I installed my 2nd t-belt in my car today this time with the crank seal. The first t-belt I did at 30k b/c the water pump started leaking and the dealer said that they would need to keep it for two days. Even though it was under warranty I just did the pump myself instead with the belt. Everything is great except for an intermittent synchro problem. Here is my list of mods: TXS cast up-pipe, ported and polished stock manifolds, bosal/ SPT TBE, Exedy clutch, ACT street-lite flywheel, TXS HPBC set @17psi, AEM short ram, t-body heater delete, STI intercooler w/ STI spray nozzle, STI hood scoop, dual Perrin catch cans, one step colder iridiums, whiteline rack bushings, KYB AGX struts, Ground Control springs, Eibach rear camber bolts, 17 X 8 Rota Torque's w/ 235/40/17 AVS ES 100's, drilled and zinc plated rotors w/ ceramic pads, blacked out headlights, clear side markers, 20% tint, Autometer dual pillar gauge pod w/ sport comp boost and A/F gauges, blue I grill emblem, rewired fogs, and debadged trunk. With the engine mods I've done VERY well at the drag strip. Kills include C5 Corvette, TBE and stock STI'S, mildly modded Evo, 03 Cobra, 02 supercharged StangGT on M/T ET Drags, mildly modded late model Camaro SS, and my favorite, the built GTO Judge. General ET's of 8.60's on hot sticky nights in Dallas on the 1/8.The purpose of the "kill list" is to show the guys that can't spend big money on EM and big turbos can still make their W fly. I've been running 17psi or so w/no EM or fuel mods for 70k miles now so I think the longevity factor has been proven here.
The rear AGX's had to be modified to fit the sleeves but it was no big deal. The problem is the purpose of the GC's is to adjust ride height to a desired level right? This desired level is typically lower than any given lowering spring b/c they don't drop the front very much. Well, the GC's can only be lowered about a 1/2" lower than the average lowering spring b/c of the length of the strut above the spring seat, go too low and the srut will be sandwiching the jounce bumper to the strut mount. Meaning you can raise the car as you wish but cannot go as low as a coil-over set up. Also I had to make "spring isolators" out of shaved down serpentine belts for the rear b/c the spring would rub the sleeve. For the cost of a new set ($400?) I would recommend a regular lowering spring or a true coil-over ($800-infinity) But other than that I like'em!
UPDATE! 1k miles ago I installed a VF22, Ecutek ecu, STi pinks injectors, and Perrin EBCS. On my car I'm running 20psi and have gained gobs of top end pull. It's a blast to drive. A LOT different than the previous set up. This was my "the car is paid off" present, no more payments. Also put on a 22-24-26 rear sway.