Well the reports are based solely off trend analysis. I would take what they "suggest/comment" with a grain of salt. The point is to start doing it every oil change or sample (after a track event for example) and build a trend that is unique to your STI. Then, and only then, you will be able to see how she's doing or if she is about to toast herself.
They pair well with the Swift Spec-R Springs, beyond that I've had them up in the mountains and I was pleased.
Painfully slow, been working on several other projects for paying customers instead. I was able to throw the Perrin intermediate pipe on yesterday in a hope to create a 3" piece of piping with a flex joint and still use my cobb muffler. Unfortunately, that is not the case. Until I take the cobb intermediate pipe to a shop and have the flange cut and a 3" and flex joint installed it will be sitting on the wall of the garage. My thoughts on the Perrin? The welds are not nearly as nice as the Cobb. The muffler design is slightly more slim, yet it feels heavier than the Cobb. I did not measure it, but the tip has to be 4". I cannot find any additional information on the catback as Perrin has changed their design. I was impressed with their TMIC, but unfortunately I am not so impressed with the catback. Oh well, it will have to do until I figure out what the heck I am going to do :rofl:
I data-logged the car after installing the helix to double check on everything as well as to have a log to send over to SS for review. I expected some loss in boost with the move from catless to catted. Logs show some disappointment...16.5lbs @ almost 100% WGDC. What does this mean? Ideally this means one of two things: One -- Super duper JDM cracked waste gate on the vf-39 or Two -- one if not many more leaks. I set out to determine which of the two options it may be and ended up building this guy. I had reviewed several of the "designs" out there but I was not happy with the end result. This one is simple, straight forward and threaded (no drilling required). It will slip over the accordion tube with ease and will not leak. The cool part is that if you have FMIC you can use this on the inlet as well by simply removing the 3" to 2" adapter I have on there. It was fairly cheap to build but the parts would be even cheaper through McMaster-Carr. I may build a couple for the club so that anyone who needs to borrow one can come and get one for the day. I tested at approximately 5 psi and found an immediate leak located at the BPV to TMIC. Unfortunately, I do not have another gasket for this area so I will have to go pick up a replacement from the dealership next week. Hopefully this is the only leak that is there. Once I replace the gasket I will throw some smoke into the system and try again :sx:
This post updates post #809. I had originally thought that the leak was caused by a bad gasket between the BPV and the flange on the TMIC. I replaced the gasket on Saturday and re-tested. I still could feel a leak...and a bad one at that. I did not have the smoke machine handy so I used the ol soapy water. What happened next was the equivalent of a whale surfacing and clearing its blow hole :rofl: The leak is inbetween the TMIC core and the BPV flange welded to the TMIC core. I have a photo incoming to illustrate where it is occurring...visually.
The best way to fix this is going to be a Front Mount and a not sissy sized turbo...aka GT35R or bigger
That's an easy $20 fix. Find a very good aluminum welder and reweld it. And by very good I mean very good. Breel? Nicad?
I am not sure how you will be able to weld it? There is not exactly a lot of clearance in there. I am under the impression that the flange was welded on before the entire ic core was assembled.
True, problem is/was that I was not a fan of my turboxs tmic and sold it. Not really interested in reliving that under-the-hood-fitment-nightmare again.
you can pick up ebay fmic for as much as a decent tmic...and I know Ball has a core, I had to buy an ebay kit JUST for the piping edit - get this
The Bad : Perrin informed me that the TMIC issue would not be covered under warranty. I am a bit displeased to say the least as it is clearly a defective product. Additionally, it is in an extremely difficult area to fix. So, let's just say I will not be purchasing another Perrin product. Thanks guys! :unamused: The Good :bigthumb:: Juston Poole of Six Star service upgrade my Cobb Catback to a proper 3" with flex joint. This is something I have been wanting to do for a while now and I finally had the time to drop the car off to have him take care of it. He's a great guy and a pleasure to deal with, read my review here. I have several more small random goodies to add to the journal. Always a matter of time!
Yeah I quit buying Perrin product a while back. Matter of fact the only thing Perrin on my car now is the radiator shroud.
Yeah, I will go ahead and pull their TMIC and their crank pulley. I am not upset about it, just ticked off at the fact that I view this as poor quality control and bad business practice. Eyeing a Spearco TMIC right now, we'll see. Izzy_the_impreza bought the Perrin catback off me for his wagon. Glad he is enjoying it!
I am not a fan of the KB knobs. I have several knobs, and I think it is a close tie between OEM STI Ti Ball and this ASpec for the favorite. I had Chris @ Lathe Werks put a brass insert in my oem sti ti ball and the added weight is great. If I have a free minute, I will post photos of both today. Here is the current shift knob collection. And no, I have no idea why I have so many. I guess I just like to collect them. 1. OEM MY2004 STI Knob 2. OEM MY2005 STI Knob, rewrapped with Alcantara 3. OEM Type-RA 6 Speed Delrin Knob (Black) 4. OEM STi Titanium Sphere, reworked with brass insert and burnt for coloring 5. WC Lathe Werks Aluminum 2" Sphere 6. WC Lathe Werks Copolymer 2" Sphere 7. ASpec Titanium Sphere Yes we do http://www.jpmcoachworks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=43_46_85&products_id=111
holy crap you knob whore!:rofl: i actually pmed wclathewerks about putting in a brass insert in my black sti delrin knob yesterday btw the boot really matches the knob too
GC was my first oil analysis performed by Black Stone. For the last two or so years I have been running Rotella T 5w40 in the Summer and GC 0w30 in the winter. I do not recall this being a problem the last two years, but recently with the sudden drop in temp the car is a bit less happy with the "heavier" Rotella. It just takes a few more minutes to warm up.