You shoulda just used my agx struts. You can still achieve a pretty decent alignment with gc8 stuff on wagons.
Lets go kill Mckenzietj then, I'll take the struts, you can have his wheels. Pros of the wide track: can use any front swaybar (seems most wagon bars top out at 22mm), will make a rear R180 conversion easier in the future, any coilover will fit perfectly, gobs of negative camber, being JDM tight using more STI hardware Cons: Lots of parts, might cost as much as better struts would, my lack of experience yanking axles and whatnot off of a car, lots of money, increases chance of rubbing, lots of car down-time for install.
Actually... Wagons can use STI fsb's perfectly fine. Just need new endlinks. Goixz can confirm. So can I. So you could go with a whiteline 27/29. Whiteline makes a 22mm adjustable fsb. It adjusts to 24mm. I have that one.
You know, the hub swap was lots of parts, but in the end the benefits have far far far outweighed the costs. Also, how many wagons do you know running around on a wide track down here?
Thing is, he has to do the widetrack in the front and back at the same time. If he does the rears first so he can aachieve a better alignment then it's going to cause his car to understeer with a wider track in the back.
Only one other guy in the country has done the wide track. I'm seeing some Konis near in the future. :sx:
Been a while since I've updated in here. I spun a bearing in my motor about a month ago, since then I've been compiling parts and selling older parts to pay for a slightly used JDM ver8 STI motor. The ver8 comes with a twin-scroll turbo system, VF37 stock turbo, the famed "big-port" heads and cams, intake and exhaust AVCS control, long-runner intake manifold, and slightly different pistons from the ver7 motors, oh yeah and factory balanced and forged bottom end. Everything is balanced to 8500rpm. I chose this motor over a 2.5 because when I replaced my transmission years ago I went with a very short gear ratio JDM transmission that always felt like it needed a higher redline. I dont mind sacrificing a little bit of bottom end for a killer topend punch; as is with the twin-scroll and AVCS it will have a lot more bottom end than any EJ205. What I've been telling people is imagine getting a 20G or similar turbo that wont make any boost until 4K rpm, but then you've still got another 4.5K of powerband before redline :naughty::naughty: My motor has 6K miles on it and should be in town by the end of this next week. Here's a dyno chart comparing how EJ207s typically dyno with some bigger turbos.
With the JDM engine paired with a JDM transmission these are the speeds I will attain by redline in each gear. With 8500rpm rev limit 1st - 44mph 2nd - 75mph 3rd - 109mph 4th - 154mph 5th - 192mph. With 7000rpm rev limit 1st - 37 2nd - 62 3rd - 90 4th - 120 5th - 158 I doubt these will be ideal shift points, especially on the stock turbo. The gearing felt much too short with the lower redline, especially since I would always shift before 7K due to a smaller turbo. This is the major reason for bad times with STIs and 6spds; the subaru 6spd is geared to match perfectly with the JDM motors and their 8K redlines. With the 2.5 motor you get a lot more low end grunt but the gearing was not lengthened to pair well with the different motor.
My goal is to have all of the kinks worked out so I can get a solid baseline at the Batlground dyno day Aug 4th. I've got a feeling that I'll be giving out a lot of rides.
Why are the bigger turbos falling flat on their face so fast after peak torque? They all seem to make about the same peak torque and they make peak HP around the same RPM, which is not something I expect unless there is a significant boost taper. From these plots, the SZ49 seems to be the best match.
I dont really know the answer to that. All of them should be able to hold boost until way past that. This was just a nice plot that I found a while back on nasioc, they might have maxed out the stock MAF or maybe they're tapering boost like you said. There are a lot nicer looking plots on nasioc from other guys that keep making power all the way to redline. My power goals long term for this car are for a reliable 380-400whp on pump gas. I'm sure that I'll be plenty happy on the stock turbo until then although part of me really wants to throw on a 75hp wet shot of nitrous.
Yeah, I wasnt expecting to need to so early but shit happens. When something breaks replace it with something better and stronger.
Sick. I still love the EJ207 options but I also crave that low end punch. Ej207 with a SZ55 should be fun looking at the SZ49. The SZ55 spools almost identical to the SZ49 from what Deadbolt told me.
Once I get the car back I want to get some more seat time in a USDM STI to see how the twin-scroll, slightly higher compression ratio, and AVCS effect the low end compared to an extra half liter. The gearing on my car should give me ~15% additional torque to the ground but thats more seat of the pants feel. I've got a 12.1lb flywheel that I'm putting on this motor so its going to want to rev to the moon. I know deadbolt has made a couple PE1825 clones from the stock VF37 just like how he made 1820 clones from VF22s. A twin-scroll SZ49 or SZ55 would be a lot of fun. Right now there arent very many twin-scroll turbo options but I imagine within the next couple of years it will be much easier to find them. Another line of reasoning for going with the ver8 is that if I tire of the stock turbo, or a worked stock turbo, I could still go with a rotated mount turbo kit and sell off the twin-scroll system.
First potential hangup: the twin-scroll adapter flange I bought from IAperformance doesnt look like it will fit at all with the Invidia DP I bought. Here's a pic of the bellmouth on the invidia DP. Here's a pic of the flange that I got. Right now my main option is to wait until the clip gets here (hopefully tomorrow) and just hack the bellmouth off the stock downpipe and weld it onto the Invidia DP I bought. Either that or sell the Invidia and buy a Nopi brand DP for dirt cheap and use it just for the piping since the bellmouth design wont matter. I also ordered a Fidanza 12.5lb lightweight flywheel today. If I can get the car up and running this week I'm going to dyno it on saturday but thats looking less likely by the day.
The opening don't match anywhere close. Also look at the bolt holes and imagine flipping it. They won't line up any where where it needs to be. I think the twin scroll turbo's have to have a bigger housing to utilize the dual wheel design therefore altering the bolt pattern. The real answer will be revealed when the actual turbo itself gets in Bobby's hands when he gets his engine.
no way will that fit. is there a different downpipe required for the twin scrolls or will the standard dp fit?
My motor is coming with a stock DP but it wont bolt up to a USDM cat-back. Looks like the turbo outlet shape is completely different so I'm just going to cannibalize the stock DP and my invidia DP to make one that will fit the twin-scroll as well as bolt up to the stock STI cat-back I've got. My car's going to be so quiet now. Fidanza flywheel arrived yesterday. 12.5lbs, looks great.
Yeah but its all the way back by the muffler so I doubt it'll do much for performance. It's claytons old one.
Not quite yet, the shipping company lost the motor for a little bit and then sent it back to Montreal but its on its way here.
Its some third party shipping broker that JDMSpecC4U uses so that their shipping prices arent ridiculous. Either way, the motor is here! Friday morning we're going to start putting everything back together.
The engine came with the engine harness and Bobby got a kit to make it work with the bulkhead harness. They were having a problem with getting the old pins out. I am sure the correct tool for the job would make it a snap but I don't have many tools for that kind of work.
he is a pro in my book! I worked with him on it most of the day and hope he helps with mine. If it ever happens...I need money.