just wondering if there are many wrxs pullin 1g, or if it is possible at all, and how much money is needed in order for that kind of a set-up. but yea, i guess trying to see how good my car can be in handling, cuz i am not very happy YET.
why is it that the wrx skidpad numbers seem low? (at least to me). Seems with the AWD it would do much better on the skidpad.
If you're looking at stock #s from a magazine or something like that, it is because of the craptastic re92s that come stock on the wrx.
Yeah. The tires are the weakest link in the equation. Putting on some 245's with a good grippy compound will raise the numbers considerably. I'm sure the right suspension bits would help a lot too, but the diff's on the WRX are probably the next worst part. The LSD's in the 6MT would probably make a world of difference too.
it's just that my friend's rsx can go in a corner at 40, when i go in at 35 and understeer. he does have eibach springs so maybe that helps. but i want my to be like "it's not gonna make it" but it grips up. maybe i`ll hitch a ride at the autocross get together and have a different opinion.
it's just that my friend's rsx can go in a corner at 40, when i go in at 35 and understeer. he does have eibach springs so maybe that helps. but i want my to be like "it's not gonna make it" but it grips up. maybe i`ll hitch a ride at the autocross get together and have a different opinion.
Having AWD isn't gonna make you go any faster into the turns, it will make you faster coming out. That's where the difference is. Also, if you are having understeer issues, try getting a larger adjustable rear swaybar w/ endlinks to start off, and also get a front swaybar if money allows. Some people may tell you that getting a larger front sway bar will increase understeer, but that is not the case for subies.
yea i heard that because our chassis and drivetrain dynamics are different (one oversteers one understeers) so a larger FSB deletes understeer, and also, i am happy with the rear end of my car somewhat (it 'settles' or 'tilt' to a turn) so my investment would go to FSB. also, i`ll be more than glad to see you at the autocross get together and give me some real-life feedbacks! i am such a noob in anything so i`m all ears. if you were tuning a 03 bugeye, would you do springs first or swaybars? i mean i`m spending money on a helix DP first though hehe
hmm... i actually like my diff, but what do i know, i havent driven anything else with a diff. other than my car. can you run 245s without a wide body kit? i`m planning on running at least 225 on 17s (dont want 18's cuz it slows me down in the straights, and i dont think it will help that much in a turn either) right now it seems that i should either get yokohama prada-2 or falken azenis?
i've pulled 1.3 at the dragon on a stock setup with only performance tires. i also have people who can back me up on those numbers as well
Ive pulled ~1.1(according to a G-Tech) on a hairpin type corner but i could have taken it faster. My suspension set up is Tokico D-Spec's (set on full soft) Prodrive Springs PDE Camber Plates(-2.5 degrees up front) 225-45-17 BFGoodrich G-Force T/A KDW's H-Brace Perrin FSB(set on stiff)
Skid pad numbers are highly overrated. On street tires at the track we are well over a g consistently, sometimes seeing peak numbers as high as 1.3.
Ya, AWD isn't an end-all to handling issues. A lot of people (not car guys) got confused by how the Nissan Skyline is extremely fast in the corners and they attributed that to it's AWD, which isn't altogether inaccurate... but it was also the cars electronics and rear wheel steering that made it so fast. Because it was normally a RWD car that only used the front wheels when needed. The WRX doesn't have any such ability but rather it's 50/50 all the time, with no LSD up front.
Yeah. That isn't a problem. I have my 245's on a set of BBS's and they aren't outside the fenders or even close to rubbing anything (and I have my car dropped about 2 inches right now)... nowhere near as much as my Rota's were anyway. I think the Wide Tire Thread on NASIOC has pretty much covered everything a person could ever want to know about wide tires on a Subaru and they keep on growing! Ha ha. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=845228&highlight=wider+tire+thread
I agree. That's why I used "sustain" in my first post. Anyone can sling a car back and forth to obtain 1g+, but to hold it at the level is an entirely different ball game.
that's what i mean! but yea, what would be a factor to increase your entry speed at a corner without understeering? obviously driving skill would be #1, but what parts would help a driver initiate a turn at a faster speed?
Yes, the driver is the most important part of the equation. Just remember that a lot of understeer is caused by trying to go fast in, fast out. Almost any racer from any venue will tell you that slow in, fast out is what will win a race. I struggle with this myself. Because when I race, and the adrenaline starts pumping all logic tends to leave my head, lol. Second is tire pressure. Try running higher tire pressure in the rears than the fronts to see if you get the results you're looking for. Third is an alignment. From what Tom Hoppe (2004 stx champ) says, "try to go with as much negative camber as you can evenly get in the front, and as little as you can get in the rear (again, GENERAL rules)." Fourth is more suspension modifications. Camber plates and/or bolts, sways, better tires, etc.
Anti lift kit is supposed to help with turn in alot. Edit: also, with a bugeye, you might want to get some new steering rack bushings because they wear out quickly.
I hear that. I'm talkin about the STI's too... Maybe my memory is on crack...just found these numbers from a Sport Compact Car article: Stock 04 STi Skidpad: .91 G <-higher than I remember?? And here's stock STI versus some tuner cars: 200 ft. Skidpad Vishnu WRX .97g WRX STi .91g SPI WRX .91g STI Hunter .90g 700 ft. Slalom Vishnu WRX 71.9 mph SPI WRX 70.9 mph WRX STi 70.7 mph STi Hunter 69.4 mph
mod in this order and you should have no problem getting the grip you want: tires: wide and sticky max-performance summer swaybars: large and adjustable struts: adjustable 1 or 2 way you most definately do not NEED coilovers. another easy solution could be: r-comps...done. but plan on spending lots of money on rubber.
Big sway bars do not always increase grip. Getting the car in the peak of its camber curve is where all the magic happens. Matt
Here is a thread from clubwrx that details alignments. Maybe you can get alot of improvement in your alignment depending on where it is now. http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showthread.php?t=89767
so according to the reading, i want the highest positive caster for heavier steering feel right? i`m seeing the reality of the rack mod happening because i am about to close a deal on selling a house for the first time haha...
I have a g2x data aq system that should be here today, Ill let you know what our numbers look like. Matt
Im currently using the GTech RR and pc software to log my track and autocross fun. Works pretty good but the numbers get skewed unless you re-calibrate the pitch factors for stiffer suspensions. With my R-compounds on I normally pull around 1.12 Gs in the sweepers. I've had spikes as high as 1.25 or so in sharp transitions. I can get it to peak much higher by doing silly things with the steering wheel but thats just to make the numbers go up. With the street tires on i can pull around 1.05 in sweepers, peaks of around 1.15. Whats also fun to look at is braking force. With the R-compounds on and nice hot pads i can get around 1.05 before the stupid ABS kicks in. I have not tried it with the fuse pulled.
so it is possible to pull off 1g with street tires (of course would be very very wide and high performance), and springs instead of coilovers right? what is your opinions on RCE vs. SPT springs? i am hearing good things about the RCE springs, and it seems like nasioc praises the SPTs.. right now, i am almost certain that i will end up getting the yokohama prada-2s, whiteline FSB+RSB (still havent decided on which one to set stiffer... i want really stable handling, and most of my driving is done on the street, i`ll probably set the front to be stiffer), quicker steering rack, and probably a stronger top-hat to withstand the mods. i think i might need to change the control arms (b/c of an accident.. my car's steering is impossible to guess what it's going to do.. it follows the grooves on the road too much, and it's very scary when you're going 70-80 on the highway...), and of course to top it off, a GOOD alignment (try to get as much negative camber as possible on the front w/o affecting the brake performance specifically, and dial in the rear to have almost close to 0 degree in camber. <i want oversteer hehe>, it seems like i need to get the front to have a positive caster, and all toes set close as possible to zero. yup, i`m still learning and doing my homework about suspension & handling. it aint easy...
For street driving I'd take the money that you would spend on that quicker rack and get a set of struts or coilovers. Dont overlook the importance of upgrading the suspension bushings as well as part of the handling puzzle.
OK just got back from Barber, 1.69 G's in a hard downhill sweeper and 1.45 average gs through the other sweepers there. 1.39Gs of Braking. Thats on Hoosiers which technically are street tires lol