2013 STI Rotated Turbo Project

Steve and I got the car running last night with no problem, but since I have an exhaust leak at the catback > downpipe putting his LM1 in the tailpipe was foolhardy, we we didn't tune for boost just closed loop.
Runs great cruising. I'm going to stop by TopSpeed and have them replace one of my precision vband clamps and also fix that exhaust leak. I also want steven to put some heat wrap or something on my power steering lines their proximity to the downpipe makes me nervous.

 

stupid fuel delivery problem.
replaced IAPerformance fuel lines I installed with the original stock ones, problem persists.
I put a fuel gauge on the feed line and watched it.
As fuel demand rises fuel pressure plummets.
HAS to be a problem with the aeromotive 340 or installation of it into the tank somehow. I have checked literally everything else.

 

its not a vacuum problem?

 

Welcome to the world of highly modded cars. Best of luck to ya in finding it!

 

"welcome to the..."
dude, we have never met LOL
You have NO idea what my history with cars is, but since I know you meant this remark in a kind, wholesome sort of way i'll take it as such.


Justin I can't see how it's vacuum related the car has no boost or vac leaks and the FPR is attached to the intake manifold in the stock vac location. Plus the FPR should hold 43.5psi without a vac line so if it was somehow disconnected it should at least maintain 43.5psi
it drops like a ROCK as demand goes up. I think its gotta be pump related or something back there.

 

I just went off this. FPR rises with boost pressure. I don't know your whole fuel system aside from problems before the rotato and after the build.

 

It was a kind remark....I wished ya the best of luck in tracking down the problem. Calm down.

I could've said "Told ya". But know I simply was trying to encourage and say it's normal to find pain in the butt issues but it'll get ironed out.

 

I helped pull a head off a motor today that had a screw smashed between the piston and head... dropped during a tgv install. Could be worse.

A direct wire kit might fix it if it was the pump.

I know the new 08+ are a little strange. FPR is in a different location and they had problems in 08 and had to add the dampers to the lines.

So are you still in series setup for the lines? I know those aftermarket FPR's have different configurations. Switching it up may correct it.

 

honestly when the fuel system is 0psi and I prime it, it should shoot up REAL fast to 43.5 (at least the stock pump always did)
this aeromotive 340 takes almost the entire pump cycle time when you turn the key on to slowly rise the needle on my gauge to 43.

Also considering I swapped the stock lines / dampeners / FPR back on yesterday and double check the vac line and it STILL does this I think we can eliminate the FPR on either the IAPerformance lines I had on, or the now installed stock ones.

The only thing left is the basket in the tank. If it were the rails, injectors or under manifold fuel lines there would be a very evident leak.

 

it was this:

 

that black cap shouldn't be on the inlet.
problem solved.
now i just need to put an in-line filter in place, none of the stock or aeromotive ones would fit in the basket.

 

also now the pump is nearly silent like it should be. MUCH better.
now our tune is completely off lol, have to fix that next. what a relief getting this out of the way.

 

eww have you found anyone that can run a strainer? an inline will be fine but if the pump sucks in trash you risk damaging it or marring it's gears where it may not be able to hold pressure as well over time.

 

Like I posted on FB, you should be able to get the stock fuilter on the pump and into the basket. I was able to with my Legacy and it is the same basket as the 08 STi.

 

Eddie is right it fits. Also I wouldn't run it without a strainer.

 

It will fit the stock basket....not doing something right. You are almost there.

 

I don't intend too for very long, we'll get it figured out.

 

getting the pump and everything straightened out tomorrow. TSM guys are straight, they take care of you.

I hope to take the o'l gal to the bi-weekly meet tomorrow night, front bumper or not so be on the lookout.

 

Well missed the meet because it took a lot longer up at TSM to get things straight, but now they are.

Went down to Steve's to road tune earlier and had probably the best drive of my life on the way back. Car is STUPID fast now. We had 415whp on the virtual dyno at one point but we made a ton of changes after that and my butt dyno sais it's another 40 at least but who knows.

It's a highway MONSTER now. When the wastegate opens, people take notice LOL

 

Congrats

 

just on the wastegate spring and grimmspeed 3 port right now.
going to put the hallman pro rx in-line next and up the boost a tad. I need 2 step colder plugs and tighter gap first though we were blowing out the spark when we tried 25psi, it's around 22-23 i think right now.
tons of ignition timing was left on the table for later too when the plugs are more reliable when @ WOT.
I think I just might break 500whp, but if not I really don't care at this point the car is so fast for a street car it's just absurd.

Oh and the stock clutch is putting up with all this fairly well
NO launching though obviously.

 

what rpm are you seeing full boost?

 

Just curious but why are you using two different boost controllers?

 

hybrid setup. manual controls peak boost, electric handles part throttle partial boost and other areas where you want to shape the curve.
having the MBC means you get as-fast-as-physically-possible spool without the solenoid delaying it for any reason which it can. The hallman pro rx with ceramic ball should be instant open / close.

We were getting full boost right around the same spot Vicky was, mid 4's-ish
In 5th I had it make full boost right at 4000 but that REALLY loads the motor so I won't do that regularly.

 

when you are in the boost threshold though and nail it, the "lag" is very minimal, even if you are in threshold but with low turbo shaft RPM, the ball bearing just insta-spins.
Of course, when I go equal length manifold and wrap everything that will be even better.
Remember i'm using the stock subaru exhaust manifold, and SPT exhaust (which doesn't matter with the dump tube really)
dump tube is so loud, it's like LOL loud when you hear it bouncing off cars as you fly by them hahahahahaha

 

Vicky is just running a Perrin EL header and the spt exhaust, it definitely not holding her back.

I'm gonna be hashing out the same issues as you, gotta figure out what I'm going to do with the evap and I have the hallman and grimmspeed EBCS to run a hybrid setup too.

I just got a new case and crank to build up since I am selling the 2.3L

 

my evap is all still intact, the only exception being the nipple that normally fed into the turbo inlet pipe. ETS inlet pipe had no nipples so it just vents to atmosphere. No different really so far.

 

NGK LFR7AIX

That is one step colder from NGK
They don't seem to make 2 steps cold (LFR8AIX)

The Denso IKH24's I need are NOWHERE in stock in atlanta.

Anyone got any ideas? I will amazon prime them if I have too, just seems like someone would have them in stock somewhere.
Check OReilly, autozone, advance, napa warehouse on peachtree ind and nothing.

 

Your wife go for a ride yet, James?

Steve @ Pullz-On Tuning

 

Not trying to be a jerk but really if you are going to promote your business on this site with that signature you really should be a paying vendor.

Matt and Alex put forth a bit of money and a lot of time keeping this site up for someone to come in and profit from it.

 

I inquired to Matt about vendership a long time ago. He said alex handled it and had forwarded the message along. I never heard back from them so they must not need my money. Plus its rare for me to get on here so IDK how much advertising I'm really doing. lol

Steve @ Pullz-On Tuning

 

You can have oreileys or advance order them to the store and they will be there in the AM.

 

Also, I ran the one step colder NGK plugs without any problems when I dynoed 580whp @ 28-30 psi. I would say it is more the gap that is causing the spark to blow out.

 

A: don't bring this in my thread, in fact, ignoring my threads all together would be superlative.

B: you don't have all the facts, as steve pointed out. you also don't run this site, don't support it financially, don't live in georgia and don't drive a subaru so relax, bro

C: steve was clearly trying to tell everyone who he was, since I referenced him several times in my (this) thread, and his screename doesn't reflect who he is in any way. 1-2 seconds of thought and reflection would have drawn this conclusion.

 

Good point, hmm.. what was your gap? Do you remember?

 

Typically .027"-.028" is optimal. Depends on the end boost desired.

Oh wait I'm not supposed to help.....

 

Sorry, I dont remember the exact gap now....Maybe .034....I think it was something like .01 less than what the stock gap was set.

 

0.28" sounds good

 

I believe OE gap is like .027-.033. I usually go to the smaller side of the spectrum on cars with higher cylinder pressure. The cars with the plastic tmic's that are only on ~18psi with a vf, those cars can generally have a little larger gap.

Steve @ Pullz-On Tuning

 

Its tight, they're iridium so they're not supposed to be adjusted... since most people break off the tips.

I remember .3 or less

James: if you haven't go to retailmenot, get an advance coupon code (TRT30=30%off) order them from a store that has them in stock and pick them up. Saved me $9 last job I did and all because I ordered from home rather than walked in the store.

 

napa has them next to the house in their warehouse. its special order only from advance.
i'll grab from napa on my way home.
i need to change my oil too it's getting dark

 

James, is there some type of oil restrictor in the oil feed line going to the turbo?

Steve @ Pullz-On Tuning

 

There should be one mounted right on the turbo inlet from Precision Turbo. The two Ceramic Bearing turbos I purchased from them had it already installed with a warning sticker saying not to remove it.

 

Yours are journal bearing though aren't they? Mine is the ceramic dual BB

Two points here:
First is I'm using whatever ETS shipped with the turbo, and yes like yours it was already on it but there was no sticker about not removing so I don't think it was a restrictor, didn't look like one it looked normal.

Second on ETS's checklist shipping invoice or whatever it had a line for "Oil Line Restrictor if JB / NPT fitting if BB"
I assumed from that line that I had the correct fitting for mine. If not, it's their fault for sure.

 

If you needed a restrictor and didn't have one you would be pushing oil past the seals and having a smoking car iirc.

 

i slightly am, which is what we are trying to figure out.
doesn't happen all the time either, and only when idling

 

Could the smoke not be excess fuel that was not burning due to spark blow out?

 

Nah, it's 100% oil by smell and look.
Weird too it happened on my drive down to steve's which was 100% out of boost the entire drive.
I stopped for gas almost at his place and it would do it at idle.

 

I have had a few Precision Turbos including the ceramic bearing ones and the Ceramic Bearing turbos all had a restrictor on the oil feed inlet. it looked like yours came with one too from one of the pics I saw.