2013 STI Rotated Turbo Project

Hey let me know if you want me to order the kit. I'm military so I qualify for their discount.

That 6262 is a beast, read up on the back pressure though. Some say its a small hot side with a big compressor that leads to a lot of back pressure on Subaru's since there is so much distance between the turbo and exhaust ports for the pressure to build.

I built a car just like yours with the 6262 if you want any info.

xluben on Nasioc did a 6266 build wish is just the larger turbine wheel.

P&L's kit is nice too but I think its garrett based and with the tial hotside option the price jumps a bit. Theirs looks higher quality than ETS. ETS is a nice but its some pipes, a turbo, and then a giant bag of stuff from the hardware store... a check list but no instructions.

And what happened with the Tigwerks, I thought you were rockin a boner in sweat pants for his stuff.

Finally I'll mention your parts to some guys out this way, a few are wanting to go stage 2 and I'll be out in a few weeks to pick up an engine if I need to pick them up.

 

I had a 6262 on my Legacy.....It is a beast of a turbo but is a little laggy compared to what you are use to.

 

I would not go with a 6262 on a DD. I had a GT35R with a .62AR Tial hotside. Very quick spool and made great power. Since I had WRX heads the topend held out on me. Perfect setup for DD with big power though.

 

When I built my friends 6262, I really wanted an ETS kit after. She was chasing 500 WHP, but I didn't want that much. I asked them if I could use the Precision 5862 and they said I could.

Its an option. As you can see with their stuff, bung here, this kind of intake, etc. Do make sure you ask for an extra O2 sensor bung in the downpipe as it only comes with the factory one at the back.

My friend had to video her data logs so Mikey could see her widebands readings. I could get some of those from her and you could see where it picks up. It was a little laggy and she also has cams too. The 6262 is a bit larger than the 35R and both were the reason I went with a 30R framed turbo on mine.

This is one of her graphs, The iat sensor cut out hence the dips


Here's the final tune this was on 100 oct

 

GTX-3582R would be the turbo I would get if I had to do it over. They consistently make gobs of power and are very reliable. Yes, it will most likely be more money but will be worth saving up for.

 

He does still have stock heads, which yes can support 500 whp but that is really forcing some air past that low lift gap in the valves.

I'm not even sure what his goal is. I know he wanted a monster but still a DD.

You want a Mike Wazowski or a Sulley?

 

LOL

I talked to Mike quite a bit at topspeed and the 6262 is pretty fair for what I want.
I want a daily driver street car that stays out of boost when being driven around town. That isn't even possible with the stock turbo it spools up so quickly.

Xluben built his motor with stock heads / cams and a 6266 and made 15psi by 4200rpm and full boost by like 4500rpm which is FINE with me. 6262 should shave even a little more off that.

He also made a shitload of power on pump gas which is my direction as well.

 

Also on the street it's all about how you drive. I have a friend with a 700whp Evo 9 that has tremendous lag on an HTA86 if not driven correctly.
However, it's his car, and he knows how to drive it so anytime he's around us on the road it's imperceptible to us how laggy the car is because he just vanishes at will.

All about that right foot. I think it will be fine. I thought about a 5858 initially, but I know that at SOME point in a year or two i'll do my heads / cams and then the 6262 will really shine.

Eventually the block will get pinned too or something to reinforce it so that I can turn the boost up. Again, 6262 will continue to shine at high pressure ratios.

Future proofing my friends.

 

Best of luck man. Just giving you input cause I know from experience that lag is not fun in traffic. And it puts a lot of load on the engine when you are out of boost which ultimately is not very good for mpg. It's all about efficiency and a gigantic turbo is not efficient over all when considering all the options.

But you are right as long as you are in the right gear at the right rpm it's relative. Boost on!

 

Nothing wrong with a 6262....great turbo and I actually have one sitting in my basement Yeah, lag is all relative....I never had a problem with it and made full boost by around the 4200 rpm range. Some people might call that laggy but as long as you stayed around 4000 rpm or above it was fine.

 

Yeah exactly it's a lot about driving style, and I really appreciate your input Justin you did a phenomenal job on Vicky's car (i followed that build on nasioc) and your experience is always welcomed, don't think I'm de-valuing it at all.

I want a "classic" turbo car with huge FMIC, larger turbo that doesn't make noise and spool constantly when you are driving through the mall parking lot for example, but when you need it (and you know where to find it in the powerband) it snaps your friggin neck off.

 

No sweat, it is all about personal preference. It ain't my thing, but these cars and the turbo's are very polarizing.

Some people want the stock feel but more power, some cross the threshold to big turbo's and that sounds like the path you've chosen. Its a good one and wish you the best. I am still going to be following to see your results.

 

Off topic but Justin why are you giving up on the Subaru build?

 

Decided to go with a 6266 vs 6262 simply for reduction in exhaust gas pressure at the turbine due to the reasons Justin stated.

Mike and Doug spoke to me about it too and agree 100% this is the right decision to make.


Also I echo hawk's question, what's up man? You are clearly a season vet why throw in the towel?

 

I'm thinking it is back on track but delayed another 6 mo.

Blew it in June dropped $5K if for the rebuild with plans to have it back by August when I started school.

August 3rd started it metal was in the oil $5K was flushed down the toilet, dropped $7K on a truck to get me to school. I knew I was going to have to rebuild it anyways so I bit the bullet and just started over.

I got my new shortblock, used case halves closed decked from outfront, and built by MPS. One piston's movement was fishy and the used case half had some nicks and marks on the top bevel of the cylinders. Dom is a dick and when I told him about the concerns and told him I was surprised this came from his shop he kinda flipped. Cooled down over the holidays spoke to him again on the phone, his tune changed, he said if I sent the block back he'd crack it and recheck everything since they were turning out quite a few builds before Christmas. I got burned by outfront once with my first build, Dom still rubbed me the wrong way so I don't know if I a)trust their work b) want to rep their products in my car.

Unless that motor comes back looking like a shimmering unicorn horn, I am selling it. I met Matt Ball a few weeks ago and like his work and the work his family's shop did on your cars so I may go that route. He has destroker experience so thats a plus too.

I haven't touched the since I got the shortblock on Christmas Eve except to solder a few plugs back on that needed to be done anyways. You may have noticed I pulled a lot of the parts I was trying to sell since I will most likely keep them.

I know thats a mouthful but I just have gotten burned a few too many times and its left a bad taste in my mouth and a hole in my wallet. I shall return as planned with a 2.34L GTX30R wagon soon enough.

 

NICE!
Pm'ing you, thanks for the update man don't worry about thread jacking I asked

 

Still waiting on ETS....

 

Looks like next friday is the big day.

 

Does anyone know of a really great diagram for plumbing a hybrid boost control setup? I have a couple ways of doing it with a Grimmspeed 3 port and a Hallman Pro RX but wanted to make sure there wasn't anything i'm missing.

 

Also, Justin, i noticed in your pics of Vicky's build that you had a zip-tie holding the MAP sensor plug on. I noticed on my Omnipower 4-bar that the little plastic clip will NEVER actually "click" in like it did with the stock one. Is that the same thing you had happen? And was that your solution? I might just do the same thing.

 

6266 is the right choice for sure over the 6262. That turbo makes huge power on pump gas.

 

it's amazing what you can do with a razor blade when it comes to ill fitting plastic

 

yeah, just over kill I never thought it would come off.

 

Does the ETS kit come with any provisions for the breather hoses and stuff since I don't have an AOS at this point?

 

not that I recall. Maybe just some caps or something.

The balance tubes would stay the same (the ones that connect to the metal hardline on the TMIC). I've seen people leave this just dangling.

The intake pipe we used had some nipples to route the pcv and boost solenoid hose back in.

With the precision turbo you can delete the coolant tank if you want. We used a mishimoto radiator so it was a bit easier.

the nipple on the radiator needs to be plugged. Then the coolant hose off the water pump flows up the front then to the passenger side up to that coolant tank. We took that routing and ran it to the AOS and then back into the back off the head where the turbo coolant would return to.

Thats an option for later on but you will still need to take that coolant hose off the coolant tank and run it into the back of the head since the precision turbo doesn't have water lines.

 

so that looks pretty simple, but on my external wastegate i'll have two ports, top and bottom. I'm assuming the wastegate reference in this diagram could be assumed to be the top port on my TiAL external.
What, if anything, do you do with the lower port? let it vent?

 

Yes one port vents if you have it set up that way. There are several ways of plumbing it depending on if you are using interrupt control or bleed control.

Here's a diagram of one of the ways.

 

Check the videos out here and see if they help explain some stuff.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/external-wastegate-up-pipe-w-dump-tube-44-45mm-v-band-wrx-sti-lgt-fxt/

 

anybody got a precision vband turbo > uppipe clamp?
fubared mine.

shoulda just pulled the motor to install all this its really ridiculous how much harder it is this way :|

 

Are any of them labeled Tial? I thought Vicky had one Tial clamp that wasn't for the wastegate.

I'm far away but have the tial ones.

 

i think this mangled one will work, but probably not for long

So I routed the coolant line that FED the air seperation tank (reservoir) straight into what used to be the turbo coolant DRAIN which goes into the head.
This allowed me to eliminate the reservoir or AST completely and I just capped off the radiator nipples that it used to connect to.

I hope this isn't a problem.

My intake (air filter) tube that came with my ETS kit had no nipples to accommodate any vacuum or breather lines.
I connected the drivers side valve cover breather to the passenger side with the long hose that my PW top mount had come with to replace the stock TMIC hard lines.

I hope this isn't a problem.

There are literally 35 more vac lines and shit for the boost controller then I remember there being.
I plan on starting with just wastegate spring pressure, so just plumbing a vac line from the turbo compressor nipple to the wastegate. Since ETS drop shipped the wastegate and I don't have it yet, I can't do that part.

I need to figure out which two stock MAF wires I need to splice into for my GM IAT.

All in all it's pretty much done, but there were a LOT of improvisations I made or had to make along the way that leave me in doubt, and it sucks not having my wrenching buddy Al to chime in with years of experience and put my doubts to rest.

Honestly if I wasn't planning on tuning it with steve, i'd tow it to topspeed, drop it off and say finish it i'm so exhausted at this point. Working by yourself is not nearly as fun as the buddy system with someone to talk to, hold shit and help out. Trying not to feel discouraged.

 

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Will this ETS cap work on the radiator?

 

they call it a water line cap in the inventory sheet so i figure it's good for that otherwise why would they intend it that way

 

Yeah it should work, it may be too big as those were intended to go on the large bung of the coolant aerator tank and the back of the head.

You could also get a small hex plug and thread it into the hose in the pic as a restrictor. and then hook both ends as in the picture they just will not flow.

My concern with the caps is that I have never seen a coolant one, they've always been vacuum caps and they crack with heat.

I'd feel better about a ghetto heater hose (nylon reinforced webbing) clamped to the radiator and a bolt threaded and clamped in to plug it than a cap.

 

there's a line capped on the OEM setup 02-03 so no big deal with that. only looking at 20ish PSI on the coolant side. big thing is using the CORRECT style clamp to get even force on the cap.

 

Do I need these extra solenoids??? These aren't the main one, wtf are they for?

 

Those are fuel system evap solenoids, they can be deleted, but it requires a little more than just unplugging them.

I leave them alone on mine.

 

Could I do this?

 

IDK yours has 2 solenoids and not that vacuum one, I'm sure it will trip some code.

I gave this some thought because I will have to do it. I think I was planning on T'ing some lines back together but haven't looked at it in so long I can't remember.

 

yeah, gah damnit i have to figure this out lol.
all the vaccum and re-vent sources were inlet tube nipples that I don't have anymore :|

 

I did this same exact thing on my 205 swap.

 

fuel evap i just put back to the way it was, letting the line that normally goes into the turbo inlet tube just VTA.

STUPID downpipe > catback is leaking at the bottom of the gasket. Stupid thing leaked with my invidia downpipe too, the 2 bolt flange on the SPT exhaust I have is garbage. I will get steven to fix that at topspeed where they have a lift fuck doing this on my back lol.

I am also going to have to put the coolant reservoir back on to deal with the two radiator nipples. I will just run the straight-through coolant line I ran from under the intake to the back of the head THROUGH the coolant tank basically. Should be fine.

 

Did you leave the vbands on the downpipe loose to see if you could get the fitment any better.

Coolant sounds fine, it'd only need two caps though. Are they not the right size?

 

nope not the right size, and i will eventually get an AOS so might as well just leave it for now I can always take it back off.

i wish i had gotten subaru blue coolant before this snow crap and everything closing. I don't think using anything else would be a good idea.

fired it up for about 1.5mins earlier though. Sounds BEAST.
you can hear the turbo spinning for like another 15sec after turning it off. The bearing is actually pretty loud I was surprised.

 

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