05 wrb STi aka the Blomobile

Discussion in 'Member Journals & Project Build Stories' started by tomaash, Nov 20, 2012.

  1. tomaash

    tomaash New Member

    Greetings!

    My name is Tomas. I am a first year engineering student at GA Tech.

    So, about my car:
    I recently picked up 05 WRB STi from near Hartford, CT. It was a gamble flying out there, but the car had 40k original miles, Feal struts, all maintenance records, and it was owned by an older guy who had 3 more cars (another WRX, z06 vette, and a brand new TT-Rs that he spent over $60 grand on :eek3:).
    After my half-a-day drive back to Atlanta, I was almost out of rear pads, and I didn't really like the way the car handled all that much. So, the upgrade madness begun. It could not have been a week before my first parts arrived.
    Here is what I have so far:

    RED - near future plans

    Engine:
    • Cobb Accessport V2—Stage 2 Tuned/ProTuned
    • Cobb Catted Downpipe
    • Invidia N1 Resonated Catback
    KillerB Holy Headers
    • KillerB Race Oil Pan V2
    • KillerB Oil Pickup
    • Killer B Oil Baffle
    [/COLOR]
    • HKS Type-II Turbo Timer
    • Cusco Exhaust Hangers
    • Cusco Radiator Shroud

    Suspension:
    • TiC SST Coilovers
    o AST 4150 (custom valved) 7k/5k
    o Swift Mainsprings & Helper Springs
    • Vorshlag Front Camber Plates
    • Vorshlag Rear Camber Plates
    Cusco Front Sway Bar 22mm
    • Cusco Rear Sway Bar 22mm—adjustable

    • Kartboy Front Sway Bar Endlinks w/ Spacers
    • Kartboy Rear Sway Bar Endlinks

    • Whiteline Anti-Lift Caster Kit—Race
    • Whiteline Roll Center Adjuster
    • Whiteline Rear Subframe Bolts
    • Whiteline Steering Rack Bushing Kit
    • Whiteline Rear Sway Bar Mount Support Brace
    • MSI Rear Trailing Arm – 1 inch correction
    • TiC CarLabs Development X-Brace
    • TiC Old Bush New Bush Refresh
    o TiC Lateral Link Bushings
    o TiC Trailing Arm Forward Bushings
    o TiC Trailing Arm Rear Bushings
    o TiC Front Control Arm Rear Bushings
    o Whiteline Plus Front Control Arm Forward Bushings
    Beatrush Propeller Shaft Mount Bushings
    • GTSpec 4-Point Ladder Bar Brace
    • GTSpec Front Lower Tie Brace
    • GTSpec 3-Piece Lightened Subframe Brace Kit
    • GTSpec Fender Reinforcements
    • GTSpec Rear T-Braces

    Cusco Rear Lower Subframe Bar

    Drivetrain:
    • Group N Engine Mounts
    • Group N Transmission Mount
    • TiC Transmission Crossmember Bushings
    • Kartboy Pitch Stop Mount
    • TiC Klunk Killer – Race
    o TiC Rear Differential Mount Bushings
    o Kartboy Rear Subframe Outrigger Bushings
    • TiC Super Shifter Set
    o Kartboy Shifter Lever
    o Kartboy Front Shifter Stay Bushings
    o Kartboy Rear Shifter Stay Bushing
    o Kartboy 6MT Pivot Bushings
    • TechnaFit Stainless Steel Braided Clutch Line
    • Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid (clutch)
    • Motul 90PA Rear Differential Fluid
    • Motul Gear300 75w90 Transmission/Differential Fluid

    Brakes
    • Brembo Brakes (OEM)
    • DBA 4000 Front Rotors
    • DBA 4000 Rear Rotors
    • HPS Brake Pads F/R (Daily)
    • HP+ Racing Brake Pads F/R (Track)
    • Goodridge Phantom Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
    • Cusco Brake Master Cylinder Brace
    • Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid

    Exterior
    • Hella Super Tones
    • Perrin winglets (x2)
    Cusco GT Front Lip
    • WRX Side Skirts
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2012
  2. Smokin_Joe

    Smokin_Joe Member

    my car is sitting at AllPro....pending a lot of work and parts delivery.

    I trust them..they came highly recommended...they are very busy most days i've been there.

    Joe
     
  3. Trancetto

    Trancetto Active Member

  4. 07Ltd#767

    07Ltd#767 The Neighborhood Drunk

    a lot of your stuff (especially a lot of the bushings) are a PITA to install, but between here, IWSTI and Nasioc, there are write-ups on pretty much everything. There's no real science to bolt on parts, it's just taking the time to do it. You can either pay for the services (there's a reason labor rates are $100+ / hour when you look at shop overhead, insurance, experience costs, etc.) or get some simple tools and start learning for yourself.

    I would recommend the latter. You can get a nice craftsman mechanic's tool set for less than $100. For the most part, you're only going to need the 10, 12, 14 and 17mm sockets and wrenches. Accessories, such as flex adapters and extensions, come in really nice and can make the job easier, but aren't a requirement for the install. Go to Harbor Freight and get a 2-ton jack and jack stands (can get all of this for less than $100), you should have 98% of all the parts you'll need. Plus, when something goes wrong down the road (and inevitably, it will), you'll be better equipped to diagnose the problem and fix it yourself, instead of paying for emergency shop service.

    Since you're going to Tech (alum here - you have my condolences in regards to that hell hole), you may want to look at joining the wreck racing or other automotive clubs there. You get full access to their shops and tools when you're a member, which could help save costs. Plus, you'll potentially meet some people with the same interests / hobbies that can help you out when you get in a bind.

    hope this helps - good luck moving forward, and welcome to the boards
     
  5. 07Ltd#767

    07Ltd#767 The Neighborhood Drunk

    Looking at your list, the oil pan change out can be a pain, but i've done it on my garage floor. Since you're replacing the pan, you don't need to be as delicate remove the old pan, which is usually not in the mood to be removed. Protune I would also leave to the shops.

    I would get bigger sway bars, since you're investing in a lot of bracing already. 22mm seems a bit undersized, but that can also be a preference thing. You also don't need endlinks, unless you just want to change them. Run the stock ones until they break (if they break), there's no performance gains from aftermarket.

    I read through the rest of the list pretty quickly, so i may have missed something, but it looks like the remainder of it is pretty basic.

    edit - skip the CAI. Subaru's stock airbox is good up till around 400whp. The CAI may cause more harm than good, wouldn't go that route

    edit 2 - skip the front mount, too. It's pretty intensive, requires rearranging a lot of stuff under the hood, and is completely unnecessary unless going big turbo rotated. If you want better cooling, get an aftermarket big TMIC and bigger hood scoop
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2012
  6. tomaash

    tomaash New Member

    07Ltd#767 - Thank you very much for the words of help and direction. I was thinking about a stock box + a drop in filter (thoughts?). The FMIC was to prevent heat soak, as I will be tracking the car on weekends. I will do more research on the top mounts and the air boxes. I am not trying to push more than 350 whp on this motor, since I sold my other cars to buy this one, and I need to DD this one for a while.
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2012

Share This Page