Good news, I just got to the first test drive of my swap and I encountered a problem with the brakes. The pedal was nice an stiff, only 2 inches or so before it was solid. However, no large response from the brakes. The car stopped sure, but not at all like it should. After some head scratching I called up a locally renowned shop and the owner said the master cylinder had air in it. About 2 hours and a youtube video later, the master cylinder was back in the car. Same problem, no difference. So what's the issue? Did I not get all the air out of the master cylinder, is there some issue with the cylinder itself? 2005 STi Brembos New stoptech pads New OEM rotors Sti hardlines goodridge SS lines Please help me out here. TL;DR - Solid brake pedal, car breaks like crap Thanks, Reed
if you just put them on it may take a few days of hard burn in stops before the start to react the way you want. iv put 4 new rotors and pads on before and the car would bearly stop before a good burn in
disagree. when you bed new pads, you may hear some grinding noises for the first couple hours, but it will never feel like it's not grabbing sufficiently. All you're doing is mating the pad surface to the rotor, the clamping force should remain constant. How does the fluid level look - was there a change before / after fixing the MC? I know it's a stupid suggestion, but did you bleed the brakes in the correct order?
do you have the 05 STI ABS pump and proportioning valve installed? How about the brake booster and MC plus the vacuum line with check valve? try to bleed the lines again but use a vacuum pump at the caliper. the ABS pump will sometimes cause issues at first so...
05 STI abs pump, yes and the valve yes, assuming that is the one on the passenger strut tower. I'll drop by harbor freight and pick up a vacuum pump. I didn't pay close attention because I had the master cylinder out on a table and then back in the car. And yes, I did bleed in them in the right order. Longest lines to shortest lines.
Right Front -> Left Rear -> Left Front -> Right Rear. Brembo calipers have two bleeding nipples as you can see, an inside and and outside. Do the inside first.
Oh so I DID do it wrong. Hopefully that can help. Also, when you say insides first, do you mean bleed them until no bubbles and then do the outside until no bubbles?
I don't think mines was as bad as yours, but when I was reading it up some people say that you need to bleed the ABS system. One way to do it is to just lock up and make your ABS kick in. How did you bleed your MC?
I took it off of the booster and put in in a vise. Then I put two bleed nipples with hoses going into the reservoir and then, with a phillips head, pumped it about 40 times, until there we no air bubbles and then put it back in the car. I'll see if I can get it to kick in tomorrow, although that may be a task with brakes that barely work and a small parking lot I never even got ABS to kick in on my 05 sti! Gotcha. I also read up on pad bedding in. Is this what could be contributing to my issue? I feel like even though they are still brand new, they should still bite more than they do. I'll try everything tomorrow.
no. bedding pads will not increase / decrease braking performance, it will only make the process seem a bit smoother. bleed the lines, my guess is still in there. It's a closed system, you can't really have a 'fuckup' in there. if something's wrong, it should be easily diagnosable
Its not common for this to happen however iv worked in a brake shop for over 6 years and every once in a while we would have one that we would put 4 new rotors on and it seemed like it didnt want to stop until after a few hard bedend test drives. like i said its rare but it does happen.
hey folks, im having a simlar issue where the cars got a vibration and pulling right when i brake. i know nothing about brakes, so i was going to take it somewhere to get it checked. does anyone know a good brake shop? it hard for me to get to a dealer or allpro on the weekend. thanks.
Pulling to one side means you got a jammed piston in your calipers, vibration under braking is a warped rotor. If vibration comes through steering wheel its the front, if you feel it in your butt(how nasty does that sound lol) it is in the back. If you wanna learn how to do them yourself I'll be glad to help.
OP make sure the line going from the intake to the brake booster isnt kinked. I had that problem and the first pump had good bite but any subsequent pump had little to no bite