Check out Autozone or Napa or one of those places. Generally brands like Duralast or Autozone brands or whatever are FTW. I had one in my very first car, a jeep cherokee, and it was unbreakable. Don't spring for an optima. From what I hear it's really not worth it.
I had a optima on my last truck.....I would recommend it, I thought it was worth the money...You get what you pay for in a battery....I think.....
Yeah I saw the Optima's. I was wonderring it they are over kill? They look great but as you stated "you pay".........
I HAVE to run Optima batteries or the like. I have to run sealed batteries since mine is in the trunk. It's lasted me 4 years so far and hasn't failed me yet and I pull a lot of voltage through the various gadgets in my car.
I had a red-top Optima but it died on me within a month on my STi. Turns out it was a bad battery. I switched to an Odyssey dry cell and haven't looked back since.
Holy cow. Relevant data found. must share. http://www.batteryfaq.org/ The site even has an explosion diagram of an Optima redtop. Hightlights:
As near as I can tell, there's only 5 kinds of batteries worth anything for cars to consider 95% of the time. The 3 types for most people: Duralast Gold(Autozone stores) Autocraft Titanium(Advance stores) Diehard Gold(Sears) For the dollar you spend, you're better off with these types than their 'regular' versions, so spend the extra $15 for it. All of these places have national serial number registry of the battery, so you don't have to keep the receipt. All of these batteries have a 3-year full replacement warranty, and 640 CCA (cold starting power). So the quality won't be a big difference. However, Diehard stands above the other two for 2 reasons: 1: their pro-rate warranty(after the full replace warranty expires) is 100 months (the others are 96 or 72) 2: Diehard makes a NORTH and a SOUTH version. This is important in places with average temperatures that break 89F regularly in summer, and even more important in those that break it in spring. The south version has fewer CCA, but has a different construct inside to let it survive heat longer, and will last longer overall. There are also 2 elite class batteries: Diehard Platinum (Sears) Optima (any store, top quality)
My truck has a diehard in it, its been in there for nearly 10 years now. Before that was a Goodyear-Gemini battery which, IIRC, was built by diehard. My GL-10 also has a diehard in it, it sat for 2 years doing nothing and still had a full charge.
Autocraft Ti FTMFW!! Plus, with their warranty, you can't go wrong. Manager at the Advance I bought it from told me if it ever breaks, or fails, they will replace it, no questions asked. He said even if the car were in a front end collision and the battery was cracked open or something of the like, it would be replaced. It's been flawless since I put it in the car 2 years ago.
I got the optima in mine since I have a system as well as wanting something to last. The bad part is that some of their warranties can be crap depending on which one you buy. The best you can get is 3 years replacement plus another 3 years pro-rate on top of that or 72 months on the Red top. The yellow top (car stereo one) only has like 12-18 months replacement and another 12-18 months pro rate depending on the size you get. That does kinda suck for such a premium battery. Also don't forget to make sure before you buy an optima that you get the one (usually special order) that has the pegs reversed.
I've had duralast on past cars, and I've been pleased with them, but I think I'm going Diehard this time. Guess those seats will have to wait...
I run Optimas in my offroad truck and they really are amazing batteries. Especially the deep cycle, Yellow Tops. But my truck will go for a few weeks without getting started and I run some pretty high amp accessories. Also, the fact that they are gel filled, they hold up alot better to harsh offroad vibrations. For situations like that, the Optimas are great but for a commuter car it may may not be worth the extra money. FYI, if you, or you know someone, with a business license it is pretty easy to set up a cash account with Batteries Plus. They give businesses a pretty decent discount.
I have had ZERO issues from my Optimas. They are pricey but they are all I have access to around here. If DieHard made a sealed battery that I can drive somewhere near me and pick (I don't know if they do or not) I would go with that one next time.
I've had good luck with the optimas, but they are heavy. We have some light weight battery kits coming in for the STI. I am not at the shop so I can't be posative on the price but I think they are right around $160.00. Thats for the whole kit with a billet tie down
I ended up just getting a Duralast gold today (after a series of suck exhibited by Sears @ Towne Centre, and discounting from Autozone). I thought it would look stupid, but the yellow top of the Duralast battery matches all the other yellow reservoir caps under the engine. Little things matter.
there is a problem. the negative battery post appears to be just enough smaller that my fancy terminal doesn't seat on it. Even after I tightened it all the way. What happens if the negative cable comes off the battery while going down the road?
You can go to any autoparts store and get an add on terminal and should be able to find one that fits
if i'm not working i can. yes. however, i am working and am trying to figure out how i'm going to get home after 10 tonight.
okay... lemme put this another way. Could someone tell if what would happen to my car, if i did manage to get it started and tried to head home, if the negative cable came off the battery? or could someone hand around the Glenridge connector until 11pm for me to help? -\ _ /-
sadly, its the one thing I don't have in my !#@! self-made roadside bag. (got super long jumper cables, little socket set, lights...)
Do you have an extra long rubber band, longer shoe laces string or a bungy cord? What I am thinking is if you could tie something around the battery that will tie down over that cable and provide some down pressure to keep it on there. I had to do it once in Chicago when it was a million below zero and the battery cable connector had corroded to the point of not staying on. I tied together my boot laces and tied them around the battery tying down what was left of the connector to the terminal. It held and it was a bumpy ride.
no bungies, and I can't find anything in my office since we moved over the weekend, otherwise i woulda tired scotch tape
You have probably already left work at this point, but you could wedge a paper clip between the post and the terminal.