I'm doing this install tomorrow and I have a quick question about post install for a VF34, Sti Pinks, and Walbro 255. I read somewhere that you're supposed to pull a connector and let the car turnover without cranking for a couple of minutes to get the oil pressure up. Anybody know any more details to this? Like which connector/sensor. What about air in the fuel lines from the pump install? Will this take care of that too?
I didn't. Gruppe-s said that the turbo is pre-lubed and as long as you don't redline it two seconds after starting the engine you should be fine. I did drip some oil into it and spun it with my finger before installing just to be on the safe side though. The connector you're referring to is the fuel pump one. Not sure where they are on sedans, if that's what you have...
Yes I have a sedan. Are you supposed to do anything about air in the fuel lines or does that take care of itself?
The fuel pump disconnect is in the front passenger footwell, just in front of the door. I believe it's a green plug, but not sure anymore. You can disconnect it to bleed off fuel pressure before switching your injectors, but honestly, it wasn't that big of a deal. By the 3rd time I was re-installing my injectors, I wasn't bothering to disconnect it anymore (BTW, I strongly recommend buying all new injector seals. =P) -Laters! -Chris!
Mine sat overnight before doing the install, and it was barely a drizzle... not going to get a huge amount of gas, there's not THAT much in the lines under enough pressure. Besides, it'll evap long before you get wrapped up.
I want details man!! I'm doing the exact same thing next weekend. The injectors haave me buggin a bit. Are you going to a colder plug? If so which did you choose?
You probably won't need a colder plug with a VF34/39. If you do get them, get the NGK one step colder.
Well I'm all done. Ran into a few problems. First thing is those green brackets can kiss my @ss. It took me forever trying to get them off and putting them back on is even worse. The first problem was after getting it all back together. I reflashed the ECU with the Cobb stage 2.5 map and it fired right up on the first shot. So I go check to make sure everything is ok and injector #1 was shooting gas everywhere from under the rubber seal on the fuel rail. So I take it all back apart, tried reseating the injector and it still leaked. Then I swapped that injector with the #3 injector and it fixed the leak! I don't know why that particular injector in that particular fuel rail port didn't like each other, but swapping them worked. I almost started to panic. The second problem is it's not hitting target boost. Maybe the ecu has to learn before it does. It's only hitting about 10.5 psi through 1st and 2nd. It will hit 12 to 14 in 3rd and 4th. I haven't tried to run it in 5th yet. I'll give it a week or so and see if it starts hitting 17 - 18 where it's supposed to be. If not then I'll go to Top Speed and see what they can do. I've double checked all the hoses and connectors, all that is ok. To the VF34 guys, you did use the stock restrictor pill right? And not the one that came with the VF34. I used the stock one and I hope that's not what's holding me up. scoobtothenoog, No I'm not using colder plugs. I replaced the spark plugs with a new OEM set. If you're going to do this by yourself you'd better put a whole day aside. It took me two because I had to take it all back apart. Don't fret about the injectors, just take your time and don't force anything. I did have a problem with 1 injector but I think it was a feak occurence and I was able to fix it.
i had severe leak issues with my injectors... ended up replacing the o-rings and one of them stopped leaking... on the driver's side, there r 3 bolts holding the rain onto the block... we didnt notice the third one (on the front of the block) so every time we tried to slide the rail on the injector, we ended up clipping the o-ring... u r probably not hitting target boost because you are using the stock restrictor... i used the EBCS do it eliminating the restrictor... the new restrictor u got should fix ur problem... please verify this with a tuner before u do anything
Do NOT use the new restrictor! The Cobb maps (as noted in the map notes) are designed for being used with the stock pill. Using the one supplied with the VF34 will give you dangerously high boost (in the 20s). Was the VF34 ported/polished?
Interesting to hear how it is not hitting target boost. Do you have any datalogging software available to you? If not, since you have the AP cable, you should download Tari (http://www.tari.co.za/), to datalog. Go for a drive while datalogging and see if you can find anything fishy going on. With this you can see if you're not giving enough fuel (idc), wg duty cycle, boost, etc. I believe Moose is correct, please do not use the new restrictor. Cobb maps are designed for the masses and thus are not mapped for small changes like EBCS, etc. They are very specific maps for very specific mods. The learning curve should not take a week to kick in, and with your boost obviously there is a hiccup somewhere. Stick with the stock pill or go in for ecutek or a pro-tune.
I took it out tonight and plugged in the Access port to read live boost. It's starting to hit the right boost levels. 1st was around 11-12psi, 2nd was between 14 - 15psi, 3rd went to 16psi, 4th went to between 18 and 19psi. Full boost is coming kinda late in the RPM range. I didn't see 18psi until almost 5700 rpm. Is it supposed to be that way? It's really nice when it hits 18 though, pulls really hard. Oh and I don't have a laptop to do datalogging with. I'm probably going to check out Top Speed and have a protune done. Then I'll know nothing is wrong with it.
Thanx for the tips. All the posts about leaky injectors have me scared of buying used injectors. I'm also on the fence about what to get. I can get a used vf30 and pinks with 15k miles on them for $600. Or just bite the bullet and get a new vf34 and new pinks more like $1100-$1200. Opinions? Either setup will be getting protuned by Doug next week here in Mobile. Sorry for the thread jack. Would you say it was worth the time and money?? =)
Keep in mind that the VF34, while producing the same power as the VF30, will spool quicker by ~300rpm or so because of its improved bearing design. Also, I recommend porting/polishing what you get, though the Cobb 2.5 map will not work neatly out of the box with it if you do (I had to add a helper spring).
I got the whole package (VF34, pinks, walbro 255) from Gruppe-S for $1250 shipped. Was it worth it? I don't know yet but I'll let you know. I also bought the Greddy Evo2 exhaust which is money well spent IMO. Very nice sound on the WRX. I don't like to buy used equipment that I'm going to rely on heavily to work. You never know how they've been treated before you get them. I know you can have them rebuilt but I'd rather not go through that hassle. On the drive to work this morning I noticed there's a boost spike in 2nd. It will jump to 12psi, back down to 8psi or so and then climb back up. The wastegate helper spring is supposed to fix this?
on the helper spring. Can someone tell me exactly which one it is we need? I know most get it for Home Depot.
First off, make sure you NEED a helper spring. I did because mine was ported/polished, so the wastegate was blowing open too easily. Don't use it unless you have checked for leaks and everything and are still not hitting target boost. If you DO use it, data log to make sure you're not screwing something up. As to which one you need, you have to experiment. Mine, I believe, is an 11lbs spring. I bought a handful and started with the smallest one and moved up until I was hitting target boost.
Since Doug will be tuning it next week I guess I shouldnt worry. I'm sure he'll take of making sure all is well??
Yeah, let Doug worry about target boost and spiking and all that, that's what you're paying him for after all
Well after a little more driving, it's all ok. It's not spiking in 2nd anymore. I did make a bit of goof though, I had the restrictor pill on the wastegate side of the T-fitting. I swapped that around and everything is ok. The car pulls real hard. 4th and 5th are pusing about 17psi and it holds that all the way to redline. I'm going to see if I can check a laptop out at work and do some datalogging to make sure all the hardware and Cobb's 2.5 map is holding up.
It was definately worth it. It's ear to ear grins when I step on it in 3rd and it pulls 16psi all the way to redline. I am still having nightmares with green brackets dancing around me in circles though. Yeah right now I'm running Cobb's VF34 OTS map but I just got off the phone with Tray at TopSpeed. I'm getting a protune done March 13th. Edited: Grammar > me
VF34 lag shouldn't be too bad, not that big of a turbo. If you or anybody else wants a ride in mine (ported/polished vf34) let me know.
Lag really isn't that bad. It's pretty close to the stock td04. The power still kicks in around 3500-4000rpm. Moose, what are the hp/tq numbers for your car? I'm curious what other vf34 people are putting down.