Apologies in advance if I'm ill informed but I've been wanting to get involved with the auto cross scene for awhile, but can't find any information about 2014 season, novice orientation, etc. any insight would be much appreciated
Give it another month to month and a half and they will post up the information on the soloatlanta forum. I would also recommend figuring out how to get added to their emailing list. I would tell you but its been 6-7 years that I've been getting them so I dont remember how I started getting them. They send out reminders for events and important information about the events. http://www.scca.com/solo/content.cfm?cid=44517 http://forum.soloatlanta.com/ While google searching, some of the sites arent updated... the forum is the best source of info.
Try http://soloatlanta.list-manage.com/subscribe?u=551931cbf1270aeeb03e95d87&id=526c0def33 to sign up for notifications. Last year first event was early March.
hit up Superdude, he should be one of the more informed members when it comes to autox along with Pat at Allpro
I'm just now reading this. Yeah, the season's schedule isn't up yet. There's going to be a Test N Tune / Novice day probably late Feb, but it hasn't been solidified yet. Do you know what class you fit in yet? If you've done nothing to the motor or change the boost, but have coil-overs and/or 2 Sway Bars you're in STX. The Stock Class is changing big time this year, so I need to read up on the new rules. But they're allowing wider wheels and some suspension changes. Besides the ATL Region for auto-xing, there's also the Tire Rack tour that comes to our region a few times a year. They offer a different format of auto-xing. Here's the schedule for that. http://www.scca.com/solo/news.cfm?cid=51705 This is the format they use, it's called a Match Tour. http://www.solomatters.com/2013/12/match-tour-a-users-guide/ What other questions do you guys have?
I posted a link to the rule book... :coolugh: In the 2014 rules draft there are some model years of the WRX (non-STi) in STU as well. I just dont remember which ones. I think, I say I think, its the '11+ that are.
I'm hoping to be joining in with my car this season. Will be fun to transition from being 'back seat ballast' in my bro in laws car to actually learning something
It’s a simple question of weight ratios. A 54-year survey of 26,285 European Swallows captured and released by the Avian Demography Unit of the University of Capetown finds that the average adult European swallow has a wing length of 12.2 cm and a body mass of 20.3 grams. Because wing beat frequency and wing amplitude both scale with body mass, and flight kinematic data is available for at least 22 other bird species, it should be possible to estimate the frequency (f ) and amplitude (A) of the European Swallow by a comparison with similar species. With those two numbers, it will be possible to estimate airspeed (U). Therefore, the average cruising airspeed velocity of an unladen European Swallow is roughly 11 meters per second, or 24 miles an hour. :wiggle:
What car you bring to the races? The first link in the second post has the rules. The 2014 is a draft still, but it's 99% final. This is the first thing to understand when looking up your car. "If a modification is not specifically authorized in this or previous sections of these Rules, it is not allowed." If it doesn't say it's ok, it's not ok. This is from pg. 70 in the rules. Street definition starts on pg. 69. Start there to find out where you're fitting. Street Touring, which is what I run in - STX, allows coil-overs, larger wheels, strut bars, it's pretty liberal on all the suspension parts. No boost changes, though. You can have the car tuned, just no boost changes from the OEM settings. You can do a Hi-Flow cat in the DP, everything after the turbo can be swopped out. I run a 3" turbo-back with a Cobb hi-flow cat. This is for both STX and STU class with covers 99% the Subarus racing. Hope this is helpful.
Oh and I heard that there should be schedule up for Solo Atlanta by weeks end:sx: Here is where they will post it up http://www.soloatlanta.com/blog/?page_id=703 or just go to http://www.soloatlanta.com and click schedule.
Once you go HP+ you'll never go back. You just deal with the looks from people on the street holding their ears at stop lights.
I view the squealing as a safety feature, gets people out of the way quickly! On a serious note, I dramatically got that squeal to go away with a JAR not packets of brake grease. On the sti calipers, greasing the pins along with the shims got rid of a lot of the high frequency squeal. Granted when they are out of temp they still make noise, but I feel the performance is worth the noise. When bixs ran hp blues, those sound like dump truck brakes
Its true, they are a GREAT bang for the buck. Everyone does look at you and your car like you driving around a junker that needs to be worked on though. lol
I don't know what I did, but I never had the noises that everyone complains about when I upgraded to the HP+ in my RS.
I will be bringing the BRZ out. No engine modifications but a full catless headerback. Interior will be stripped down from the drivers seat rearward. My 18x10 wheels is what will probably put me in STX...:eek3: (I think the rules say you can deviate from factory width by 1.5 inches.)
no removal of any interior in ST classes. kind of sucks, but it's about weight reduction. just don't bring up the no cat thing and you'll be fine
yeah i think im going to be stuck in SM, which is fine, I'm not there for competition, more fun and learning.
That's a good question. I'm not sure about braces. I've never read into it. This goes for everyone that's new-ish to the sport. The first 2 years you learn how to drive, you think you're doing it well now, but you're not. And that's not meant to be cocky. There's more going on in your head, then with the car. Just the simple art of listening to the sounds your tires are making changes everything. Looking ahead is the single most important thing you can do. Practice on the road, find your apex turning into a parking lot and see if you can carry your speed without upsetting the tires or using your brakes. Memorize the pot holes each day on your way to work and see if you can set up your right or left wheel to just graze over it. These little, I'll call them technics, get your brain use to finding the the apex on course, but at higher speeds.
Good advice! I've never actually been to any of the dinner meets so I'm excited to get to know all of you and learn from your experiences. I've driven my WRX like a grandpa the majority of the time I've owned it :eek3:
I've never been to an autox even that hasnt had loaner helmets. Motorcycle helmets work as well, I use one. I Am going to have to buy a new helmet next year though because mine is M2005.
They usually have a few for those that don't have one. They leave them at the front before you get on the track (since they are limited in number i assume you use them when you are out on the track and return it so the next person can use it)
We have helmets. They're loaners, so if you can find a cheap or slightly used one for a good price grab it. Just sayin'... Not all Motorcycle are ok, just to be clear. Pg.42 of the rules: All helmets meeting the latest or two immediately preceding Snell Foundation standards (SA2010, SAH2010, SA2005, SA2000, M2010, M2005, M2000, K2010, K2005, K98), SFI standards 31.1, 41.1, 31.1A, 31.2A, 41.1A, 41.2A or British spec BS6658-85 type A/FR are acceptable. I've had to look all this up a million times, I know my way around that rule book.
Unless its REALLY cheap I would recommend avoiding purchasing the *2005 models because they are due to expire in 2015 I believe. Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the SNELL helmets stay good for 10 years.
What rotors are/did you run? I've tried the Hawk Silent Slotted rotors and now I have DBA Slotted. The Hawk's were quieter, but they only lasted as long as HP+ pads did. Both send sparks on course. It's kind of cool to watch
Yes. 10 Years. Good advice. SA2010 or higher is ideal. This is the cheapest I'm finding right now. http://tinyurl.com/pnksguu This is what I use, it's only M2005. I might not be able to go onto RA with it. If you're thinking you might do some track days, go SA. http://www.soloracer.com/pyroopenfacem.html
Since I am in this situation too, I took a quick look at the '14 rules - seems like a CarLab X-Brace is just a triangulated Strut Bar that bolts to a bulkhead and the rear uprights by the way this described and this configuration does not seem specifically excluded. 12.18 STRUT BAR A transverse member connecting the upper or lower suspension mounting points at the front or rear of the car. Strut bars may be mounted only transversely across the car from upper left to upper right suspension mounting point and from lower left to lower right suspension mounting point. A two-point strut bar fastens only at the left and right suspension pointing points. A triangulated strut bar has a third area of attachment at the chassis (e.g., at the fi rewall/bulkhead). All connections to the vehicle must be bolted. No connection point to the chassis can be welded. It's been far to long since I have looked at the Solo Rulebook or looked at this topic specifically. Also thanks to Superdude for his advice below this original topic:bigthumb:
So, I've been wheel shopping lately. What are the chances that the 2014 rule book will allow me to have something wider than the stock tire width in STU?
There's 2 ways to answer this. 1. Tires shall have section widths up to and including the following: STX (AWD), STU (AWD) – 245 mm This is pretty much every Subaru. 2. Any wheels are allowed with widths up to the following: STX (AWD) – 8.0”, STU – unlimited So the wheel is limited to the tire width of 245mm, in STU. I run 245/40 on 17x8 RPF-1s. Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1, which are now ZII. That's pretty much the only choice. Hankooks side-wall isn't stiff enough. And the BFGoodrich g-Force Rival isn't' good wet.
Hmm great info Chip, sorry I guess I should start reading the rules soon. By the sound of that, it seems I may be looking for an xbrace one day, probably will help tighten up my car and get it closer to rebalanced with my new tire setup
Have you replace the steering rack bushing with Whiteline's, yet? This is a huge improvement with initial turn-in. Get's the mush out quickly. Very cheap improvement.
You are the guy I ran into at Moe's the other day right? haha See that is my conflict, the GRs come with fairly light 18x8.5 wheels wrapped 245\40 Dunlop SP Sport 600. What's the treadwear limit for ST classes? I think last time I looked it was 180 or 200?
Those will be going in once I start putting the car back together. But yes, I'm really looking forward to getting those in.
They are a pain to install but I will 2nd their performance. GREAT money spent. I put some on my '04, the stock bushings had holes in them and I removed the whole bushing without even loosening a bolt. This was with 60,000 miles on the car.
I can say that notwithstanding that the '05-later OEM rack bushings are said to be better than the 04's, I could still tell the difference since I added them the very last to my setup [Jeff's is identical to mine other than this component]-re-set of alignment was needed, BTW
FYI guys this is just the definition of what a strut bar is, it by no means that it is legal for all class. STX and STU rules state on pg 80: G. Strut bars per Section 12 are permitted with all types of suspension, subject to the following constraints: 1. A 2-point strut bar may be added, removed, modifi ed, or substituted, but only with another 2-point strut bar. 2. A triangulated (3-point) strut bar may be removed, modifi ed, or substituted; substitution may be with either a triangulated or a 2-point strut bar. The connection to the chassis (e.g., fi rewall, bulkhead) must be in the standard location. 3. Lower suspension braces must be attached to the lower suspension pickup point locations on the chassis within 2” (50.8mm) in any direction of the actual suspension attachment to the chassis. 4. Except for standard parts, no connections to other components are permitted. Additional holes may be drilled for mounting bolts. Only “bolt-on” attachment is permitted. Interior trim panels may be modified to allow installation of strut bars. Holes or slots may be no larger than necessary and may serve no other purpose. This does not permit any modifications to the frame or unibody beyond the allowed mounting holes. H. Longitudinal (fore-aft) subframe connectors (“SFCs”) are permitted with the following restrictions: 1. They must only connect previously unconnected boxed frame rails on unibody vehicles. 2. Each SFC must attach at no more than 3 points on the unibody (e.g., front, rear, and one point in between such as a seat mount brace or rocker box brace). 3. SFCs must be bolted in place and not welded. 4. No cutting of OE subframes or floorpan stampings is permitted. Drilling is permitted for mounting bolts only. 5. No cross-car/lateral/triangulated connections directly between the driver’s side and passenger’s side SFCs are permitted. Connections to OE components such as tunnel braces or closure panels via bolts are allowed and count as the third point of attachment. No alteration to the OE components is permitted. 6. SFCs may not be used to attach other components (including but not limited to torque arm front mounts or driveshaft loops) and may serve no other purpose. With this, I do not think that the CarLab X-Brace would meet this part of the rules for ST_ but maybe in the modified classes and it is definitely not allowed for any stock class.
I got those monday. Them, the HP+, stop tech brake line, and Moto 600 are all going in this weekend:sx:
sorry for the multiple post, I am just now getting caught up on this thread. This is for the new street classes (former stock classes). I do not think that ST_ is change form 140 to 200 for 2015.
I'm courious about the brakes lines. and how big of a difference they'll make. I havn't done this yet. and what's a moto 600?