I am hoping to go stage 2 in the next 6 months or so, but have a couple of questions I was hoping to get feedback on: 1. Shorty vs. full dp: I have seen a shorty dp that keeps the 3rd cat. Is this still considered stage 2? I am interested in trying to keep some sort of cat in the system so driving behind me is not like driving behind a car from the 60's. I also saw this on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...em=230198337766&_trksid=p3984.cTODAY.m238.lVI If you have this and the 3rd cat, is that further from being stage 2? I understand that keeping the 3rd cat or a high flow cat I may not completely hit true stage 2 targets. I am fine with that. 2. Budget: I would like to do it as cheaply as possible (and still want to be able to return to stock if needed). My thoughts are used Apv1, buy a stock up pipe and gut it. What are my cheapest dp options? I have heard of gutting a stock one, but the links on the nasioc manifesto don't work. What are peoples thoughts on the cheapest dp options? 3. Emissions: I know about the CEL fixes (from the ap or from the resistor fixes). What about the visual inspeciton? Is that done here in the Atlanta area? I am guessing a full dp that eliminated the 3rd cat (even the ones with a small cat) would not "pass" emissions. Is there a "special" shop around to get the emissions done? I would appreciate any feedback you might have.
You shouldn't keep the stock cat. The way I understand stage 2, you need at least a 2.5" pipe all the way back, stock is 2.25, and you need high flow's or no cats at all. Gutpipes are cheap. The cheapiest way to go is catless, because the dp is about $100, but its not environmentally friendly. Keep your stock pipes, and swap it out before emissions. Do all the work yourself so you get used to the swap.
Stock is 2.25, I am under the impression you need at least a 2.5" which is basically the STi catback.
Alex said that he has gotten away with emissions with a catless exhaust. Just what I've heard. In S.C. there is no emissions. The swap back isn't hard, takes 30 minutes, and you only have to do it once a year.
That year model car they wont put a sniffer in the tail pipe. They check the ECU for CELs. Now what you do there, i dunno. Plus, if you come in with a screaming loud exhaust it might peak their interest more than the desire to look under the hood. My wife's car is a pain, 94 del sol. We had to have a bit of work done this year b/c they sniff it because of the age.
Accessport will solve you emissions worries... Go used and find a Helix catted DP(I have one and love it) and cat-back exhaust of your choice. And Accessport V1 like you said. I went stage 2 for $1050..
yeah, I second the helix catted downpipe. I picked mine up used off this board for $180 in great condition. new they're only around 330 or 350, I believe. I found a new greddy catback on ebay for around 330 or so. my version 2 ap was 580 or 590 (used on ebay). my point is that, since you have time, I would focus on used items or great deals on new items. there are always plenty of used stage 2 components on this board, nasioc, ebay, etc. while there may be some power differences b/w catted vs non-catted, you'll be pleased enough with the stage 2 upgrade that I don't think it will matter much..good luck. -jimmy
I have questions about Apv1 vs. V2. I understand the added features of the V2, but does V1 have USB connection? I am torn between getting a V1 for budget or getting V2 for better software / resale value. Any thoughts on this?
All you necessarily have to have is a downpipe to run stage 2 on an AP. Granted a larger catback is going to give a little more power, but I'm 90% sure you can safely and effectively run stage 2 with just the downpipe. I'd say go AP v1 since the title of this thread includes the word "Budget." It has a usb connection and it does what the v2 does just as well, makes you faster.
My greddy evo2 is very quiet, but has a nice rumble at idle and sounds good at WOT. nasioc has a few threads on the V1 vs. V2 debate. a couple of them do a good job of explaining the differences (which I can't, off the top of my head). however, like you I was debating b/w the two, but ended up going with the V2 because the upgradability and resale potential of the V2 made the difference for me.
Just so we're clear, keeping the stock midpipe cat and getting a short DP is indeed stage 2. And that shorty cat you linked to (ebay) is the worst downpipe you can possibly find. Flat plate mouth, catted and a shorty. However you will be technically at stage 2 and require a tune for a recent model year WRX.
As long as it doesn't show that you have a check engine light, you'll pass. And if money is an issue, hit up Ebay, im sure you can find a turboback for around 3-400 bucks. Or why not go custom, depending on where you go, it should be the same as buying one from e-bay or other performance sites.
Turbo XS and Stromung FTW!!! Screw cats as long as you get a CEL fix or a tune This is a CEL fix: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Test...005QQitemZ150191389701QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
I said screw cats for a few months, and I really got tired of the smell. Plus I could hear the trees coughing when I drove past.
i'm pretty sure i have the absolute cheapest stage 2 on the boards. the key word is "used". so long as it's a quality brand exhaust, it should hold up just fine regardless of age and in the forsale forums you can get a steal as long as you are patient.
So I am not the most patient. I was able to get a used APv1 on NASIOC for $300 and took it. I flashed to stage 1 and love it. I guess i will have to start looking for DP, Cat back. I guess from earlier post I probably will look for borla hush. I want a catted DP. Any recommendations?
Good buy on the AP. That's what I did. Do you plan on autocrossing? If so, look into any other mod before you buy them. exhaust: All you NEED for stage two is a nice downpipe (DP). Technically, even a shorty into stock cat will do. Having a cat-back (CBE) is nice, but not necessary. The ideal DP is a 3" catted "divorced" style (over a "bell-mouth" style). Buy someone's old STi CBE for cheap. tuning: (you should know that I'm a sissy when it comes to this stuff. I can't afford to mess up my engine so I take no chances) Until you get your exhaust sorted out, I'd put it back into stock mode now that it's colder. The air is denser and may over boost. Cobb's off-the-shelf maps run too much boost even at stage 1. Simply loading the stage 1,2,... maps will work, but because they're basically guessing at what your car will need it's a risky gamble. The factors such as fuel grade/quality, elevation, mechanical problems, engine life, injector efficiency, and so on were assumed. After you get your DP, it's probably safe to run the stage 1 map, but certainly wait for your tuner to make a stage 2 map that's for your car. Personally: I have a good shorty DP into my stock 3rd cat to remain legal for STU AutoX (Wish I had the money for a full catted DP...). I can go stage 2, but don't want to risk it. I've used the stage 1 map off and on for a while, but I'm waiting on a proper STU legal tune. I have an appointment at Topspeed on the 19th. :naughty: So my advice... stock for now, catted DP, STi CBE, tune, enjoy.
Yeah I'm going to disagree on this one. The Cobb tunes are conservative by nature. They don't get the maximum potential out of your car (or attempt to) because they don't want to sell a product that will blow your engine. Yes, you're going to be much happier with a protune, but I see absolutely no problem in running a Cobb map until that happens. But then again, you did give the sissy disclaimer before hand PS, Are divorced style dp's better than bellmouth? I used to think that was the case a while ago, but somewhere along the way I heard differently and was now under the impression that bellmouths were better (something about boost creep maybe?).
We'll just have to agree to disagree on that one. But FYI, on a cold morning I was running the stage 1 COBB map (with the equipment to, according to COBB, handle their stage 2) and over boosted, hit fuel cut, and threw a CEL. A tune isn't to maximize power. It's to make it safe. I'm back to stock until I get tuned. It's not worth it. COBB sets a ton of boost on their standard maps. I like the divorced style so that the flow of the two items do not interfere with each other. It makes the most sense to me. Probably doesn't make a difference.
I guess it's very possible it has different effects on different cars. I installed stage 1 on a cold day (Christmas a couple of years ago to be exact). The first test drive I did, I used the boost gauge feature on it and I didn't seem to be getting out of 14 lbs. I completely understand your reluctance to run it after that experience though, I'm sure I'd be doing the same. From my viewpoint though, I've been running a stage one cobb tune for 2 years now (it being pretty much the only notable performance mod I have) and have had zero problems with it. Granted, the more mods you add, the more likelihood of the cobb tune being bad. It just throws more variables into the equation.
Thanks for the replies. I would really like to pick up a catted dp used. I guess if I can be patient, I am hoping for $200-300. Any recommendaitons on brand? I haven't seen any boost over 14 psi with the stage 1. What should I be looking for? BTW, did a mountain run on Friday with the stage 1. Loved it!!!
^^ Not sure what boost levels are at stage 1, stage 2 I got around 17psi.. as for downpipes, I recommend Helix or Perrin.. Helix dp's can be had in your price range used and can even be found for $329 new at Gruppe-s.com.......