Light Bar Installation Complete! Current Draw?

Discussion in 'Modifications & DIY how-to' started by TURBOH4, Aug 11, 2015.

  1. TURBOH4

    TURBOH4 Member

    Light Bar Installation Complete! [Completed...Again]

    I was finally able to finish installing the other 4 lights on my Rally Innovations bar. I think it turned out really good, all things considered.

    4 Hella 700FF - 130w bulbs
    2 Hella 550/Comet - 100w bulbs

    Pics:

    http://i.imgur.com/ledZmnF.png
    http://i.imgur.com/Qpk37U8.png

    So if I decided to turn all 6 lights on at once, I'd be pulling just shy of 60 amps and that doesn't include the regular headlights, fog lights, or high beams. I'm not sure what the rating is for the 2012-2014 STi is, but I figure that most cars have either a 60 or 80 amp alternator. If it's an 80 amp, that doesn't leave much, if any, overhead.

    I've never blown an alternator before, but what I assume is that the battery will go first, then the alternator. If I do manage to kill the alternator, is there any risk of damaging anything else? I mean, I know the alternator is expensive but my main concern is cooking the ECU or anything else "major".
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2015
  2. Justin V

    Justin V Member

    I have an 07 and think I read they changed to a 110amp alternator from 06. I'm not sure if that carried over from the GD's to GR bodies
     
  3. Matt

    Matt Think before you post Staff Member Supporting Member

  4. bluedestiny

    bluedestiny Supporting Member

    If I remember correctly, typically the connected load should not exceed 80% of a fuse or circuit breaker.
     
  5. b reel

    b reel Active Member

    You'll need a higher output alternator when running all the lights and turn them off when idling.
     
  6. TURBOH4

    TURBOH4 Member

    Well, there'd be no reason to run the fogs at the same time as the driving lamps; at least not the top ones. That's 16 amps right there (100w each).

    So if I ran all 4 700's at the same time, that'd be 43 amps. If I ran the high beams as well, that's another 10 (65w bulbs), so 53 amps. I don't know off hand if the stock HIDs are 55w or 35w, but figure they're 55w and that's an additional 9 amps for a grand total of 62 amps. Call it 70 for heat and resistance.

    If the alternator is rated at 110 amps, that still leaves 40 amps leftover for whatever else is running. I can't imagine that everything else combined is equal to 40 amps. I have all stock sound except the head unit, I never run the A/C, and I probably wouldn't run the heated seats at the same time as the lights.

    I've been looking at HID conversion kits for H3. I know that the reflectors aren't designed for HID and that it's a hazard to other drivers. I wouldn't be using the lights when other cars are present, even in stock form. My main goal is for lighting everything up on the highway at 3-4AM where I do a good bit of driving.

    Lots of people do 55w HID conversions in the Hella 500FFs, so I'm thinking it would be no problem for the 700s since they're physically larger. I might also do just the bottom lights and keep the top lights halogen. Not sure yet.
     
  7. Matt

    Matt Think before you post Staff Member Supporting Member

    HIDs are 35w
     
  8. TURBOH4

    TURBOH4 Member

    Thanks!
     
  9. TURBOH4

    TURBOH4 Member

    Well I ended up swapping the 700s on the top for Rallye 4000FF lights and converted those over to HID. Huge difference in quality and light output so I'm pretty happy. I'll probably keep the 700s and later on replace the bottom lights with Rallye 4000 fogs.
     
  10. nicad

    nicad Yes I am a troll

    100% for a fuse, 80% for a circuit breaker
     
  11. FACE

    FACE Active Member

    :wiggle: Pics or it didn't happen
     
  12. TURBOH4

    TURBOH4 Member

    I was looking for an excuse to post these pics, haha! I was gonna go with Rallye 4000 fogs on the bottom but they don't come in amber...yes I know the amber thing is debatable but I personally love the way it looks.

    Rock came up and broke one of my Hella Comet/550 fogs so I started looking at PIAAs and let me tell you, they are 150% more expensive than the Hella 550 fog lights, but they are infinitely better as far as performance and build quality. Super easy HID conversion too.

    Initially I had 2 PIAA 520 ion yellow fogs and 2 PIAA ATP white; ended up with an extra set of the fogs (total of 4) due to Amazon's error. They let me keep them soooo...now I have 4 fogs on the car. I didn't care much for the ATP beam pattern. The cool thing is that I can just swap lenses if I want to change the position or lamp type.

    I'm considering adding one more light in the center on the bottom but...not sure.

    All lights are now 55w HID; downside is it kinda made a mess of the wiring...upside is current draw, for all 6 lights, is only ~26 amps versus 65+ amps with halogen.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    (the 4000's aren't rotated; the covers are)
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2015
  13. TURBOH4

    TURBOH4 Member

    Oh, and in case anyone is wondering...

    - Rally Innovations Bar: $320 shipped
    - Hella Rallye 4000FFs: $210 from Amazon ($105 each)
    - PIAA 520 ATP kit (2 lights): $220 from Amazon
    - PIAA 520 Ion Fog kit (2 lights): $220 from amazon
    - PIAA 520 Ion Fog kit (2 lights): free
    - KENSUN 55w 4300K HID H1 conversion kit: $65
    - KENSUN 55w 3000K HID H3C conversion kit: $65
    - KENSUN 55w 3000K HID H3C conversion kit: $65
    - 100ft 12ga wire: $25
    - Miscellaneous stuff (fuses, fuse holders, nuts/bolts, etc.): $50

    Total: $1240

    Total with Hella 700s and Hella Comet/550's and no HID conversions (a viable alternative): $635 excluding the $3/each 130w H3 halogen bulbs

    Total time spent: ~32hrs...maybe 28 if you exclude changing the lights around from what I had originally. What took the most time was just tinkering and figuring out how to do what I wanted to do. Also, bulk of the time was spent soldering and heat shrinking. It took about 2hrs to figure out how to get the low-side relay wires through the firewall. I ended up using the unused grommet that's right above the top door hinge. I have enormous hands so it was a difficult task.

    I'll post a pic of the switches when I get a chance; I drilled holes in the interior fuse panel cover. I figure that if I ever want to go back all I need to do is buy a new fuse panel cover.
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2015
  14. Eco Auto Clean

    Eco Auto Clean Active Member

    wow..very cool!! looks great. I want to add some lights to my forester.but dang priorities!
     
  15. Have you noticed any difference in engine temps or ac performance?I only ask because it seems like this might affect airflow through the grille.I wanted to do something similar but on a smaller scale.
     
  16. TURBOH4

    TURBOH4 Member

    I rarely run the AC so...can't say. The coolant temps haven't been affected; 190-198 on the highway.
     
  17. digitizedsoul

    digitizedsoul Moderation is a vice Supporting Member

    This looks absolutely AWESOME hahaha!!!
    One of these days when my son grows up (and if he likes this idea) I want to build him an old bugeye or a baja for more off-road and this type of lighting idea is exactly what I wanted to do.

    Man I can't imagine how much you'd light up the woods with these.
     
  18. TURBOH4

    TURBOH4 Member

    Honestly, the quad fog setup is the most useful mod I've done to the car thus far. It really, really helps fill in the gap left by the stock HIDs. Plus, people tend to actually LOOK at the car, especially at night, rather than turning in front of me or just randomly drifting into my lane.

    Had I to do over again I would've probably built my own bar and set it up to accept 6 Hella 4000's; 2 turning, 2 fog, and 2 driving beams. I like the PIIAs but I really think it would've looked even more insane with 4 more 4000's.

    Anybody have any thoughts on adding one more PIAA fog to the center where there's a gap?
     
  19. Superdude

    Superdude Active Member

    I think you've got it covered ;)
     
  20. TURBOH4

    TURBOH4 Member

    Haha! I know, it's just that I think it looks kinda strange.

    My next project will be underway soon enough. I'm going to fab a roof rack/basket out of ABS pipe and I'm either going to use the leftover Hella 700's or go the LED route.
     
  21. Superdude

    Superdude Active Member

    I've seen some nice LED set-ups. They're so compact and tidy, it'll help keep your center of gravity lower on the car.
     
  22. TURBOH4

    TURBOH4 Member

    Yeah, my only issue with LED is it kinda doesn't fit the look I'm going for. I like the traditional round lights a lot more. If I was going to do an LED bar, it'd go in the back. On the front I might go for 4X PIAA LED lights:

    www.amazon.com/PIAA-5772-570-Driving-Lamp/dp/B0060ZB2L0

    That would allow me to run much smaller gauge wire which is much more manageable.
     

Share This Page