After many years of waiting...

Well I joined the 6 digit club last night....

 

Oh no!!!

Your resale value just went down the toilet. Better get rid of it before you lose any more money; just sell it back to me so you won't have to worry about it.

 

LOL. My '02 WRX wagon must be worth nothing. It's at 182K... still has the original clutch and glass tranny.

 

original clutch eh? after 182k? that's quite a feat... since I just replaced mine i assume that the "glass tranny" will be the next in line...but hope not lol

 

This weekend after being inspired by this thread on scoobymods, and the near identical thread on NASIOC, I decided to install LED lights in my hatch.

This was pretty straightforward thanks to the tutorial. I installed 2 in the upper trim piece and 2 in either D Pillar. The 2 top LEDs are Super Brightness White, while the ones on the side are a less intense and a blue. I had to use a resistor in each of the circuits as indicated in the tutorial. I actually wired 2 separate circuits. The LEDs on the side are in a parallel circuit separate from the top series circuit. I did this with the intention of adding a separate switch for the side LEDs, but did not hook this up yet.

Pics:









The blue LED didn't give me the effect I was desiring since it's more of a focused light, so I may swap that out sometime in the future. I'm also planning on getting an LED bulb for the dome light and adding LED "courtesy" lights onto the doors.

 

+1 for the Newegg box.

It doesn't look too bad, other than the fact that the LEDs are focused.
It would've been even better if they were aligned exactly the same, but whatever. It'll all look the same once you find LEDs that aren't focused.

 

Yesterday I installed a set of Hella Supertones. The wiring for these was fairly simple. I placed the relay and ground at the ground wire near the battery. Then I ran wire from the relay to the new horns, and ground them to the chassis in front or the radiator. For the last wire run I had to splice into the OEM horn wires from the relay to complete the circuit. I taped up all my splices and connectors, and tucked all the wires into wire loom for better looks and protection.

I didn't drill any holes into the radiator support, but just used the existing ones. As a result the horns are sitting lower than I've seen. For right now I'm going to leave them like they are, but may work on getting them pivoted up to the center of the grille.

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I'm thinking a light bar would look good on the front...

 

Looks pretty good. The right one is sitting just a little lower than the left one though. Hahah.

 

Yea...I've moved it down a little bit more..

 

Updated the first post with the upgrades since last August....

Here's a pic from a get-together yesterday...

 

Updated Post #1 - I should keep better track of this thread

 

Updated Post #1!!!!

Installed GroupN Trans Mount and TiC Crossmember bushings yesterday. I'm amazed at the difference in shifting feel. It's like a brand new car....almost...despite the 152k on it.

Also re-painted my hellas as they were fading:



I really need to do something about those headlights...

 

Car is at AllPro...catastrophic knocking on the engine. Currently pending Brandon's investigation of my spare 2.5 to determine it's worthiness for installation. At least at this point the majority of my pending part list will be installed.

 

It was at 154669 when I filled up with gas the previous day.

 

I hate to hear that she finally ate her motor. Hopefully the car has treated you well up to this point. I miss it. If you decide to get rid of her instead of doing an engine swap, let me know.

I'm interested to see what let go. Spun bearing? Are you running the same turbo I put on there?

I guess that many miles out of a 2.0 pushing 20 psi isn't bad. I noticed on 6/32/12 you said you had the timing belt tensioner replaced. Did the one that I put on not even last two years, or was that a precautionary measure of some sort? Just wondering.

 

I'm interested as well, but I won't know until after it gets pulled (obviously). Patrick at AllPro did mention it could be Oil Pickup failure, which we all know is common. Or, due to the code that was thrown, the timing could have skipped and the oil pump stopped functioning correctly. Either way, the end result was catastrophic.

Here's how it went down: I was driving into town for an event, and noticed a CEL. Using my BlueTooth OBD2 adapter I pulled the code on my phone: P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Malfunction. Obviously, I figured this wasn't good. On the way to a safe lot to park and check things out, I stopped at a traffic light less than a mile from where I noticed the code. It was then that I heard the knocking, and the oil PSI dropped to 10, which is where it remained for the following 2 minutes it took to limp it into the lot. At this point I knew it was most likely toast and needed to be towed. While attempting to back into a covered spot in the lot, the engine simply shut off. I got it pushed into the spot for the tow truck, and had it towed up to AllPro the next morning. Upon briefly cranking it, Brandon stated that the engine was definitely toast, and was nearly at the point of seizing completely.

As to the timing belt tensioner, I noticed an odd slight "knock" (mostly when it was cold outside) at some point in 2012 and Brandon at AllPro tracked it down to the tensioner cracking or wobbling. He did state that it was a commonish problem on the 2.0....so not sure what

 

That is odd that the camshaft position sensor code was thrown before things went south.

About the tensioner... I've been around enough Subarus now that I figured the cold temp knock was straight up piston slap that about all the EJ205s exhibit once they get some miles on them. When they replaced it, did the sound go away?

I also wonder if the all out failure might have been the oil pick-up tube. Thought about replacing the tube with one of the Killer B pieces back when I owned it, but never got around to it. Wasn't too worried at the time because, then, it seemed like most of those failure stories revolved around the 2.5 liter motors. I actually did change out the tube on a 2005 Legacy GT that I bought not too long after I sold you my car.

Keep us updated. It would be awesome to see that car get a 2.5 liter bottom end and an 18G+ sized turbo.

 

Well, here's an update for you guys:

Putting in a new 2013 STi block EJ257, as the spare I had and (obviously) the original EJ20 would cost more to have machined and built than a brand new one. That being said here's the current parts/build list. Essentially, I'll come out of this with a decent hybrid build when it's all said and finished, as we'll be using the existing 2.0 heads. At this point, the only thing that'd be nice to have is STi cams for the heads...

Newly acquired parts:
* Killer B pickup tube
* Killer B Baffle
* OEM 11mm Oil pump
* NGK 1-step colder plugs
* Tomei Timing belt guide
* ARP Head studs
* GrimmSpeed UpPipe w/ Thermal Coating
* GrimmSpeed Ported/Coated Header w/ HiFlow XPipe
* Cobb Short Ram Intake
* Tomei Fuel Pressure Gauge for FPR
* Tomei FPR Adapter
* Cobb AP v3 (nobody uses the v1 anymore )

More Newly acquired parts:
* ID 850cc Injectors and adapters
* ACT Streetlight FlyWheel
* ACT Solid Clutch Disk
* Grimmspeed Lightweight Pulley

Even More part(s):
* BNR 18G turbo

Previously acquired parts:
* Ported Intake Manifold
* Perrin v2 Fuel Rails
* TiC TGV Deletes
* Forge BPV
* Tomei Fuel Pressure Regulator

Services/Parts being performed/acquired by/from AllPro:
* 2013 STi block EJ257
* CP 99.5 8.2:1 compression pistons
* Injector Testing
* Head Resurfacing/Checking/etc.
* Gaskets and fluids
* Belts and Hoses
* Timing components
* And last but not least, putting it all together and answering all of my odd random questions.
* 2.5 Heads
* 2.5 Oil Pan

Other parts going on:
* TiC 5MT shift linkage
* Kartboy FSB spacers
* ProSport EGT gauge

 

What was the issue with the old one? Oil pickup fail?

 

Brief update:

Talked to AllPro yesterday, they're estimating the car to be completed next week. They haven't yet pulled the block, so there's no confirmation on what broke on the block.

Additionally, thanks to ChrisW, I was able to get a set of 2013 STi cams for my heads.

 

Engine came out of the car yesterday, heads should go to the shop today...new block w/ pistons is ready to go in once the heads are complete and injectors have been tested.

 

Well, when it rains it really pours.

Allpro just called, my heads, which were going to be re-used and outfitted with STi cams are cracked. Additionally, the turbo is bad...waiting to hear back from them on how bad..

 

Looks sweet!!

 

Another update:

Flywheel has heat cracks, so it's being replaced with an ACT Streetlight.
Clutch disk is worn down to the rivets, so it's being replaced with the same ACT solid disk.
Injectors all flow, but at 25% of what they should be (480 instead of 650), so they're being replaced with ID 850cc injectors.

BNR has the turbo to rebuild the center housing as the bearing burned up when the engine lost oil pressure.

As to what caused all of this, timing didn't jump and was dead on. The oil pickup didn't show any signs of cracks/breaks/etc. So the best guess, as it hasn't been pulled apart, is that the oil pump just died/seized/broke/you-name-it. The block did have metal bits inside and was nearly locked.

Lastly, AllPro just got in a set of 2.5 heads that look good, so they will have those rebuilt and I'll be using them.

 

That's really effing weird.

I'm curious about those injectors... I wonder why they aren't flowing like they should? I wonder how long they've been like that? I got them new from Deatschwerks back in the day.

Of course there's no way to know how they were doing back at the 90,000 mile mark, but I did kind of think it felt like the car had more "kick" to it back after I first installed the turbo and other associated upgrades.

People told me and I eventually figured that it was all in my head and I had just gotten used to the car. What you've written makes me wonder if it really was cut back.

 

I'm kinda curious as well. I'm thinking I may send them off to be rebuilt and try to sell them afterward. The good thing is that when I decided it's time to blow the 5MT I can slap a 18/20g or something to that on there and don't have to worry about fuel, just a re-tune.

 

Sounds like this is going to be a solid build when everything is said and done, good luck!

 

while you're at it have the fuel pump and pressure regulator checked and change the fuel filter. I'm betting a bearing decided to delaminate, blocked an oil galley and burned down your motor or your pump took a shit. Not too common but does happen.

 

New update:

I ended up having to get a new turbo from BNR, and decided to go with an 18G. The deadbolt couldn't be rebuilt due to the fact that the center section had been sleeved, and when everything lost oil it slipped and tore up the housing...or something like that.

Brandon just called, the long block is assembled and Stephen is plugging the avcs holes on the STi cams. Brandon is working on the intake manifold build with the new injectors and tgv deletes. They also received the turbo today.

 

sleeve job was on the compressor side, center-section was shot from the engine's attempt to prolapse

 

Beautiful wagon. Pretty jealous

 

Update:

We were nearly all set to have the break-in tune put on last Tuesday, but there was an issue with the pressure plate that wouldn't allow the clutch to disengage so you could put the car into gear. I had to get a whole new clutch assembly to fix that.

As of now, the car is complete, drive-able, and waiting for Doug to come by today and put on the break-in tune.

Oh, and the battery is dead...

 

Jeez, it seems like you've had everything but a plague of locusts involved in this build. Glad you're finally on the home stretch.

Honestly, I'm glad to see you went with a bigger turbo. Costs less in the long run to go ahead and get it installed and tuned now. That little 16G wasn't big enough to really make the most of your new motor, anyway.

I'm curious... What oil brand/change interval were you running when the engine finally pooped itself? I don't ask to start an oil/maintenance debate in your build thread, but really just because I keep a mental tally of the circumstances involved behind a lot of EJ failures.

Really, though, while people try to make these things out as somewhat fragile, 150,000+ miles on a 10 year old motor that's been pushing 20psi for the last 60,000 or so miles is pretty damn good, imo.

 

It sure has seemed that way. As to the oil question, I religiously changed it every 3k-3.5k with Rotella T6. Oddly enough, it went all bork on me after only 300 miles into an oil change. That was the first thing I checked when I parked it, and the oil was still clean and looking fresh...

 

More updates:

Picked up the car Monday :banana:

Noticed fluid on the garage floor Tuesday when I got home from work at noon. Called AllPro, and they asked to look at it, obviously. Got it up there, and the whole bottom of the car was covered in gear oil.

They've already dropped the trans, and the input shaft is wobbly, so it seems the transfer case seal blew. Now they've got to break the trans case open to replace it...Hoping they don't find anything else wrong once it's apart.

 

I thought I recognized the car when I was up there last night. Here's to hoping there's not anything else wrong with the trans. Good looking car though!

 

Yea, my car was parked next yours on Monday when I picked it up...

 

so essentially a new 04 WRX wagon?

 

Starting to seem that way...depending on what they find in the trans after cracking open the case, it very well could be.

 

Update:

I got the car back from AllPro Tuesday last week with a "loaner" 5MT while they're breaking mine apart and determining what is needed to get it back to 100%. So far, I've gotten almost 600 miles on the new block, and she's feeling great! The clutch is pretty much broken in at this point, as there's no more chatter or smell. It's going to be interesting to see how she performs once it's tuned and I can fully "go" into boost. Right now I'm keeping it out of boost for the most part, but pushing a little here and there to ensure an even break-in.

At this point, aside from the trans and final tune, she's pretty much complete. I am looking to get a Crawford AOS here shortly, and will probably get the Grimmspeed TMIC STi splitter as well to round things out. But as of now, I've got a fully functioning 2.5 hybrid WRX...Once I get tuned I'll post up the final numbers...I'm really not sure what to expect at this point, but am hoping it'll be higher than before.

 

As some of you may have seen in the Facebook group, I got the final tune yesterday.

Tune was done at DBW Motorsports.
Dyno: Mustang Dyno
Ambient Temp: 37* - Adjusted to 77* on the dyno
Elevation: 1217 ft
Tuner: Douglas Wilkes
Results: 300.0 HP@6176 & 274.7 TQ@5374 - @ 19 PSI

Crappy cell pic:


For any one who's curious, the baseline/break-in tune was running 226.7hp and 206.2tq.

The tune has made the feel of the car so much better, and she pulls hard when you push it. I'm quite happy with where things are at now. The only thing left is to get my transmission issue sorted out with AllPro and let them have the loaner back.

 

Cant see the pic but congrats

 

Ohhhhhhhhh..... NICE!!! That's on the new dyno, too, which I understand is a bit less generous than the old Dynojet.

I bet that thing really "shits and gits" now. Glad you finally just about have her all tied back together. If you're on the south side any time soon, you should swing by and let me check this little beast out.

I sold my SRT Magnum back before the holidays and am tooling around in an old 5 speed 1996 F150 with a 300 six, lol. Might be getting back in a Subaru here before long. Can't wait to get back in a decent car again.

 

Thanks for the fuel rails! Did I see the grimmspeed hood splitter on your car yesterday? If not let me know when you want one and i will hook it up. That power curve looks good, Doug FTW!

 

@K.Marx you're right, she does feel peppier and faster than before...still just as much fun. I'll hit you up if I end up in your neck of the woods.

@Sparta - You're welcome! Glad I was able to help you out. And no, I don't have the grimmspeed splitter, just the IC. I have been thinking to get one at some point, and will definitely let you know when I'm ready.

 

that's a nice plateau of torque and the power keeps coming, should bring a smile while rowing through the gears

 

It truly does!! Breel, do you know any of the specs on the turbo I got from BNR?

 

TD05-18G? don't remember which wheel off hand