2013 STI Rotated Turbo Project

Summit Racing is in McDonough down 75 south

Barnett off Memorial in ATL would be better though

 

They are pretty good about shipping too.

I will be making a trip down to Summit tomorrow morning if you want to place an order and have me pick it up. PM me because you will have to use my name

 

ait pigtail 12102620 or 1P1016 or PT307 or HP4420 found at autozone special order, or the PT307 is a AC delco number so any GM dealer, or rock auto

AIT sensor ACR-12V-3 (stamped on sensor) GM part number is 5744430 which can be cross referenced on autozone or rock auto.

I think they are about $15 each. Bung will have to be sourced but that will also depend on what material your I/C pipes are.

Did you ever do an AOS?

I know I am making the lines for my turbo now and had to source -8 lines to fit the crawford aos. I am going cheapy and just using the silicone rubber hose with push lock fittings since I only have AN fittings on one end of each hose.

I have had to search a little harder for the M14x1.5 to -8 adapters for the water lines.

Also consider running a oil filter in line to the turbo. Since I cannot use the P&L line on the WRX heads I am making 2x -4 sections with either an FP inline filter or a peterson 700 filter to save the turbo.


EDIT:

Kelly can make you an intake the hard thing will be knowing the routing. I know mine hits the coolant tank on the manifold so I have to move it or buy his fancy pants one.

or

KStech has a bunch of random sized intakes and routings that may work.

Maybe buy the filter and clamp it to the turbo until you get everything where you want it in the bay. I may be selling my AEM 4" filter to be lame and get a different color one.

 

You can keep the banjo screen. Its just not serviceable, its small and can clog and its also hard to get to. I'm just a little over cautious with my new gtx turbo after having my blouch rebuilt twice in the 1000 mi I used it.

FP says to give their journal bearings all the oil you can, other places I have read .006" if memory serves me.

.0035 for small GT turbos
.006 for GT40 and larger as well as T3/T4

 

run an inline filter and my understanding is no restriction needed

 

I think journal bearing turbos you want to have no restrictions on. Only ball bearing turbos need a restrictor in the oil feed line

 

Check with element tuning, Phil ran his 65 turbo rotated and it looks like yours, I think it is essentially a journal bearing 35r

Tell him you bought a used kit that was incomplete. He offered very few rotated kits but I am almost positive they were JB.

I also read something about subaru oil pressure being high so it may need a restrictor, thats why I recommend asking Phil

 

It is either 1/8" NPT or 1/4" NPT to a barb. You can find them at any Ace Hardware and maybe Lowes/HD.

 

all the fittings are 1/8 NPT

 

you use an accessport?

if so you can just monitor IAT on there to determine which two wires (depin one and the temp will drop to -37). If I recall it is the first or last pair on the plug just can't remember which side.

 

I don't think it matters.....all the dynos put the sniffer in the tailpipe. Your stock o2 should be the core basis for ECU readings.

 

If you want a permanent afr gauge it needs to be after the turbo 18-34" or something, but with subarus thats confusing since the turbo is so far from the heads. I've had on right in the bell mouth, about 18" from the hotside and seen some a few inches in front of the stock one.

It cannot be in the uppipe and the pressure against the turbo wheel will vary and cause inconsistencies.

The lady whose GR I helped build got her bung welded at mieneke or something.

 

You don't need the secondary one really and many use that bung.

 

Gangsta those ets FMIC's ain't no joke. Did you get the sweet piping that runs under the intake manifold? Not sure how it'll fit with the UR kit but know that they make a couple different hotside pipes for garrett and precision turbo and stock and rotated location. So if it doesn't fit they were good about swapping it out.

Also I have a question. Why did you make your water lines that way with the barb fitting?

I was going to run a m14x1.5 to -8 male from the turbo to a -8 female pushlock fitting and then just use -8 silicone hose so I could clamp the other end to the existing subaru fittings.

I just didn't know if there was a specific reason for the way you did yours that I may not have considered.

 

It wont make a difference with the water lines except for looks.

 

FMIC in yet?

 

Are you sure you didn't just want to go watch a 1000hp GT-R on the dyno? LOL

 

Hybrid boost control? let me know how that works I wanted to try it this round.

Also have fun cutting that bumper. don't cut along the black part on the inner grill or you'll remove too much. its a pain but its just trial and error, took me about 5hrs and still got more off the sides than I'd have liked.

Stole this from my friends but here's what it fits like


There's the cover back on

 

Open dump FTW!

 

lol - I think you're one step ahead of me... my wife told me our son won't be aloud in my M3...

 

Looks like the ABS is gonna be in the way. Can you shift it closer to the fender with some ingenuity? You can push those lines a little as long as you don't kink them. This is what I like the Tbolt kits....they allow you to actually twist the turbo itself for clearance.

 

Can you move the ABS much? I know on my old 04 you couldn't move it without a lot of fussing about on those hard lines. I didn't like bending them too much due to easily kinking them.

 

Please dont do a mesh screen...just run a 45 degree silicone hose off of the turbo to your piping. That looks like it will do the trick. Also, you could just get a reducer and run 3.5" pipe for the inlet.

 

Mesh screen on a daily is asking for a damaged turbo down the road. 3.5" inlet is PLENTY.

 

You still have the beater CRV?

If you need to click on those pics I posted and check the album there are some other pics as we did the build with the ets kit. It sits a bit further back (downpipe problem) and higher (intake problem)

I know the GD downpipes are shorter than the GR ones but I didn't think it was in the engine bay section, I thought it was more towards the catback.