No it feels like nudie magainze day when it is warm :rofl: The only thing I have noticed lately may be some slight valve tapping on a cold startup (Ambient <30F). I first noticed this when I had the car parked for 2 weeks during my emissions passing crapola. I chalked it up mostly to the fact that the car is just getting older. At 84,000 I really do not see, feel or hear any problems with the motor itself. I would like to see the car go twice that (160,000 for those who cannot multiply) and right now I am confident it will get fairly close. The key thing to remember about my STI and my UOAs is that my car is daily driven and it is parked outside. I do my best to keep it regularly maintained etc, but it is certainly no garage queen
Magnesium, calcium and Molybdenum drastically changed. What does that mean as far as the oil and motor is concerned? Edit.....NEVER mind I'm reading it backwards....saw the dates at the time. So the GC has a lot less of magnesium, calcium, and molybdenum. Still what does that mean?
As I understand it, Magnesiumand Calciumare both detergents or dispersant additives. Molybdenum is an anti-wear additive that helps strengthen steel and other metals IIRC. I have been under the impression that the higher the Moly count the better.
Guess we'll just have to wait and see. They'll be going in the pile of crap that needs to be installed soon.
Some of the other stuff that needs install. Still missing a couple bushings from the bodacious bundle though.
Speaking of TIC, I shot Clint an email asking for the ideal swaybar setup and setting for the shocks. He suggested the following: We'll see how she feels. And FWIW, here is my current setup: Springs: Swift Spec R Camber Plates: PDE Struts: OEM Type RA 4 ways Sway, Front: Whiteline 27-29, BSF36XXZ Sway, Rear: Whiteline 22-24-26, BSR37XZ
Well, I got the fronts installed tonight before I left the shop. The driver's side took about 15 minutes. However, the passenger side was a royal pain. Two problems slowed progress to a damn near standstill: (1) the top caliper bolt was seized / mega over torqued and (2) the rotor was seized to the hub. These two problems exemplify what makes a Subaru a Subaru. #1 was solved with several gorilla brute force attempts and #2 came loose by using the bolt trick. Unfortunately it took me 30 minutes to find a bolt that would work :unamused: So, here's my advice to you (otherwise known as facts you should already know): - Always spray all bolts with PB Blaster, WD, etc. - There is no such thing as a breaker bar that is too "big" - Creativity is key to not punching your fender - Caliper bolts are torqued to 80 ft lbs