I have a set of megan coilovers...I'm using the stock camber bolts with them. The problem is both the hole for the camber bolt on the knuckle and the strut itself are both slotted so the camber bolt really doesn't do anything anymore other than when it gets torqued down. Recently the front left bolt slipped and now I have to get realigned. Not a big deal but this could become a pain in the ass. I'm wondering if there is a special bolt that will cram in there and I can just tighten it up and it won't spin or ever have to be adjusted and I can just use the plates. My alignment guy (tjmckenzie) mentioned that there is some sort of shim kit that if knocked loose with only allow the wheel to go out of alignment in positive camber direction and never increase to a more negative camber. I guess I could always weld the thing lol. Any ideas?
he did torque it down really tight...it still slipped...i want to do away with the bolt movement so that even if it slips or looses it's torque that the camber doesn't change. this might be a serious task...improvising some other specialty bolt to make it fit.
The megan's have camber plates and yes i'd like to just use those...so much easier. But even the big factory camber bolts aren't big enough to fill the hold since both the knuckle and strut holes are slotted.
The toe shouldn't slip just because the camber slipped. What I have been doing, since my bolts have been slipping as well, is I just max the bolt back manually. It gets it to nearly the same spot everytime and the toe will not move. If the wheel starts wobbling, then you have toe issues, but I haven't had any problems with doing this since I started a few months ago. It has saved me from paying for aligments all the time using the Ingalls.
my toes is most likely fine. I'll find out today when I get new tires and aligned again. The problem is ... even when i use my giant fat nasty stock camber bolts...the hole is too big. Lets say I adjust the camber bolt by loosening it a little bit. I then use a wrench and rotate the bolt and watch the brake disc/hub to see if it's changing camber....well guess what...it doesn't. since both holes are slotted, even the big factory bolts aren't big enough to make contact with the both the strut hole and the knuckle hole in order for the cam on the bolt to make a difference. we basically had to man handle the wheel/tire to the right camber while watching the machine and then torqueing the bolt down again in the right place. heres an example of my situation, the pill shaped hole is on both the strut and the knuckle now. In stock form the the strut is a round hole and the knuckle is the pill shaped/slotted hole. not that both the strut and knuckle are pill shaped/slotted the camber bolt has nothing to get leverage against.