This shouldn't be the first install on your car, or you will be hating life. At least one other person is required for a portion of the job, the rest can be completed by yourself. The job can take anywhere from 6+ hours depending on your expertise and tools. Tools Needed: Metric Wrench Set Metric Socket Set (Short and Deep) 1/2" and 3/8" Torque Wrenches Assortment of extenders 10mm Hex Wrench Jack stands, 2 jacks, and some small blocks of wood Polypropalene bag or other bag not permeable to oil Thick rubber band or good string C-clamp if you plan to bleed the clutch Axle Grease Cheater bar Screw Drivers Rubber gloves Paint Pen Brake Cleaner Lots of baggies and an permanent marker Ratcheting wrenches came in handy ...and obviously the clutch kit All bolts from a specific item should be bagged and labeled with the marker. 1. Get the car on 4 or 3 jackstands with a jack as high as possible. Its hard to get 4 jackstands on, because not all surfaces are smooth. Remove the front wheels only. Disconnect the battery. Put the car in neutral. The car is now prepped to be dismantled. Note: if you are going to change your tranny fluid because you haven't done so in 60k miles, then do it now. It will make the tranny a little bit lighter and you won't have to worry about oil spilage later. Use the tranny cocktail as suggested in the tranny fluid change thread. 2. Remove the intercooler. Loosen both hose clamps, front bolts, CDV bolts, and intercooler mount bolts. Pull the intercooler up in the back and pull towards the driver side. Remove the intercooler mount on turbo side only. Place clean clothes inside of the turbo and throttle body. 3. Disconnect the three plugs on the top of the tranny. Also, disconnect the ground wire connected to the pitch stop on the firewall side. Remove the turbo back exhaust system. I had to loosen the dp bracket on the back of the tranny in order to get my dp off. Remove the rear diff protector if you have one. Remove the rear driveline cover near the rear of the rear driveline (6 14mm bolts). 4. Remove the Starter (2 14mm bolts), which is located on the tranny drivers side. Remove the Operating Cylinder (2 14mm bolts). Place both devices out of the way. Remove the last two top tranny bolts near the turbo exhaust housing. Disconnect the spring from the clutch fork (located in front of Op. Cylinder). There is a 10mm Hex bolt near where the starter was removed. Remove the hex bolt. Thread a bolt inside of the fork shaft and pull the shaft out. This will disconnect the fork from the tranny. Pull the fork up and back as far as it will go so that it is completely disconnected from the release bearing. I don't remember what size the bolt I used was to remove the shaft, because I have an assortment of bolts in my garage. 5. Remove the pitch stop at both mounting locations. Disconnect the front swaybar endlinks and remove the bolts from their holes. Disconnect the front struts from the brake knuckles. Use a large sized phillips head screw driver and a rubber mallet to knock out the spring pins holding the front drive axles to the tranny. The spring pin can be seen if you rotate the front drive axle. It should look like a little pressed in circle. Tap that out and the shaft will slide off of the tranny. Do this for both sides. 6. Move to the rear of the car and disconnect the rear driveline from the rear diff (4 12mm bolts). Be sure to mark the driveline and the diff to know exactly which way it connects. The rear driveline is balanced so this is required. Leave one bolt to keep it connected. Remove the two driveline mount bolts (14mm bolts). Remove the last bolt connecting the driveline to the diff. Let the driveline come down to clear the diff and pull it out of the back of the tranny. Be sure the driveline doesn't bang on anything. Disconnect the shift linkage (12mm bolt and nut) and front shift mount (12mm nut and large washer note the orientation). Pull them apart so that they will not get in the way of the tranny moving. 7. Remove the bottom 4 remaining tranny bolts connecting it to the engine (2 14mm nuts and 2 14mm bolts). As long as the lower tranny to chassis mount is still connected the tranny won't go anywhere. Use to jacks with wood to support the tranny. Make sure that the jack wheels are pointing either towards the rear or the front of the car. This will allow you to move the tranny backwards away from the engine. Place the polypropalene bag on the rear of the tranny where the driveline was removed. If the tranny is tilted to far backwards oil will come out. Use the rubberband or string to secure the bag. 8. Assistance is required for the next step. As long as the jacks are in contact with the tranny, remove the tranny-to-chassis support (2 17mm bolts and 4 14mm bolts). One jack should be placed near the middle one the flat surface, but not on the bolt. The other jack should be on the rear just behind the tranny support bushing. Be sure the tranny doesnt roll from side to side and off of the jacks, this could turn into a $4500 project. Remove the tranny support from the tranny (2 14mm nuts). 9. Foot power is the easiest way to get the tranny off and on the engine. Place a foot on the rubber tranny bushing still attached to the tranny. Push towards the rear of the car and have a friend try to keep the rear of the tranny straight when doing this. The tranny has to come out straight or it will bind up, but it can be wiggled. Make sure the gap between the engine and tranny are somewhat uniform, because it will make it very easy to get it off the bolts. Another person can jimmy the top of the tranny if there is more gap on the bottom. Once it is off the bolts, the jacks can be lowered slowly and one at a time. At the same time, roll jacks with the tranny towards the rear of the car to completely remove the tranny spline. Don't lower the rear of the tranny too much, because oil will come out of the rear driveline hole if the tranny fluid wasn't previously dumped. Move the tranny far enough out of the way so that someone can remove the clutch and flywheel. 10. Remove all bolts holding in the flywheel (6 12mm bolts). They are sitting on dowel pins, so the clutch shouldn't just drop out. Pull the clutch off. Remove all of the bolts holding in the flywheel (8 12mm bolts). You have to prevent the flywheel from spinning. Use the clutch dowel pins and one of the lower tranny bolts as a brace. Put a wrench in between them to prevent the flywheel from spinning. The flywheel had to be removed on my car to remove the pilot bearing in the center. 11. Turn the flywheel upside down. Use a mallet and something with a flat surface about the size of the pilot bearing to bang out the pilot bearing. It should pop out of the side that the clutch interfaces. Install the new pilot bearing by banging it in with the rubber mallet. Make sure it goes in flat. With the flywheel off clean the surface. I used brake cleaner with paper towels. Do this in an open environment. 12. Reinstall the flywheel (52.8 ft./lbs.). Install the clutch disc and pressure plate with the provided alignment tool. The tool should be inserted into the pilot bearing. Fasten the clutch to the flywheel (11.6 ft./lbs.). Both of these are compression type fits, so tighten the bolts in a star pattern, so that opposite bolts get tightened at the same time. 13. Grease the tranny spline and wipe off excess. If the release bearing has tabs on both sides that allow the clutch fork to pop the release bearing inside of the pressure plate then you can now insert the fork onto the release bearing on the tranny spline and insert the fork shaft back into the hole. Be sure to grease the shaft before reinserting it. If your release bearing does not have tabs on both sides (OE bearing has tabs on both sides) then install the bearing onto the pressure plate. Remove the rubber dust cover from the fork so that you can see inside of the tranny when you are installing. Jack the tranny back to the engine in the same manner as you took it off. Once the lower tranny engine bolts are in their holes you can start to use some muscle. Have a person on each side of the tranny push on the bell housing to continue sliding it onto the tranny. If it does not want to go on, you can try rotating the pressure plate, which turns the flywheel. This will allow the tranny spline to fit better into the clutch disc. If your release bearing does not have the tabs, then when the tranny is close enough to stick the fork in front of the release bearing then do so. Make sure the fork does not get jarred and fall off of the front of the release bearing. Make sure your fork is also turned the correct way. There is an indentation that should face towards the operating cylinder. Once the tranny is close enough, the fork shaft will be insert and it will be impossible for the fork to come off of the release bearing. (This was my major problem, because the release bearing I used did not have the tabs and would not insert itself onto the pressure plate. I had to take the tranny back off and push the release bearing onto the pressure plate manualy, then insert the fork.)
14. Once the tranny is about a finger's width away from the engine you can start to put the bolts in. Even though the starter isn't ready to be installed you can still use its bolts to close the gap. Tighten the bolts evenly so that nothing gets damaged. Install the lower support bracket before tightening the tranny to engine bolts. Tranny support 14mm nuts (26.3 ft./lbs.), 17mm bolts (103 ft./lbs.), and 14mm bolts (51 ft./lbs.). Once the tranny support is installed, the jacks can be removed. Tighten the 4 lower tranny bolts (36.9 ft./lbs.). 15. Insert the release fork shaft into the release fork. You can verify that it went in by looking into the hole in the tranny. Make sure it goes all the way in and fits around the spring pin. Reattach the boot to prevent debri getting into your tranny. Screw the 10mm hex bolt back into the hole to prevent the shaft from exiting. Everything else should be easy to install and you just have to follow the reverse directions. The only side note is that when you are inserting the rear driveline back into the tranny, don't ram it in. Grease the splines for the front drive axles also. You can use the same spring pin to secure it, but it is recommended to replace these. Torque Specs (all in ft./lbs.): 36.9 all tranny to engine bolts 32.5 for 10mm hex fork shaft 37 pitch on tranny 43 pitch on fire wall 33.2 front sway bar 13 for both shift linkages 27.5 for operating cylinder 38.3 for rear drive shaft mounts 23.1 for rear drive line to rear diff 65 for diff cover I couldn't get a torque wrench on the rear driveline to diff, this should be somewhat tight, don't crank on it. This is still a work in progress so no need to make comments yet, I have some editing to do. I have pictures coming once they are all edited down to size.