Spark Plug removal Drivers side 1. Remove Battery 10mm nuts 2. Remove Coolant washer fluid tank 10mm bolts 3. Loosen 12mm bolt located on coil pack (it doesn’t come out its attached to the coil pack) 4. Insert 5\8ths spark plug socket with 3 inch extension into plug hole. 5. Now attach ratchet to extension, loosen plug so that the extension can be turned with your fingers. 6. Remove ratchet from extension and remove plug. 7. Gap new plug to appropriate gap (in my case they are gapped down to 28) 8. Reverse Process. Passenger Side 1. Remove intake 2. Remove intercooler pipe (you may not have an intercooler pipe) (you may even be able to do it without removing the pipe if you do have one) 3. Repeat steps 3 through 8. Good Luck Matt P.S. I can now do a set in under 20 minutes
Ive heard its better to do it when its hot, but i dont understand why?? But if you do you could always get some gloves.
I would think the oil is easier to remove when the engine is warm, since it is less viscous at that point. Not sure about the pluggs though, maybe just so you do not get burnt all up?
You are correct sir This is correct When the oil is hot it drains easily. When the engine is hot you get burnt trying to change plugs.
I heard, boxer setup porsche engines, they have to take the engine out to do the plug change. Which is pretty crazy.
yeah, you can get all the crap out when the oil is hot, and i run a fresh quart through, just to help push residuals out as well (unless you have a magnetic drain plug). another reason for doing plugs cold is that you are threading two metal parts... it's better if both parts are at the same temp and come up to op temp together. also, since metal gets softer when it's hot you are more likely to cross thread a cold plug into a hot engine.
Its not hard to change the plugs at all. Once you do it the first time and you have the right tools. Took me about 30 mins today probably.
Took me maybe 45 mins of playing since I didnt have very good tools for it. I removed the whole battery as well as the sprayer tank. Pretty easy and much easier if you've got small hands that can squeeze around.
Also i would like to add in when you are changing your plugs to clean the coil packs and coat all electrical terminals on the coil pack(s) with auto grade "electrical grease". This is a good practice to do. I had to do it when i got my pro light flywheel from ACT. (Note: if you change the spark plugs and have a lightend flywheel i would not worry if a mis fire cell comes up. This is a normal thing unless you car is running like crap.)
Isn't there a thread on scoobymods about how to change spark plugs. I used it because it had a pictorial guide to the whole thing. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1596. I hope I don't get shunned for siting another forum, but these guys are normally really good.
I definitely thought that the rotating head ratchet was a bonus considering how easy it made the install on I think the battery side.
Probably so you can access the plugs without burning the hell out of your hands LOL Oil Hot because it flowes out better it's thinner and there is less residual.
crash#2 No problem Scoobtothenoog I dont know what the torque spec for the plugs are, its prett easy when they are new because they have a crush washer. You basically tighten it till you feel the crush washer crush, then you just tighten it till its fairly tight. Keep in mind the threads on the plug are steel and the head is aluminum, you dont want to strip out those threads. Matt
Warm oil flows not much better than room temp - If you are changing oil below freezing then you may need to warm it up a tad. You wont get more oil out if its hot. I dont know if you use 50 weight oil. Its almost impossible to not make a mess taking out the filter. Or you can use the bag with rag over filter method Its almost impossible to torque the plugs on our cars. - space limitations. New plugs when you reach bottom turn it 1/4 turn , old plugs 1/8 turn for the 92x the driver side is harder than the WRX /STi. I had to use a thru type ratchet
.024~.028 gap and I recommend using NGK Copper plugs, one step colder or stock temp, change interval will be more often then Plat/Ir plugs tho.
I was under the impression that my stock plugs were indeed the copper plugs, thus the 30k change interval as opposed to the turbo guys 60k change interval. Is the OEM plug that I bought for my last change (subaru part # 22401AA65A) the same as NGK's V-power plug? If not, what is the subaru part number for the v-power plug?