Ok I have a 2011 STI. I just swapped Ignition, immobilizer, and ECU now it will not crank? Long story short I think my original ECU is messed up so I purchased a used (8000 mile) ecu, immobilizer and ignition. It came off a 2011 STI and the ECU has the same codes on it. I unmarried my Cobb AP before removing the original ECU and then I married the AP to the new ECU and installed my tune. Now it does not crank at all? Key of course turns with no issues, gauges and everything work like they should but it will not start. Am I missing something? Was there something else I was suppose to do. I do notice the security light is staying on while the key is in the on position.
Key, matches immoblizer, and ecu. It was all from the same vehicle. No I didn't try to crank it because I knew it wouldn't start because of id2000's
does it crank? Some people have different definitions of the word. I played with mine when I had a key cut but didn't have the immobilizer updated yet. It would still turn over, kinda sputter, then cut off. If yours will do that then its probably the immobilizer, if you can't even get it to turn over its probably something else.
Security light staying on tells me that somehow the key and immobilizer relationship is broken. No idea how considering what you outlined, but it certainly sounds like that. BTW, what was wrong with your last ECU?
Does not crank at all. I know the definitions. I switched the immobilizer and ignition back to my original ones (with replacement ECU) and it cranks but doesn't start (probably because the immobilizer isn't paired with ECU). So I switched back to my original ECU, immobilizer, ignition and of course it runs like it did before. Injectors were installed long ago. Was only switching ECU, immobilizer, and ignition, because I'm sure my ECU was damaged.
Ok. So the plan is to call gwinnett place subaru in the morning to see if they can marry my immobilizer to the new ecu while I wait and to get a price is there anyone in particular i should talk to? Never been to the dealer. I'm not trying to get dealer raped.
My wife had a similar problem. I think it cost about $300. You will need to provide proof it is your car.
300.00 to pair a ecu I already have? They don't even have to pull it out as I've already done all that for them. I read on nasioc about 60.00. Which sounds about right to me. All they have to do is program the stuff I already have. Hell for that price I can buy a ecutek cable and do it myself.
Then you might want to prepare yourself to do it yourself. No way they will do it for under 1 hour of labor and will go by the book time....Pretty sure the hourly rate at any dealer these days is north of $100 an hour.
Yeah I was thinking of the other patrick who posted a picture of his SSM3 on facebook last week, can't remember his last name. 100$ is much better then I thought honestly. I just hope that this is the true issue, but it sounds like from your diagnoses that it is and you can proceed with confidence.
So the BS continues for me.... Took the car to the dealer today and they said they have to have the vin number of the car the ECU came out of in order to get the immobilizer number so they can program the immobilizer to match the ecu??? To me that doesnt really make sense because my immobilizer, and ignition are being used. So wouldn't you program my immobilizer number into the ECU? This is suck a F'ing hassle just to swap a ECU into my car just to confirm my suspicions. The head tech agreed with my suspicions but I need a damn ECU to put in my car! I just sent back the ignition, key, ecu, and immobilizer that I purchased on ebay because it didnt work as a group. I didnt want to F with trying to get the VIN number, going back to subaru and trying to get them to program it all. The guy I bought the stuff from said he would not give me a partial refund since the stuff didnt work right he just said he would give me a full refund if I returned it all. I tried to tell him I would keep the stuff if he refunded me 150.00 since it didnt all work but he wasnt going for it. Someone please help me figure this crap out!?!?!
All of your fuses checked out? Did you talk Brandon about the issue? He did the work on my wife's sti when her ecu crapped out a couple of years ago. Did you possibly mix up the new immobilizer with the old one (or any parts?)
I have not talked to Brandon, but I did call Allpro (talked to Ryan dont know if he understood what I needed or not). I guess I should call and talk to Brandon directly. I for sure did not mix anything up as it was all marked. It just sucks that I dont even have a replacement / test ECU anymore now that I shipped that one back because the immobilizer was messed up.
I need to get the car tuned but I cant until I can get the ecu issue fixed. Right now anytime I reset or reflash the ecu the exhaust avcs does not work for another 24-48 hrs. So basically no one can tune it with it doing this. Someone (not me) welded on my car with the battery hooked up and it fried my AEM wideband and im sure it messed up the ecu too since thats when the exhaust avcs started doing this dumb crap. after 24-48 hrs the avcs will work flawlessly until the ecu is reset, reflashed or the battery is disconnected again. PS it is not dirty OCV's or Dirty screens or any crap like that. It is only related to resetting or reflashing of the ecu and this was not a issue before the welding.
You know, Ryan I was thinking, the ground strap on the downpipe (passenger) side of the motor that grounds head > chassis is normally mounted on the avcs solenoid mount bolt. Might have been a path to ground for them electrons, have you tried swapping AVCS solenoids? I wish I had some for you to try but all mine were good so I re-used. Just a thought. Although you'd think if the voltages were out of bounds that the relevant DTC's would be triggered. Down the rabbit hole we go.
I have not tried different solenoids because I can not find anyone with a exhaust one for me to try And since both of them either don't work at the same time and then both of them do work at the same time I took it as not a solenoid problem but I'd love to try one.
Yeah i'm with you, the more I thought about it the less it made sense. The only thing you could do to completely rule that out is check the voltages with an amp clamp on the individual leads to the solenoids see if they are offering resistance or not within spec. If they aren't getting current, and aren't working, ECU. If they are and aren't working, solenoids. Just thinking based on how they operate that if they saw a spike in current, they might have "slammed open" or closed and it makes them stick.
Makes sense. Maybe it takes some time for them to get freed up. But I wonder how resetting or reflashing the ecu makes them stop working. Yesterday at the dealer 1pm they reset the ecu and they didn't work on the way home of course but it worked this morning which was a pretty quick turn around for them to start working. Compared to I reset the ecu sat evening and they didn't start working until yesterday (wed) morning.
It's not the solenoids. I just ordered another ecu to try again. Also the ssm3 does program the immoblizier but you have to get the code in order to program it. The dealer has access to get the immoblizier code I don't know how else to get the code.