Does anyone have these tools they wouldn't mind lending/helping out with? I am considering picking up some "throw aways" from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/quick-connect-compression-tester-95187.html http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester-94190.html Total price would be around ~$80 - so about the cost of 1 Compression/Leak test at a shop. I am just noticing too many little things....could be in my head but would feel better getting it checked out: White Smoke out of oil filler tube Blue/White Smoke out of tail pipe occasionally Perceived small losses of power at boost
I picked up mine from northern tool for something like $40. We've used it on three cars now and it's worked great, easy to read and consistent test to test. If you're going to do a compression test, you might as well get a new set of plugs, too...
Odd I've found that a pressure gauge with a check valve in it even at the cheapest levels is pretty reliable especially when just testing between cylinders on a car. The actual number is kind of a non issue. Its really hard for most people on this board to justify a Snap-On Compression tester for home use. I mean I've got one but then I've got more tools than any mechanic I know.
Yeah, I have heard conflicting information about what the dealer checks however and as far as I know they are unlikely to do a compression test. I wanted to go in informed (if it failed the test) but maybe it would be better just to bring it in? This is how I understand it. Even if it doesn't read the "correct" value all it needs to do is read the same across the board then I can compare the range.
While the numbers on the cheaper gauges may not be quite exact, what really matters is that they all read similar from cylinder to cylinder.
Damn I have to agree with Sharif on this one. If I'm going through all the effort to check a Subaru, the numbers better be right. With that being said the we have compared the cheap one and the Snap-on and they were equal in numbers but that may be a hit or miss. Kind of like Fords, if it was built on a Wednesday, you stand a pretty good chance of having a decent auto.
In many cases you are right, however, if an engine is consistent with 30% leakdown across all cyclinders...that is a tired motor, and although a cheap gauge might be consistent between cyclinders, it can still lead to an erroneous conclusion on the health of an engine.
A lot of people on iwsti and nasioc have compared and find no difference as well I was mostly hoping someone already had some....
Thanks for that....even though I didn't say anything about a leakdown tester. You only need a leakdown tester if you are coming up with bad compression numbers.
while most of the time this is true, i've heard of instances where a compression test read solid but the leak down test showed flaws. Culprit was a cracked ringland that was still seated in the correct spot so as to not affect the comp numbers. Remember too, a cold engine test will read slightly lower than a warm engine test.
lol - don't be so jewish, they're cheap and you will definitely get your monies worth out of it. I would compression test your motor every time you change plugs, it only takes an extra 10 minutes or so. Besides, the kits come with universal plugs that can be used for just about any make / model.
You beat me to it. I've tested many engines with good comp numbers, but poor leakdown. And yes, an engine will run with 30% leakdown.
the dealership will do a leakdown and compression test if it needs to be done. if you are having the problems that you say you are having you should bring it in. bring it to SOK, ask for me to work on the car and i will personally do these test for you as long as you can leave the car with us for a while. we may even be able to give you a loaner. call SOK and ask for steve and talk with him about the problem you are having if you decide you want to go this route