alignment specs

Discussion in 'Modifications & DIY how-to' started by Hazzard, May 5, 2007.

  1. Hazzard

    Hazzard Member

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    I am taking my car to get aligned and corner balanced and i was wondering what alignment specs i should go for?

    I have a set of Tein Flex coilovers. My car is a daily driver with as much autocross i can possibly do.
     
  2. Alex

    Alex Community Founder
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    Well, the fronts of the flex are adjustable right, camber wise? I'd max out the rear (wont get too much w/o bolts anyway), and do maybe 1.6 to 2.0 in the front if you want to retain any sort of reasonable tire ware.
     
  3. Hazzard

    Hazzard Member

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    with 0 toe all the way around, correct?

    edit: also, i was curious what the performance alignment at SOG is. since i am down here in savannah, i can't really make it up there during the week, but there is a shop down here that will do a custom alignment to the specs that i specify.

    just wondering what i should tell them.


    so, -1.5 to -2 camber in the front, as much it will go in the rear, and 0 toe all around?
     
    #3 Hazzard, May 5, 2007
    Last edited: May 5, 2007
  4. pEd

    pEd This ain't no Piccadilly!

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    yes... 0 toe will be best.
     
  5. WJM

    WJM Banned

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    -2.0 camber front
    0.00 toe front

    -1.5~-1.8 camber rear (which is stock and is NON adjustable)
    0.00 toe rear
     
  6. Hazzard

    Hazzard Member

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    thanks for the help everyone.
     
  7. clemsonscooby

    clemsonscooby Active Member

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    The most you have to go in the rear is -1.0, get camber bolts if you have to (GTscoob is selling them). -1.8 is way too high. Your car will have little rotation in the shallow corners. Personally, I like being able to get the car to rotate by trail braking and throttle and I use -.7 in the rear. For the fronts I would go -2 to -2.5 if you want to get pretty serious. Don't go anything lower than -2, because -1.6 is about stock and thats not that great. -1.6 the car will still plow a lot if you are pushing through some corners. 0 toe is correct though. I would actually get two setups since its very easy to adjust camber on the Flex's. Get a setup that is -2 up front with 0 toe, and ask for a -2.5 setup. You can adjust it to -2.5 before a race and this will give you a little toe out, which would make that AWD turn-in a lot better. Just mark the camber plates for -2.5 on both sides and the -2.
     
    #7 clemsonscooby, May 6, 2007
    Last edited: May 6, 2007
  8. WJM

    WJM Banned

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    I agree with you as long as the car is 'stock caster' or even as much as +5.5 caster.

    When you get to +6.5 and higher caster...you will need that rear camber.

    On my RS I had +7.5 caster...-2.4 front camber and -1.8 rear camber. It was still ass happy, even with a 25mm front bar and no rear bar. Toe was 0.00 front and rear.

    But yes, your 'average' subaru will need 0.0 to -1.0 rear camber to 'make it rotate'...but I think thats the wrong method. ;)
     
  9. Alex

    Alex Community Founder
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    Mmm caster :)
     
  10. WJM

    WJM Banned

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    Caster is FTW.
     
  11. Hazzard

    Hazzard Member

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    i would love to get camber bolts, but my apointment for the alignment and corner balancing is early tuesday morning. not really enough time to get them shipped and put them on the car.

    i will definatly get some for next time around though.
     
  12. clemsonscooby

    clemsonscooby Active Member

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    So reschedule, no reason to waste an alignment when you can only get 2 wheels done. GTscoob can have the bolts for you by tues. afternoon I would suspect.
     
  13. AWD_Tiger

    AWD_Tiger Member

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    If you are taking the I-16 to I-75 route, stop by summit racing (exit 216 on 75) and pick up a set (~$20)

    Thats of course if you cant get them from GTscoob... his are cheaper and new:)
     
  14. schneid

    schneid Member

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    Jeff at Gran Turismo recommended the slightest bit of toe in (like .02") for better tire wear, and that is what I have because a lot of my miles are on the highway. apparently when you are at speed, the force of the road on the tires will pull the toe out ever so slightly anyways. I am going to see how this does...it feels fine and tracks straight as hell. back camber is fixed at -1.6, front is -1.6 as well. cross camber and toe is .00
     
  15. Hazzard

    Hazzard Member

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    well, my apointment is rescheduled....
    you guys were right, i might as well go ahead and get it done right instead of having to do it again later.
     
  16. WJM

    WJM Banned

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    Thats the rumor i heard too...but after testing it on my cars, 0.00 toe is best. Slight toe in will still wear the insides...*SLIGHTLY*...slight toe out will chew them up. 0.00 toe resulted in very small wear, much less than with the toe in, on the inner edge.
     
  17. schneid

    schneid Member

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    wow, so you found exactly opposite of what I was told...

    I was told that just a hint of toe in would 'dramatically' increase my tire wear:confused:

    So youre saying it dramatically reduces it versus 0 toe....

    Damn conflicting info! and you are both reputable sources! don't you work at SOG, if I'm not mistaken?
     
  18. socrates42

    socrates42 Member

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    mine is set for 1.8 front and 1.0L and 1.2R on the back. 0 cross toe. for some reason Will was having a hard time getting the right down to 1.0. The corner balance is AMAZING though!
     
  19. WJM

    WJM Banned

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    Yes, I work at SOG.

    No no no...heres what i am saying:

    0.00 Toe=BEST!

    SLIGHT toe in=still ok, you will see slightly more wear than 0.00 toe...

    SLIGHT toe out=not good, chorded tires in no time.
     
  20. clemsonscooby

    clemsonscooby Active Member

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    True, toe out will chew your tires up at highway speeds driving all the time, but toe out for autox is great! A 1/8 degree out just for autox will make the car turn in better than toe in or zero toe.
     
  21. 4sevens

    4sevens Member

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    I just took my car in for an alignment in anticipation for yearone and tgp.
    I was shocked to find out that the 07 sti needs a camber kit and they couldn't
    adjust the front camber :(
     
  22. calmnothing

    calmnothing Shlimp Flied Lice
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    they couldnt adjust rear camber either? Wow that bites.
     
  23. clemsonscooby

    clemsonscooby Active Member

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    You can't adjust rear camber on any Subaru without bolts. The front's were the only ones that came with bolts.
     
  24. WJM

    WJM Banned

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    best you can get out of a stock STi up front is -1.0 anyways. Thats on a really good day.
     
  25. clemsonscooby

    clemsonscooby Active Member

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    Aren't the STi bolts the same as the WRX? I have been able to get -1.6 out of the stock bolts.
     
  26. WJM

    WJM Banned

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    Yes.

    However, due to it being 'STi' it is naturally more....different...and the same....at the same time.

    *shrug*

    Yes, I have gotten -1.2 to -1.5 easily from a WRX...but the STi's are lucky to see -0.9. Very few see -1.0, most get to -0.8.

    It could have something to with the slightly altered geometry from the AL control arm...
     

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