I installed DBA T3/hawk hps pads when I first got the car...but the driver's side front brake was leaking brake fluid which I fixed about a month or so later. Even after fixing the leak, the brake feel felt a little spongy so I upgraded the brake lines and the fluids as well....and while they aren't supposed to reduce crazy braking distance or anything, the brake feel hasn't really gotten any better. I know people have suggested to upgrade the master cylinder for better brake feel but I feel as if the pads aren't grabbing the rotor that well.. *Could leaking brake fluid have damaged the brake pad? the plastic part that holds the brake compound has melted in a way and I am familiar with the brake fluid being very corrosive. The driver's side brake caliper has been rebuilt because it had severe rust issues but the rest of the calipers were seemed fine! When I was installing the pads, the pistons moved back with ease except for the driver's side front caliper. Maybe I am just comparing it too hard to the Brembos on my girlfriend's car? her brakes are almost immediate but it feels as if mine takes about .5-1 sec for them to lock.. I really appreciate the help guys!
I am sure you have tried it already, but make sure you bleed the system GOOD. Make sure there is no air in there. Someone doing a crap job bleeding is the leading cause of soft brake pedals. As far as leaks go, are you having to top the brake fluid off constantly? If so you have a leak, if you havent had to you do not have a leak and it is something else.
"*Could leaking brake fluid have damaged the brake pad? the plastic part that holds the brake compound has melted in a way and I am familiar with the brake fluid being very corrosive." pics? That sounds like the culprit if the pad isn't getting a good seat.
@The Duke, I fixed the leak a while ago. I was just missing an O-ring that goes in between the calipers. But when I was leaking, yes I had to top it off constantly because I didn't know what was causing the leaking. I will need to change my fluid soon anyways so I will try the bleeding..I've bled it myself and had shops bleed it as well...:-/ could there be bubbles in the abs lines? Can that cause the brakes not to lock instantly? I wish I could compare it to another 06-07 WRX or someone who has the wrx 4 pot setup..but you know something is not right when a '11 Kia forte has somewhat of a better brake feel and seems to lock faster than the subie... @sparta, here it is: Yes I do think that may be it...the pad not getting a good seat or having that "transfer layer" which is the reason why you bed the pads when you install them..but the leaking started right after I got the pads on so maybe the pad never got "bedded in" and since I drove it for so long with the leak, the brake compound may be compromised? If this is the case, under hard braking, would my car swerve in one way or the other? Because it doesn't when I do hard braking :-/
Short answer yes. Long answer: Air is thin, air isnt very dense, and air compresses and expands ALOT unlike fluid. So when you go stomp the pedal all the air does is get compressed if it is in the system, thus cause a spougy feel and not being able to maintain force\pressure againest the brake pistons. Responding to your picture. If that plastic stuff is causing the brake not to sit flush with the brake piston, that causes all your problems as well. If the piston isnt sitting flush on the pad I wouldnt be driving it like that...
I see...how do you gett he air out of the abs lines if I were to have some in there? Also the area where the pistons meet the brake pad is sitting flush.. I am just worried the brake pad compound has somehow deteriorated or has lost th transfer layer causing the brake pads to not grab on to the rotors as well as it should
mechanically your brakes are fine hydraulically IDK. that bubble is the paint on the pads pealing from the fluid getting on them... drip some on your hood it'll look the same (don't really do that) Also the heat at the pad is enough to boil/ vaporize any fluid in or on them... therefore if you are not leaking any fluid you have burned off everything else. Only way to get the abs is through the dealers computer than can actuate the valves allowing new fluid to flow through. If you haven't activated the abs before during or after... theoretically no bubbles should have been introduced. These things are a pain to bleed. The front calipers gulp so much fluid I've had to rebleed a whole car twice from reintroducing air into the lines. I like valvoline synthetic dot 3/4 its cheap enough and works great for any application I've ever had that you can afford to mess up and still have some left over. I'd try rebleeding on your own and see what happens.
Thank you. I will try re-bleeding...i bought a cheap bleeder kit from autozone...will that work just as well or do you guys have a specific way to do it to make sure its bled comletely?? I know itd burn off whatever it is between the pad and the rotor but sometimes itd drip after ive parked..won't the residue that hasn't been burned off damage the brake pad??