2013 STI Rotated Turbo Project

Summit Racing is in McDonough down 75 south

Barnett off Memorial in ATL would be better though

 

They are pretty good about shipping too.

I will be making a trip down to Summit tomorrow morning if you want to place an order and have me pick it up. PM me because you will have to use my name

 

I think I have everything I need actually, oil drain, oil supply from P&L, avcs replacement lines, tigwerks AN adapter for oil drain, and both coolant lines on the way.

 

ait pigtail 12102620 or 1P1016 or PT307 or HP4420 found at autozone special order, or the PT307 is a AC delco number so any GM dealer, or rock auto

AIT sensor ACR-12V-3 (stamped on sensor) GM part number is 5744430 which can be cross referenced on autozone or rock auto.

I think they are about $15 each. Bung will have to be sourced but that will also depend on what material your I/C pipes are.

Did you ever do an AOS?

I know I am making the lines for my turbo now and had to source -8 lines to fit the crawford aos. I am going cheapy and just using the silicone rubber hose with push lock fittings since I only have AN fittings on one end of each hose.

I have had to search a little harder for the M14x1.5 to -8 adapters for the water lines.

Also consider running a oil filter in line to the turbo. Since I cannot use the P&L line on the WRX heads I am making 2x -4 sections with either an FP inline filter or a peterson 700 filter to save the turbo.


EDIT:

Kelly can make you an intake the hard thing will be knowing the routing. I know mine hits the coolant tank on the manifold so I have to move it or buy his fancy pants one.

or

KStech has a bunch of random sized intakes and routings that may work.

Maybe buy the filter and clamp it to the turbo until you get everything where you want it in the bay. I may be selling my AEM 4" filter to be lame and get a different color one.

 

I should be able to keep the banjo screen and not need a filter right?
Also what size restricter do I want on this turbo for the oil feed flange. I got one that is supposedly the proper size for it but I want to double check.

 

You can keep the banjo screen. Its just not serviceable, its small and can clog and its also hard to get to. I'm just a little over cautious with my new gtx turbo after having my blouch rebuilt twice in the 1000 mi I used it.

FP says to give their journal bearings all the oil you can, other places I have read .006" if memory serves me.

.0035 for small GT turbos
.006 for GT40 and larger as well as T3/T4

 

run an inline filter and my understanding is no restriction needed

 

Is this too restrictive? It's what I have on there now.
Supposedly it's for this type of turbo / CHRA.

 

I think journal bearing turbos you want to have no restrictions on. Only ball bearing turbos need a restrictor in the oil feed line

 

Check with element tuning, Phil ran his 65 turbo rotated and it looks like yours, I think it is essentially a journal bearing 35r

Tell him you bought a used kit that was incomplete. He offered very few rotated kits but I am almost positive they were JB.

I also read something about subaru oil pressure being high so it may need a restrictor, thats why I recommend asking Phil

 

it's the right one, got it confirmed.

b reel what is the thread pitch and hose size I need for my compressor housing boost nipple? You had one in your original pics but took it out. I need to get one to put back in.

 

It is either 1/8" NPT or 1/4" NPT to a barb. You can find them at any Ace Hardware and maybe Lowes/HD.

 

all the fittings are 1/8 NPT

 

Mock up

 

Just ordered this:
Fast-Response GM Delphi / Packard Intake Air Temperature Sensor ( IAT / MAT / ACT ) or Manifold Air Temperature Sensor # 25036751 - 25037225 - 25037034 *RECOMMENDED*

Also got a 37" extension which I'll use to make my connection into the stock MAF harness.

Is it the same color wires through the years or has it changed? Anyone know which two on the stock MAF plug are for the stock IAT?

 

you use an accessport?

if so you can just monitor IAT on there to determine which two wires (depin one and the temp will drop to -37). If I recall it is the first or last pair on the plug just can't remember which side.

 

Updated OP with new parts list.

Just need to get a FMIC, boost tubes, AFR bung welded in the downpipe, a fuel pump and a TiAL 11psi spring BOV.
Probably going with an ETS FMIC. That will probably be the most expensive part of this entire project. Sickening.....

 

Steve will be tuning the car with me. It will be tuned open source for speed density. Throttle position will = throttle blade angle (no more goofy DBW behavior).

I am getting close. About to pull the trigger on the FMIC and grab a TiAL Q w/11psi spring. Everyone sais 11psi on subaru's is perfect. I can always get a 10 if I don't draw enough vac at idle, but I doubt i'll need to.

I also need to hit up Mike @ TSM and get one of their 340lph rebranded fuel pumps and ask him who can weld me a bung in the downpipe. Honestly i'm not sure which angle to put it at since I haven't been able to mock it up IN the car and see where it will point and such.

Shouldn't you have the AFR in the up pipe for an external wastegate though so that you don't miss metering all that vented exhaust when the wastegate opens and dumps to atmosphere, or does it matter?
I don't know how the AFR sensor determines it's voltage to send along, so i'm not sure if missing that much exhaust matters or not.

 

I don't think it matters.....all the dynos put the sniffer in the tailpipe. Your stock o2 should be the core basis for ECU readings.

 

If you want a permanent afr gauge it needs to be after the turbo 18-34" or something, but with subarus thats confusing since the turbo is so far from the heads. I've had on right in the bell mouth, about 18" from the hotside and seen some a few inches in front of the stock one.

It cannot be in the uppipe and the pressure against the turbo wheel will vary and cause inconsistencies.

The lady whose GR I helped build got her bung welded at mieneke or something.

 

You don't need the secondary one really and many use that bung.

 

yeah I might just eliminate the 2nd O2 and use that.

OP updated with new list.

Got an ETS FMIC, TiAL BOV w/11psi spring & TSM/Aeromotive 340lph fuel pump on the way.
As soon as everything is here i'll schedule a weekend to install and tune.

 

Gangsta those ets FMIC's ain't no joke. Did you get the sweet piping that runs under the intake manifold? Not sure how it'll fit with the UR kit but know that they make a couple different hotside pipes for garrett and precision turbo and stock and rotated location. So if it doesn't fit they were good about swapping it out.

Also I have a question. Why did you make your water lines that way with the barb fitting?

I was going to run a m14x1.5 to -8 male from the turbo to a -8 female pushlock fitting and then just use -8 silicone hose so I could clamp the other end to the existing subaru fittings.

I just didn't know if there was a specific reason for the way you did yours that I may not have considered.

 

Yeah I got the ETS rotated pipe kit for their rotated turbo kit. It should line up fairly close to what my UR up pipe will present. I am going to have to clock my compressor housing about 90deg though to aim the outlet kinda down the way they do theirs so the coupling will fit nicely.

I did the water lines that way because it was a water line kit that kinagawa or whatever sold so it was easy. The barb's probably aren't even the right size, but they looked pretty damn close to the hose coming off the reservoir to the stock turbo, so I thought i'd just slide em onto the barb and clamp.

I may end up eating those words come install time, but it's too hard to tell right now. Can't WAAAAAAIT to get this top mount out of my way. It makes working on the car such a huge pain in the ass.

 

It wont make a difference with the water lines except for looks.

 

This is mainly for me for reference:

32 Bit 2.5 ECU:
OmniPower 3 bar (Part #MAP-STI-3BR) -> MULTIPLIER = 9.122 psi, OFFSET = 0.164 psi
OmniPower 4 bar (Part #MAP-STI-4BR) -> MULTIPLIER = 12.086 psi, OFFSET = 0.169 psi

16 Bit 2.0 ECU:
OmniPower 3 bar (Part #MAP-STI-3BR) -> MULTIPLIER = 9.123 psi, OFFSET = 0.155 psi
OmniPower 4 bar (Part #MAP-STI-4BR) -> MULTIPLIER = 12.085 psi, OFFSET = 0.174 psi

 

FMIC in yet?

 

Mike should call me any day and say it's up at topspeed.
I'll ride up Wed or Fri and grab.

 

Yeah but I had a fuel pump and other stuff to go grab and plus I wanted to stop by and pester mike for a bit

 

Are you sure you didn't just want to go watch a 1000hp GT-R on the dyno? LOL

 

lol nah, not my thing.
I like to drive car's, and feel power.
watching them, meh that's what youtube is for

 

Hybrid boost control? let me know how that works I wanted to try it this round.

Also have fun cutting that bumper. don't cut along the black part on the inner grill or you'll remove too much. its a pain but its just trial and error, took me about 5hrs and still got more off the sides than I'd have liked.

Stole this from my friends but here's what it fits like


There's the cover back on

 

Open dump FTW!

 

Yeah haha, lets see if I can stay married with one after baby is born

 

lol - I think you're one step ahead of me... my wife told me our son won't be aloud in my M3...

 

LOL

she's on top of that. I'd be happy with that. Would let me get that daily I need anyway. glad she doesn't read this

 

NEED TO SOLVE THESE FOR SURE
















ALSO NEED TO SOLVE THESE




ALSO CLEARANCE ISSUES HERE

 

Looks like the ABS is gonna be in the way. Can you shift it closer to the fender with some ingenuity? You can push those lines a little as long as you don't kink them. This is what I like the Tbolt kits....they allow you to actually twist the turbo itself for clearance.

 

yeah i wish it was vband and I could do that, but it isn't so i'll have to move the ABS slightly or use a 45deg and another 45deg to get around it. Don't want to do that really.
Good o'l Ultimate Racing uppipe made for a GD lol

 

Can you move the ABS much? I know on my old 04 you couldn't move it without a lot of fussing about on those hard lines. I didn't like bending them too much due to easily kinking them.

 

no not much... i'm going to have to get highly creative on that or just run a "mesh screen" over the turbo :O

 

Please dont do a mesh screen...just run a 45 degree silicone hose off of the turbo to your piping. That looks like it will do the trick. Also, you could just get a reducer and run 3.5" pipe for the inlet.

 

Mesh screen on a daily is asking for a damaged turbo down the road. 3.5" inlet is PLENTY.

 

You still have the beater CRV?

If you need to click on those pics I posted and check the album there are some other pics as we did the build with the ets kit. It sits a bit further back (downpipe problem) and higher (intake problem)

I know the GD downpipes are shorter than the GR ones but I didn't think it was in the engine bay section, I thought it was more towards the catback.

 

Well the downpipe has NOT been modified to fit a GR as I thought, it is 6" too short to meet the catback and cannot be bolted to the turbine housing due to A/C hard lines entering the firewall at that location.

I will have to drop back, and emergency punt into a hail mairy on this one.

"We'll be lucky to live through it..."

 

The build has taken a turn.
I will be starting a for sale thread for the following:

Stock VF48 (21000 miles)
Process West TMIC (21000 miles)
Invidia High Flow Cat Divorced Wastegate Bell-mouth Downpipe
Stock GR STI Blue 565cc (i think?) injectors
Ultimate Racing GD rotated downpipe wrapped & coated
Ultimate Racing GD rotated uppipe wrapped & coated
TiAL 38mm wastegate / dump tube for ultimate racing setup
Stock BOV
Stock Turbo Inlet Pipe (all nipples intact lol)
Cobb SF Intake & Stock MAF sensor w/ airbox
Stock STI Shift Knob
Stock STI fuel pump

 

I will instead be going with an ETS precision 6262 vband kit. TiAL 44mm vs the 38mm (more streetable) and the vbands will eliminate any potential fitment issues as well.
Will maintain the dumptube setup