so.... burning a little oil now. expected after 200,000 miles, i guess. so some major engine work is likely to be in my future one way or another... I was thinking about what my power goals are for the car. the idea is I want to be pretty much good for another 200+k miles in the 300~400hp range because i'm basically keeping the car until the welds give out. The only motorsports I really get a chance to enjoy are the drags, and I daily drive too much to go overboard with chassis mods. so I started wondering about what would the costs be to get an STI (or a turbo 2.5 from something) engine to swap in and go whole hog. I've been carving some Nasioc threads, but I'm having a tough time getting the info organised from various build threads... I dunno what the starting point in costs would be, could you guys help me build a shopping list to get a grasp on $$$ i need to have in my head? Like, start from what I should expect to pay for the engine first, and then take it from there...
You can get an EJ257 short block for 1800ish. Get some head work done while the motor is out. Grab a used vf39, sti injectors and you'll be in your power range with decent reliability. That is plenty for a DD.
New STOCK SB but toss in some forged pistons and VF43 or is it 34 or 18G size turbo along with mild headwork with STI cams arp studs and conservative tune. should be in the 325-350 range at 21psi closer to 400 wheel add a grand to up turbo to Dom 1.5
v7 207 longblock larger turbo Sti tmic or another fmic Your 205 harness and ecu IA Performance AVCS Bulkhead Wiring Kit Tune
So for you... engine 1800 machine 300? turbo 500 inj 600 ------------- $3200 without installation and tune? shouldn't an engine come with the injectors? edit-(booo courier font should be fixed width but it ate my spaces...)
figure the oil cooler is pretty well varnished up so replace that as well as oil pump, pick up, dip-stick and pan (EJ257 swap).
automatic. looking at larger displacement for low end response before spool. otherwise, i would just keep my engine for a more involved build out. so ... everyone's list is coming in about $3500 before install and tune?
your #s are about right but in the wrong place machine work will be a bit more the injectors MUCH less. If you have the space many here will help with removal, install and engine assembly. Tune will be around 300. so 3500 is not so bad when you consider most places charge around 2K + for just head gaskets.
i understand that for reliability, i should do lots of other things on setting up a new engine... such as head gaskets and timing belt work. so the number will be higher. i just needed a starting point to put in mah brain. thx guys
Sti engine swap won't work... easily. All sti's are manual tranny's. Swapping to STI AVCS heads requires the 16bit ecu and wiring harness... there is usually a difference between the auto and manual ecu's. Maybe I am wrong though. There are flaws to both subaru shortblocks. 2.0L is a direct swap in your case, were/ are known for spun rod bearings due to tight clearances. 2.5L ringland failure. to do it right you are most likely going to be upwards of $3000. I'd just get yours rebuilt as a 2.1 stroker. Save money on parts. Get a new sti crank, fresh bearings. a bore and hone for the liners and your choice of pistons, even rods if you opt for it. no head work needed, although a valve job and decking the heads wouldn't hurt.
I'd go with ej207 as well. A 2.5 hybrid wont last to 200k miles and and sti longblock will reauire a full harness and ecu swap + forged pistons
There is absolutely no way a forged piston engine is going to last you another 200k miles. You want 200k miles and 300-400 hp then a new EJ 205 if you can find one with an 18g setup done correctly will get you rock solid reliable 300hp on a 4eat.
4eat stock applications have been fine after replacing a torque converter for 400hp applications. i think the esx drag car runs a built up 4eat on its 1300hp car
Loose tolerances just beat up the cylinder walls. Harder piston material just don't last long term. Koko had one of the longest lasting forged pistons I've seen that was not OEM.....I think he got nearly 80K miles out of it on his 'soft' forged pistons.
It's the piston. Forged pistons have to be run loose as they expand a lot when heated up. So loose piston during cold starts equals a piston hammering and slapping the cylinder walls. Oil consumption due to looser tolerances also comes in play. In the end 75k-100k is to be expected but statistics show many reringing around 60K.
Not to impose upon Mallard's thread, but I suppose I can expect a similar price range for a rebuild/build in my 08 under the same expectations/wants/needs as Mallard's. I remember talking to Wes about it briefly some time ago and he suggested a new block with a vf48, TMIC, Inj, fuel pump.....I currently have a stage 2 vf52
I may be way off base but the 52 and 48 put out similar numbers. I would go slightly bigger than a 48.
ok, i dont drive like a retarded monkey all the time, so i'm sure that will extend life. but regardless, it sounds like forged pistons arent for me, and the money is better spent elsewhere. thx, this is the exact kind of stuff i needed help in shaking out
necro post time, day-dreaming again... i'm starting to consider this option more, especially since i've had my car since mile 7 on the odometer. anyone familiar with going thru a setup this way and shed some insight?