, and the interference that is required to keep it in place. There is very little information available on the net about this, I know that prodrive does it on at least the older WRC engines but I can't find anything about it in reference to the later versions. Here is a picture of what RCM does to their engines, I would consider buying the rings direct from them but my understanding is they only have them in one size and its for a 2.0 bore. I have found a company that can build me the rings in the sizes I need but first I need a better understanding of what they actually do. Update:4-5 We had a slight hold up with the pistons and rods. To get the compression ratio I wanted we had to dome the piston slightly. In order to be safe we needed to finish reworking the combustion chambers on the heads so that the chamber can be scanned. We want to be sure we aren't going to run into any issues.
If one appears with a proper setup for a Subaru that would be fantastic, we have quite a few camshafts we would like to test.
I would say that I'm most likely going to have somewhere between 12 and 15k in this one. Obviously a lot of the parts going in this one are even overkill for the 650hp level, The rods for example are around $1500, I could easily get away with a set of rods that are 650-700 dollars but they would be more than 100 grams heavier per rod, that's almost a pound of reciprocating weight.
Its actually very little work to clean the block up and powder coat it, however after powder coating there is about 4 to 5 hour of cleaning the sand out and facing all the bolt holes so it isn't very economical. We have done it for two customers now and honestly we don't charge enough for it. The next block Ill be posting up is powder coated a silver metallic from a distance it almost looks factory. All of the accessories on it will be an electric pink metallic. Should be very cool looking. Matt
You have to run a pretty large turbo to hold the power up at 9500rpms. This car is most likely going back to a low mount turbo setup with a T4 turbo housing.
Working on getting a few more parts in, the rings for the top of the cylinders are next. I may have some more updates, Ill have to go back through my pictures tonight. We did some work on the heads. I think I have pictures of the machine work on the heads.
Bump Updated with this Update:4-5 We had a slight hold up with the pistons and rods. To get the compression ratio I wanted we had to dome the piston slightly. In order to be safe we needed to finish reworking the combustion chambers on the heads so that the chamber can be scanned. We want to be sure we aren't going to run into any issues.