Whiteline 22 or 24?

Discussion in 'Modifications & DIY how-to' started by WRXCoupe, Mar 10, 2008.

  1. WRXCoupe

    WRXCoupe Active Member

    02 bugeye sedan stock suspension. Daily driver. Should I do white line 22(swaybars) in front and 22 in the rear, or 24 in the rear?

    Thanks
     
  2. If you do a search there should be some info regarding this topic.I personally would not put larger in the back.I have 27 adj. on front and 24 adj. on rear.daily driver 06.
     
  3. calmnothing

    calmnothing Shlimp Flied Lice Supporting Member

    equal bars usually feels best on the street
     
  4. oneiguy

    oneiguy Active Member

    I have the Cobb sways and links(Front 25mm, rear 24-26). They feel good, and I drive around 35k a year.
     
  5. WRXCoupe

    WRXCoupe Active Member

    Actually the post inspired the potential buy. It does a fantastic job of defining the benefits it does not really recommend millimeter. Based on the reply it would appear that 24mm back and forth would be optimal?
     
  6. FTZ

    FTZ ^.^

    I personally like the feel of my Whiteline 27 front and Whiteline 26 in the rear.
     
  7. clemsonscooby

    clemsonscooby Active Member

    24-26mm Whiteline. There is not snap oversteer associated with it, even with aftermarket endlinks and on the stiffest setting. I ran only a 26mm rear bar for over 2 years and loved it. The bars don't have to be balanced, because there is a lot more weight up front. I would go with an even bigger bar up front to settle all of the rolling associated with the fat tranny and engine. It also depends on your dampeners and springs. If you are already very stiff there, it may not be necessary to go much more than 24mm, but I am talking about 300lb springs or greater.

    420 has an awesome setup.
     
  8. WRXCoupe

    WRXCoupe Active Member

    I am at stock springs, stock struts 61K. Would the 27front-26rear still apply? I will be doing white line end links and the rearmounting bracket.

    I could not find the whilte line front mounting bracket, is this necessary?
     
  9. clemsonscooby

    clemsonscooby Active Member

    The 27-26 does still apply then. If you had coilovers or something you might not want to go that stiff. The front mounts right to the subframe so no upgrade needed. The rears don't need to be upgraded either, I used it without any issues for years and I abused the hell out of my car.
     
  10. WRXCoupe

    WRXCoupe Active Member

    Ok that is great save me $100:)
     
  11. clemsonscooby

    clemsonscooby Active Member

    Make sure everything is installed when the car is on ramps, not jack stands. You want the suspension to be loaded when you re-tighten all the bolts. This will prevent you from making things too tight and then wondering why everything pops whens you around a corner. I would definitely consult the torque specs on these parts. If you go to the DIY section, there is a sticky that contains the Subaru Service Manual, then go to Chassis (I believe) and you should find the suspension stuff and specs.
     
  12. WRXCoupe

    WRXCoupe Active Member

    The best case situation is if I can get someone here who is knowledgeable to help me who is willing to school me, as apposed to going to a shop and yes I will still pay. Otherwise a shop will handle it.

    I do have ramps
     
  13. clemsonscooby

    clemsonscooby Active Member

    If you were close I would help. Its a quick install for the most part. Gotta pop your DIY cherry sometime... There are tutorials on scoobymods.com and probably a few other places that come with pictures. Its hard to hurt this stuff, so don't be scared.
     
  14. WRXCoupe

    WRXCoupe Active Member

    Yes I have broken many perfectly good cars:) You are right though sometimes (with good prep ofcourse) it's not as bad as it appears. Tool shortage is another issue.
     
  15. jjanari

    jjanari Member

    24 whiteline upfront (adj to 27 iirc) and 22 in the rear (adj to 24 iirc). kartboy endlinks. very noticeable suspension upgrade, even more so than my whiteline springs/tokico shocks upgrade. greatly reduced body roll w/these sways.

    pretty straightforward install.
     
  16. bluetwo

    bluetwo Active Member

    Like most I'd never go with the same size front and rear or with bigger in the rear than in the front.

    I have 27 up front and 26 in the rear and to me that's a really good setup. I'm running Tein SSP coilovers but I think a similar setup, perhaps with 26 front and 24 rear, would be great with the stock suspension.


    P.S. It seems like every time one of these threads comes up someone just has to mention oversteer or snap-oversteer... and it just doesn't apply to WRX's though. We're not talking about snap-happy mid or rear engine mounted cars at the limit in the rain and with our AWD system, snap-oversteer just doesn't frikin happen on anything less than a loose surface, suspension set-ups be damned (and yes I too exhagerated a little in this post). That's kind of my point though. When someone says snap-oversteer it's usually best to just take it for what it's worth and try to use your own best judgement. Personally I will always lean more towards conservative than dangerous when it comes to my 30,000 dollar street car investment.

    Now! What can happen, with a completely misguided suspension setup on a WRX is that you can loose that surefootedness that we all love and the car will start to behave more like a crappy RWD car, especially on slightly loose to slippery surfaces and you'll be a lot more likely to see oncoming traffic through the wrong window.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2008
  17. Mykl

    Mykl New Member

    Do you guys with the largish bars on the rear with the stock springs have a problem with hiking the inside rear on tight corners?
     

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