Ecutek and alignment

The rear camber bolts are $65, and we charge one hour to install / align them (they are a PAIN to align). With rear camber bolts it will have to be a performance alignment, wich is $149. We generally spend near 2 hours doing it and guarantee 0.1 degrees accuracy on camber and 0.02 degrees on toe.

The next date available for Ecutek here is September 26th... please feel free to contact me with any questions. Thanks for the interest.

SS

 

Topspeed ordered my rear Cam bolts for around $45 and I got a performance allignment from Gran Turismo for $85, nice and knowledeable fellaz...

 

Just do a google search for Gran Turismo GA. I had a performance Alignment from Scott and also one by Gran Turismo, both were excellent. Can't go wrong either way.

 

I've also gone with Gran Turismo for alignments in the past and will in the future.

 

What a good alignment recommendation for an STi and a track day? I'm asking for specs. I have the JIC c/o's with 7k/ 5k springs and front and rear sway bars.

Thanks!

 

I've heard of a lot of STI owners that have been very happy with the way Gran Turismo East set their cars up, but they will not release the specs.

 

They did mine last time and I wasn't impressed with the outcome. Jeff has always doen me right but the last setup was questionable.

I have the pillowmounts on the top and he left the driverside at 0 and the pass side at -2 ticks to get the alignment the same on both sides. :huh:

 

scott aligned mine and i LOVED it at the autocross

 

Im not knocking any other shops but SOG is the only place that has ever and will ever touch my car.

Scott the car feels awsome, pulls hard, and feels like it has much bigger balls. ECUTEC is the only way to go.

 

u can hang these on the back

 

i would die of laughter if i saw one of those hanging ferom your lgt.. :rofl:

 

for street I am runing 1.5 in the front and 1 in the back (its 1.3 stock) with a barely a degree of toe out in the back. The most important thing about alignments is cross camber and cross toe, that should be as close to zero as possible

 

Brian and i have been taking our (well mostly his) cars to gran turismo since our freshman year at georgia tech. We have gotten nothing but excellent service from them. I recommend them to anybody needing tires or alignment.

 

I'm happy to release the specs, and I usually give the customer their prinout.

If you have top plates (camber plates) you MUST set them equal, at a known position, FIRST.

With JIC's I usually got 1 or two big (2 or 4 small) marks in from zero for the street setting. With the Tein's it's 3 or 4 marks. These both give room to get near 2.0 degrees for street and 3+ on the track/auto-X.

Of course balance/alignment also depends on tires, sways, ride height, etc. But within reason you always want a touch of toe-in front and rear on the street. We use 0.03 to 0.05 degress toe-in front and rear. (Our performance alignment guarantees accuracy to 0.02 degrees toe and 0.1 degrees camber). If you have top plates, when you move them in for more camber at the track, you will also be getting toe-out. Generally 0.15 to 0.3 for a road-course, and a bit more for auto-cross.

For camber, it's really a balance thing. If the front has less than the rear the car will almost undoubtable be pushy. When camber gets to being equal front and rear, the car gets better balanced, but to really have good front grip, and capacity to rotate the car, you will want at LEAST 0.5 degrees more front camber than rear.

This usually leads to a rear camber setting of 1.4-1.6 with fron of 1.8 (safer) to 2.2 (more aggressive) on the street. With top plates you can run these near 2.0 degrees and slight toe-in on the street, then go to 2.5-3.5 degrees and significant toe-out on the track.

The JIC's gain right near 0.1 degrees camber and 0.05 toe per small mark (a touch over 0.2 camber and .1 toe per big mark) so setting 2.0 camber and 0.05 toe in for the street then go in 2 big marks and end up with 2.5 camber and .15 toe out, which works QUITE well (depending on spring rate, sway bar and ride height of course) for road coursing. Go another 2 and you are near 3 degrees camber and .35 toe out, which works on the auto-crosses.

The real beauty of top plates is the fact that you almost never want toe out, or major camber on the street, and you almost never want toe-in ar low front camber on the track. Being able to change that is AWESOME.

SS