Ok, I need one of the more experienced suspension guys to chime in here on the comparisons between the two. I will be doing mostly daily driving, with an occasional auto-x thrown in. I do hope to increase my auto-x participation in the future though. It seems like a daily driver would be better served to get camber plates, that way, at the end of the Auto-x, one could just return the camber plates to the "street" settings. At least, thats they way I understand it, is this too simplistic an understanding? Also, would getting only front camber plates be sufficient or do I NEED to have front and rear at the same time? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
the tein flex's come with camber plates in the front only... i have never adjusted them for an autocross hope that helps your decision
You cannot adjust camber without adjusting toe. You may be able to find some middle ground that allows you to adjust the camber a little bit without going crazy on the toe, but this adjustment would be very fine. The camber plates definitely allow you to go way more negative on the camber, but aren't necessary unless you have years of experience. The camber bolts allow -1.75 which is plenty to be successful in autox. Going any higher than that and you are going to spend a lot of money replacing tires. Stick with the camber bolts already up front, get some more for the back. Go get a custom alignment max out negative in the front and dial the rears back to -.5.
Clemsonscooby, So basically, you feel that a set of rear camber bolts and an SS sport alignment will leave me a good balance of daily driver/auto-x without chewing through tires too quickly? That would be cool...
Definitely, any more than -1.75 will eat your tires away fast. The inside of the tire will be bald within a couple of months. Reducing the negative in the rear will definitely make the car handle more neutral. If you go with the Nitto NeoGen's, the tire will last you a little longer on the streets, because the wear pattern on the inside tread has more interlocking treads. So they are basically made for lots of negative camber on the streets. One more thing. Not all camber bolts are created equal, so you may not be able to max them out at -1.75. I had to settle for -1.6 and -1.4. As long as the cross-camber isn't too high though, it shouldn't matter.
I agree but its not always possible to get enough camber up front. For instance i could only get -0.6 front camber out of my stock camber bolts.. so i bought some ingalls camber bolts ($9 a peice at Summit Racing) Now i can get -3.3 degrees:eek3: negative camber. from what ive read camber bolts dont hold an alignment as well as camber plates, they tend to slip over time. but plates are alot more expensive. But if you can get enough camber out of your stock front bolts i agree with Tom. Hope this helps:wiggle:
The Whiteline camber bolts should work a lot better than most other ones. They have little teeth that bite into the metal. I don't think the others do. This greatly minimized the slip over time. Me myself I will be getting Flexes soon and I have Whiteline camber bolts for the rear already.