Ok, so I KNOW the oem valve is a bpr and I know unless I've got some serious mods that it's pretty pointless to monkey with it. I know the phooooosssshhh may be considered ricey by some. OK - so I guess I might have a ricer tendency or two! Although I'm 40'ish, I must admit to liking the idea of the phooossshhh at off-throttle. Can I WITHOUT hurting/risking anything, install, say for instance, the HKS SQV3 valve? Will this gimme the phooooosssshhh that I'm looking for? Can this be dialed in/out? Flame on!
Get a cold air intake and it will be just as loud as a BOV. Or you can get a 50/50 so it will give you a little more noise while keeping your maf and ecu happy.
I've got a Cobb SF intake with air box ordered but the back order is like 6 weeks. OK, so getting past the 'ricey'-ness of this mod, once I actually have the cold air intake and air box installed, will there be any performace gains to be realized by the BOV? If not, what mod would necessitate an aftermarket BOV?
LOL, you are not going to gain anything by upgrading the stock BPV. You will loose performance if you install a BOV because your ecu will try to compensate for the air that you are relaseing into the air. Plus your car will idle bad most likely. On MAF based cars, a BOV is a bad idea unless you are going rotated and really dont have a choice because of the plumbing.
PS- Do some research on intakes. What you listed is nice and all but will probably cost you an arm and a leg.
i ran a 100% atmospheric fine for 2 years without any issues except running rich between shifts. All that does is create a loud backfire occasionally.. How will a cobb intake cost him an arm and a leg?
I haven't done much research on it personally, but it does seem like even Cobb now has OTS maps for intakes. I think that's the idea starting point if you're trying to free up some sound. It's difficult because these GRs are just so much quieter inside than the GDs. In my old STI the turbo woosh was quite prominent, even in stock form
A cobb intake and box is $290. You can get a good used AEM or K&N in the $100 range? MAF based cars do not like 100% atmospheric BOV. Some people get lucky and it only goes rich during shifts. Find the people that have problems with them and they will swear not to do it. I don't know of a tuner that would recommend putting on a 100% BOV on a maf based car. If you are doing it for noise, just get a 50/50 BPV. To each his own I guess....this is coming from someone that has a 100% atmospheric BOV on a MAF based car.
I think this would be more appropriate Alex, http://www.akamoto.co.uk/dump-valve.asp guaranteed no tuning issues with this BOV
I have a Forge 100% Atmospheric BOV that has been on my car for close to 5 years now. SS tuned my car with the BOV and I have never had any problems. No stalling or any issues at all. I also had the same Forge BOV on my 02 WRX for about 1 year before I totaled the car. When I initially bought the BOV for my 02, I had issues with the RPM climbing after pushing in the clutch and also had issues with the Engine shaking violently at idle. Rallyperformance.com (No Longer Exists) had on their website that the Forge BOV fixed those issues and sure enough just like they said, my BOV fixed both those issues. I never had those issues on my 05, but loved the sound of the BOV, so when I bought this car, I also bought another Forge BOV and haven't looked back since. I have a friend that has an Eclipse GSX with a BOV on and he told me when he shifts to neutral, he needs to blip the throttle to keep the car from stalling. He made it seem like that is normal, at least in the Eclipse world.
Well, I compared the Cobb to the AEM and considering the overall package with the AP2, felt confident in the combination. As far as I was able to tell, Cobb did not have an OTS available for the AEM CAI, but did so for the Cobb. Also, having an airbox that still allowed for the performance advantage was a plus. Either way, it's paid for so it's just a matter of waiting. So, question still stands - what mods would ever necessitate a change from the stock BPR to something other?
a bigger intercooler or front mount that won't allow the recirculating hose of the bpv to reach a stock location bpv. Or a HUGE turbo and full build that requires more boost than the stock bpv can handle. Just get a 50/50. The car with run a little bit richer between shifts but it's letting some metered air to recirculate.
yes/no, depended on the situation and on how strong the spring was on any of the DSM's I used to see. Popular thing to do for DSM's is to crush the stock bov in a vice slightly. Good times.
If you want to do it right, get an AEM and ditch the MAF system in the car. If you want to do it wrong, get a 100% BOV and trade off the noise for the high potential the car will not run smoothly anymore. For every one person that has had a good experience, there are 100 that have had bad...however, it appears you've already made your mind up, so...
you could plug up the tube and let your stock one go atmospheric. take a quick drive and see how much you hate it wanting to stall
To help answer your question about what modifications necessitate the upgrade from the factory bpv...I believe the stocker requires replacement somewhere around 25psi. I'm not 100%, but this is what I recall.
Be careful with those CAI, make sure the filter is protected at all times. I almost hydro locked my car two years back when we had the bad rainy weather here in GA. And pshhhhhhhhh pshhhhhh will get annoying really fast.
THAT's why I opted for the Cobb - since it had an airbox option. Not sure about AEM, but I'm partial to Cobb and the cost was not of primary concern. So, one of my next mods is likely to be a FMIC. In this case, am I correct in understanding that this MAY or WILL necessitate a change from the stock bpr to something other. I suspect this will require a new/different wastegate as well? (This is conversation for a different thread).
Modify your stock valve for $0.31 and it'll do the POOOOSHHH for ya and hold infini-boost. I had a stock valve on the GT35R boosting 30 psi.
No, you can use the stock BPV on almost any "good" fmic. Why would a FMIC require a new wastegate? You really need to find a shop you trust to help guide you in the right direction. Also, start reading a ton on here and on nasioc and understand what each part you are replacing does on your car and what the pros/cons are of each. Is there any reason for you to go FMIC? Are you getting a bigger turbo?
Man, this guy makes me feel like I know too much about cars. But yeah like already stated, do a lot of reading on everything you want to do, and read it twice, or three times in your situation.
I'm so glad that your perception of my ignorance of cars helps you feel so superior. The point is this - if I have a question about something or don't know, I'm going to ask. Others may feel it a sign of weakness so they spend days and hours researching something find the 'right' answer, only to learn that they're only sharing someone else's OPINION about something and not fact. I mentioned the FMIC because I think one of the previous posts suggested this as being one of the triggers that might necessitate a bpr/bov change. If you don't have something constructive to add to my question -move on.
Well I believe you have gotten your answer about 5 times already in this thread. Stick with the stock BPV unless there some reason you HAVE to go with a BOV. If you just want the noise, you can get a 50/50 valve or a cold air intake. Unless you are going with a bigger turbo, a FMIC is a waste of money. Same with a wastegate.... Seriously though, you should just spend a few minutes and learn what each thing you listed really does on a forced induction car. Wastegate, BOV, BPV, MAF, FMIC, TMIC, etc. People love to jump on nOObs and a little bit of reading will keep the flames down for you
I think we should have some of our more technical members write up small technical sticky threads with some of these infos. Maybe some easy to read technical drawings and links to further reading online. I know if someone who is new comes in and asks questions, the last thing they want is a bunch of a$$hats jumping all over them and calling them n00bs. When I joined, people were a lot friendlier on here. Matt wasn't as jaded, Alex wasn't as short...err..forget that part, and Cohen.....well he was still as bitter. But I think we can be helpful and maybe even point to great resources on NASIOC. PCK, I think integroid summed up the answers to your initial question. If you plan on making a lot of power down the line, then perhaps you want to look at FMIC and bigger BOV (recirc or atmos). Have fun and stay classy.
I mean, I'm all for offering up all of my (limited) knowledge on these subjects, but OP, the reason this turned in a slight negative direction was b/c you weren't asking for our opinions, you had already made up your mind. When we told you what and why it seemed like we were wasting our time
My original question was not seeking opinions from anyone, but regardless, thank to those of you that had something insightful to add. Yes, I have and will continue to read as much as I can, both on the forums and off. Yes, I have started vetting certain speed shops and will continue to do so. Thanks to all.
Yes the BOV will give you the sound you're looking for. The HKS does allow you to adjust it. Buy the HKS if that's the one you want and get the car tuned for it. Install it without a tune and you will have some issues. Enjoy. /thread
In all honesty there is nothing a tune is really going to do for a BOV. There is no way to "tune for" air escaping the closed mass air flow system that calculates fuel in the Suby ECU. I am all about getting a good tune on a performance motor, but there is only so much that you can do. Compensating for a random unmetered amount of air leaving through a BOV is not really possible.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4383t6rWSk short vid i made for you of the cobb sf.. stock bpv. thats the intake not the bpv making the swoosh noise at off throttle though
I believe the thought process towards replacing the BPV once a FMIC is installed would be something along the lines of those guys that are simply piecing together their kits for going large turbo, and subsequently purchasing both at once. If you do end up going larger turbo, I'd definitely recommend you read up on using an external waste gate ( "EWG" ). The sound created there is extremely satisfying :tup: Also, I would venture a guess to say that the reason behind many of the frequent misconceptions about the various stages and upgrade paths is simply because many of the enthusiasts doing bigger builds buy damn near everything at once, post photos, and talk about their parts like they're already installed (tuning rarely mentioned on other forums). This creates a good bit of confusion for those of us who like to skim threads to see what's new or what's compatible. Did you order your Cobb intake from Cobb direct or a dealer?