I'll argue that Lucas is not good stuff to add to your oil. It foams and bubbles under extreme use. If you have to add something to your oil, you are using the wrong oil.
yeah i think its also a universal CYA (cover your (their) ass(es)) policy. by saying that 1qt every thousand miles is acceptable then they dont have to cover any engine issues related to oil starvation if its within those tolerances under warranty.
I've heard a lot of differing opinions on this. I've done a lot of automotive work for side money over the past several years, and I can make some comments in this regard based on experience. It is possible to safely switch a car over to synthetic oil at any point in its life after the break in point... whether it be at 5,000 or 100,000 miles, providing that the seals within the motor are not already leaking. If a car is burning oil, or already has a leaking seal, yes, synthetic will only make the leak that much worse due to the greater consistency of the molecule sizes present throughout the oil. On the other hand, if your seals are good, and your rings are well seated, chances are you will be just fine. I've switched many cars with over 75,000 miles over to synthetic with nary a problem. As for switching back to dino oil, there is NO chemical reaction that is going to occur and ruin your engine seals. If the car was running well and leak free with synthetic, it is a safe bet that you could switch back to a straight conventional oil without a problem. Granted, the oil itself may not be up to up to par with the synthetic in terms of lubrication qualities, but that is expected. If you really wanted, you could take a good motor and switch back and forth between the two types of oil 3 times a day, seven days a weak, and no seal is going suddenly give way as a result of the chemical differences. The above being said, I'm no tribologist, but I thoroughly believe in what I've written, and my personal experiences have proved it to be true thus far. Regardless, I won't be offended if anyone has a different opinion, and I'm not screaming "YOU'RE WRONG!" at anyone. Just wanted to provide some food for thought.
Shell Rotella T 5w-40 Synthetic blend every 3k miles since last 1.5 year. Zero consumption when i was on my vf-39 setup pushing 22psi+. Went through track day, no consumption. Recently went rotated, and still running strong. I saw very little 1/4 quart consumption after 2k miles and right pedal heavy driving (20psi+). Oil feels like it still has more mileage left on it at 3k use. Can't beat it at $25 for 5 quarts with such performance. It's one of the only oils in market that still has good bit of anti-wear in it (Ranked 2nd or 3rd). I am gonna run german 0w-30 Mobil 1 this winter and see how it holds up.
The anti-wear additives are what I am consistently seeing in my Rotella UOA's, so I can agree with you on that one. Compared to 0w30 GC.
Got it, figured it had something to do with that. Considering summer is on the way out think I should go for 30w or 40w? I seem to be averaging oil changes in about 3 month intervals right now.
I went 20k miles on Castrol 10w30 non synthetic in my old 280zx. I was trying to kill the car so I could justify getting a new one. Finally a front rotor came apart and it was going to be more than the car was worth to fix so I got a 300zx instead.
I did run the 0-40 euro mobil 1 when my block was stock, but have switched back to rotela. No problems with the 0w-40 but just changed because the rotela was cheaper.
Ok now that I've decided on rotella. 5w-30 or 0w-40? Considering I probably won't be changing this again until mid December that will mean it will start to get progressively colder along with a trip north in late nov.
So far Rotella = :bigthumb: got out there and changed it yesterday. Only annoyance being I didn't noticed how much was in one of those large containers of Rotella so I ended up having to make a very long trip to walmart to get another quart. :slap: