Who rebuilds journal bearing turbo's in the atlanta area? I found an old reference to BNR Supercars or something in Alabama, but he ignored my emails so forget that. King has this "Deadbolt" 20g (probably the super-zilla TD06-SL2 wheel one) but deadbolt has been, well, dead for some time now and this one has some hefty shaft play. The wheel's don't touch the housings but it's still more I think then would be advisable to install. There is <0.10" (smallest I can measure) between the wheel and housing when it's all the way played to one side. I need to get the Maddad whisper because this hacked up 3" cat back to STI muffler Meineke weld job is driving me INSANE since it hits the axle all the time and rubs the ground when backing out of places because of how horribly the guy mounted it. Need to rebuild this turbo or get a decent one to replace my TD04 that is struggling big time. Need to get an aeromotive 340 or something similar in output. Need to get some DW 850's or whatever will be needed. Need to take off my dash compartment lid and send it to BNA to have him make me a triple pod. Once most of that is done I need to get with Joel to finish tuning it when I have all those new parts to put on since we never finished the tune on it now and it shows. OL/CL transition is pretty rough and since I swapped from the stock BCS to my 3 port the WGDC's are all over the place.
Call BNR instead of emailing. 205-640-1193 Deadbolt was the best in the biz......hated he had to go out of business for his health. Otherwise Blouch.
James I feel you on the STI Catback. I've tried many hanger configurations and I keep hearing it bang around when I hit bumps and back out. I am contemplating on taking it off, selling it and putting that money towards a Maddad Forester fitment whisper. Have you thought about just going VF34 or VF48? I am currently running a VF48 (04 STI topmount) on my 07 and haven't had any real issues. According to the previous owner, it put down 273whp / 268 torque which is plenty to keep me happy.
Thanks! Yeah I did consider a VF but honestly they cost as much used with low miles in decent shape as a 20g does, and I do worry about the huge torque spike of the VF's down low (with my driving style) on the 4EAT vs a more ramped up curve of a 20g or FP green sized turbo. Since I already have CP drop in's I was thinking that 350-400 should be doable without much grief. Stock head bolts but meh, it's been done plenty of times.
Ha, he just replied actually. 375$ to rebuild. Hmm that plus what I would owe King for it I might as well get an FP green brand new (on sale for like 700$)
I understand that. Plus being that you have a built block, why not get your money's worth out of it. Plus since it's not the weak 5-speed, the 4EAT can handle the stress and pretty cheap to replace if it does go boom with an IPT built tranny.
Thinking about this as a compromise: http://www.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTSUB71HTA&Category_Code=WRX-Turbo
Heh just not sure i'll use it to it's full potential and endure lag for no reason. Although I haven't heard that green to be all that laggy to be honest. I'll have to wait for them to have more of them in the stock housing size since I don't want to buy their 250$ inlet tube as well.
Put my hallman pro RX MBC on the car last week. I like it a LOT better then an EBC, just my preference. I hate the flutter of the solenoid and I like modulating the boost with my foot in a more "mechanical" way, especially on an auto. TD04 is definitely dying though, and the tune being only partially complete leaves some fueling issues so I'll get that sorted with Joel when I go get my oil changed up at allpro.
What would be the easiest way to go topfeed? I already have the injectors so I don't want to buy bigger side feed's. Plus side feed's suck lol. Does anyone have some topfeed rails / lines they would want to sell or trade?
Let me know a price Justin for both. Might just scoop those up. I had the TIC composite ones on my STI to prevent heat soak of the intake. Worked pretty well.
And also I was planning on just getting another Aeromotive 340 since it worked so well in my STI. However i'm not sure what the basket looks like on the forester. Which part # should I get? The nipple center, offset, I have no idea lol.
Sweet. I'm putting this on the list of things I need to get to put the 20G on there. I'm debating getting a JDM intake manifold that is a one piece design (no TGV's at all) for the switch to topfeed. Folks say you net 5-10whp just from the swap to that manifold even on stock turbo setups.
Been thinking about a 6spd swap, all the other things i'd like to do to the car and weighing the cost(s). Almost seems like it would make more sense to find a blown motor donor car or something like that and do a complete drivetrain swap (subframe, axles, etc). Reason I think that is eventually i'll need brakes and tires, I still have the disc's and pad's I was going to put on the STI before I sold it (unless someone wants to buy them?) so that's paid for. Going to STI hubs would mean new wheels / tires anyway. I also think it would be foolish to put a 20G on this car with the stock TMIC so i'd need one of those from the donor car as well. Could also snag the topfeed TGV's the fuel rails / lines..... just seems like it makes a lot of sense IF I end up pursuing a 6spd swap. Sometimes I love the auto, other times I mash the dead pedal out of habit or envy haha.... I do miss a clutch a lot. If I tried to do an older 6spd swap to keep my axles / hubs and what-not i'm sure it would be cheaper but then I'd sink cost into all these other things and probably end up near the same investment but without all the benefits of a full swap. I need to find some good threads on forester STI swaps with some detailed posts on what all they had to do like did they swap the cluster or the entire dash? Did they bring over the ECU from the donor or keep the forester one? Swap harness? That sort of stuff. I'd ask Brandon but they are so busy up there these days I hate to bug him with theoretical questions on something I may or may not even do.
I think you can do almost any 6spd swap without worrying about the hubs themselves. but I could be wrong there. You can get a spyder dccd and not worry about swapping in the dash unless you got an entire donor car. Will more than likely need a new ECU for the manual though. And will want to swap the cluster out (hence the dash)
I'm a really big fan of the DCCD Pro / Spyder controller. In fact, I have found I prefer it over the factory STi DCCD.
The forester chassis is basically an Impreza one so I'll just give you my insight on the swap since I was there . The 6 speed swapped right into my car with no issues of course. I was running the 6 speed swap while still retaining my 5x100 so if that's the route this is what you need to know and get. -The front axles will work on the 6 speed tranny. It depends on what year 6 speed you get and if your current axles are female or male axles. Not sure what the Foresters are, if you can just add the stub to match your tranny. -You will have to repin your rear diff to match the gear ratio of whatever year 6 speed you pull it out of. -I herd you can re-use the clutch/flywheel, but for the sake of it, I would just buy and run a 6speed clutch/flywheel so you don't have to touch it again for awhile. -You will also need to run a auto driveshaft if you plan to re-use your rear R160 diff. -6MT Tranny mount -6MT Clutch Fork That at a bare minimum will get your up and running with a 6 speed while retaining your 5x100 hubs. For DDCD I would just pick up and integrate one of the third party DDCD controllers. This is what's needed for a WRX, I'm sure it's very similar for the 04-05 Foresters
Wow thanks toua! I guess I forgot to mention that i'd also be going from an auto (4EAT) to a 6spd, not a 5spd to a 6spd like you did. I think most of what you said still applies though. I would also need a new starter since I have the auto style now, the pedal box the master and slave cylinder and the fork. Honestly the absolute easiest thing to do would be a full driveline swap from an STI with a blown motor or something, but that's a pretty steep cost and i'm not sure where I could find a donor.
I didn't do the swap on my Fozzy, but I have been cleaning it up. They swapped the 6-speed out to the hubs including the brakes. I swapped in new aluminum LC arms up front. I still need to swap the rear sub frame with a wrx, STi trailing arms, and lateral links. The parts cost just to clean this up will be just shy of $2k. If I were in your shoes I would be trying to find a full donor. Let me know if you want to take a closer look at it. Mine was a 5sp to begin with so it was easier than what you are looking to do I think.
Thanks dude! Yeah I think finding a donor is my best option. Probably something with total front end damage, motor pulled or maybe a rollover (subframe, suspension, brakes / axles / driveline unaffected). Still probably looking at 5-7k just for that though... Not sure how much the shell would be worth at that point either. Maybe 250$ in salvage at the scrap yard.