Hey guys - newbie question here. So I finally took the plunge and purchased a turboback for my 2006 WRX. I am going to have the shop install it and have been quoted 3 hours of work by the larger shops and a smaller shop on here quoted me 1 hour. How long does it typically take a shop to install a turboback? Do you guys know? Are there typically any challenges when installing it? Please advise.
We charge 3 Hours for turboback exhaust. Our Regular labor rate is $80.00 an hour. If you purchased products thru us you will receive 10% off labor. If you buy the heatwrap we will not charge for the time for install. In the 3 hour installation that also includes modification of the Headshield. If you are in need of an install please let us know. We will get you taken care of right away!
With some help you should be able to have it in in about an hour. Like Nicad said there are several of us that would be glad to help
Ask some of us on here to help. Muuuch cheaper that way. Its not that hard to do either besides the DP. Make a get together and see what you get.
Maybe you could get lucky and plan this for the same day as Bug-Rex's uppipe install. DON'T FORGET NEW GASKETS!!!
when you realize how much of a pain that stock heat shield is, let me know - i've got a cobb heatshield i can throw your way, too :wiggle: btw, 1 hour of install time is pretty good...almost worth it, imo
Yep. Just went to SoK and got them. I'll have a new "bigger" hoodscoop on too! Hopefully it doesn't rain...
I'm new on here and I haven't met anyone yet, other than Matt Ball. If you are near Acworth (Wade Green Rd.) I have a scissor lift and air tools if you want some help.Maybe you can rope in some other bodies as I'm old and fat. Contrary to some comments i've gotten, it actually has good access to the center of the car. I also have some sway bars and springs to install, if anyone wants to trade labor. Yes, I have a strut spring compressor. Fender opening roller too, btw.
Installation question This is the first I hav heard of the heat wrap when installing the tbe. How much does it cost and is it necessary for the install?
You would only need the heat wrap on the top portion of the downpipe. It would be completely optional and you can get the wrap for about $20-$40 depending on how much you buy and what company wrap you buy. Seriously, it is not hard at all to put on a turbo back exhaust.
umm...not exactly. You want to heat wrap anything that needs to be hot, such as the headers, the uppipe and the downpipe. Heat wrap helps to keep the heat inside the pipes. As the pipes heat, the air inside becomes less dense. Less dense --> faster flow --> faster spool....in theory... Heat wrap is also $52 for 50' (I just bought some last week), unless you find a good deal online. One package can probably get your uppipe and most of the downpipe done. Finally, you can have your pipes ceramic coated, which does the same thing as heat wrap, but does it much more efficiently. I'm actually coating and wrapping my uppipe and headers, just coating my downpipe, along with both the hot and cold side of the turbo. Btw, do the install yourself...you'll learn a lot more about your car when you get pissed at those two bolts that are a pain in the ass to get off the hotside of the turbo than you realize
Say Whaaaaaa? Your not saying that hotter air is better are you? It may give you faster flow and spool, but the air has less mass to it. Cold Air > Hot Air in every aspect.
lol, study up, son, not even close to right for intake temperatures, colder air is better (though not too cold, there is a magic number). Everything i just talked about was on the exhaust side. Since that faster flow --> faster spool doesn't see the combustion chamber again (unless you're driving in really fast circles), you want those exhaust temps to stay heated. Remember, you're just turning the hotside wheel w/ those hot temps, which then turns the compressor wheel, which then uses the intercooler to help lower the intake temps...
you are correct up until you said downpipe. at that point, the exhaust has already expended it's energy turning the turbine side of the turbo. wrapping the downpipe is done to combat heatsoak with TMICs. wrapping the cold side of the turbo won't do much. it is impossible to cool the air below ambient with an air-air intercooler, so leaving it unwrapped might be beneficial, as the intake charge will ALWAYS be hotter than ambient air temperature. you would actually have a small rate of heat transfer across the intercooler piping walls (losses to ambient essentially) also, the distinction between which is better between 'hot' air and 'cold' air entirely depends on which side of the engine you're referring to. intake side, colder is better. exhaust side, you want the exhaust gasses as hot as possible (within reason for obvious reason) to transfer as much energy to the turbine as possible.
Time to pitch in, it's best to wrap the down pipe till the transition at the fire wall for two purposes, heat off the firewall and second to keep the heat in to fire off any unspent gases at the first cat for better emissions. This helps those of us who have gutted up pipes and live in the clean air zone and as Nicad stated, heat soak for the top mount.
Don't cheat yourself, buy the stainless zip ties for the heat wrap, most kits don't come with them and half the places that carry the wrap don't carry the correct ties for the job. Summit and Barnett will have what you need in one place.
well you know what I'm fabbing up but don't say anything about it till it's done. Well the hint could be; Shaker Scuby or Scuby Shaker
fabbing up a 2" lift kit and throwing some 29's on next that would be BFGoodrich Mud terrains, got to keep company with the Ranger
I wanted to throw out a heat wrap negative. It can trap moisture and cause the DP to rust. Ceramic coating avoids that. BTW, to do a DP, 3 hours would be about right if you had never done it before. Someone who has could do it much shorter than that! In the world of book time I could believe the 3 hours.
Wow.. All this discussion but not much about the time. Most have said about 3 hours. So the quote that I got from a shop for 1 hour since they have done it a bunch is not true then?
lol, seriously? Your question has been answered plenty of times. Not to mention, since you didn't even know what heat wrap was you probably learned a thing or two in this thread...
I was only talking about the Turboback exhaust that he said he was changing out. If this thread said manifold back exhaust I would have advised him to wrap everything. Also, You can get good wrap from Pro Sport for like $25 for 50 foot roll.
ok. zen said 3 hours which is what I had mentioned Face was refering to DIY which wasn't my question You had said 1 hour was pretty good almost worth it Davidwrx was refering to another DIY All of this points to the fact that besides Zen and I am going to ignore your estimates because you do not have data to back your statements up. However, you are right about the heat wrap - I did learn something.
We charge 3hrs to do a full turbo back install. Thing to remember is that the stock downpipe can sometimes be pita to remove... studs can break, some bolts don't want to come loose etc. Nice thing though is our techs have probably replaced more downpipes than anyone around. We also carry replacement studs to swap out your broken one in the event one were to break. Also when installing the turbo back we use all new factory gaskets so you have the same gasket reliability as it came from the dealership, and not some cheap composite gasket. Lastly if you buy the parts from us we offer a 10% discount on labor and can even strap your car on the dyno afterwards for a discounted price to show the amount of power the car makes.
Estimates/Data...everyone that has posted in this thread has removed and installed many TB's in their times. It's just not that hard and doesn't really warrant the need for a shop (Sorry Tray and Doug!). Get under your car and learn something. Honestly, you are looking at like 8 bolts and 4 hangers. 3 hours tops alone...1 hour with guys that know what they are doing and if you have NO STUCK BOLTS! We are here to help!
+1. Its so much better to do it yourself. You will learn way more about your car than any shop can tell you because you will have a first hand account of the goings on under your feet. Get some of the guys on here to help you and spend about $40 on food and drinks, or spend a good chunk of money have a shop do it. Choose wisely. Never know when you are going to want more money for other mods.
You know what Drew, just let him pay somebody the three hours labor to do his swap, and be done with it. We've offered the help and pointers along the way and just doesn't seem worth the effort to offer any other help.
We charge 2 hours to do it. We charge $89 per hour in addition to that if we have to deal with seized or broken bolts. If you do it yourself be sure to have the tools to deal with the seized or broken bolts if they do occur. Dan Batlground.com 770-319-9605