Did I just fail REALLY hard? (Timing belt issue)

Discussion in 'Modifications & DIY how-to' started by K. Marx, Oct 23, 2010.

  1. K. Marx

    K. Marx Member

    Hey! Few quick questions regarding some problems I just had a with a timing belt change.

    First off, allow me to say that I work on cars quite a bit, but I (usually) know where to draw the line. Unless someone just insists, I shy away from doing high risk internal work and timing belt changes for other people, unless the car actually belongs to me.

    Anyway, I've done a handful of Subaru timing belt changes, with the minority of those being on DOHC WRX models. The last one was a car that still belonged to me (although I was in the process of selling it), and today's experience was on my recently purchased 2002 wagon.

    The last couple of times went VERY smoothly in terms of the belt itself. In fact, last time my driver's side cams didn't budge a centimeter from between the time I removed the belt to the installation of the old one.

    Well... this time was different. I fought like a mad man to get the driver's cams to stay in position. Here was the issue:

    Upon removing the belt, both spun slightly. ****. Start with the bottom one, and slowly move it counter clockwise. Okay, that's happened before... if it springs back to its previous position, no biggie, just try again. Only this time, upon reattempting, it somehow slung past where I was trying to turn it to (it jumped forward past my mark, still moving in the counter clockwise position). Never had that happen before. Huh.

    Well... it went forward somewhere around just under a quarter turn. It was very tempting to move it back clockwise slightly, but I refrained, as everything I've read says NOT to do that. Sooooo.... I moved it a full rotation counterclockwise to get it lined up.

    Then... the top one did the same effing thing! Ugh. Went through the same process, only in the clockwise direction, eventually having to turn it a full revolution clockwise. By the time it was over and done with, I had gone back and forth between the cams fighting to line them up several times.

    Okay, sorry about the wall of text. Question is, did I do the right thing, or am I about to get one of my first solo runs in WRX engine and head removal?

    I really should have found some way to lock the cams in place... The smoothness of my previous experiences had me feeling a little cocky, and I guess now I may be paying the price for my own negligence. I'll definitely run a compression test tomorrow.

    Thanks in advance for any advice. The new belt is on, but I had just didn't have time to start doing check up work tonight; now I'm mentally preparing myself for the worst possible scenario.

    Sincerely,

    Possible Captain of the USS Failboat
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2010
  2. onemoresti

    onemoresti Member

    As long as you had the crank pulley in the correct position, I'd say you should be ok. I'm assuming you're concerned about bending valves?
     
  3. nicad

    nicad Yes I am a troll

    as long as you set the crank alignment and moved the driver's side exhaust cam counter clockwise and the intake cam clockwise you will be fine

    this is usually the norm
     
  4. K. Marx

    K. Marx Member

    I appreciate the input, guys.

    I was tied up yesterday and didn't get to mess with it, and it looks like today will be busy as well. Hopefully I'll get to test it tomorrow.

    I'll post how it turns out...:eek:hnoes:
     
  5. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    That's the norm. If your cam didn't move at all then that is NOT normal. EVERY timing belt on the WRX and STi's I've done the driver's side was a pain to get to stay where they needed esp if you were doing it solo. WHen I had help and someone would hold one or both of the gears for me while I routed the belt it was MUCH easier.

    Both gears should spin freely if the crank was positioned correctly. If you feel TIGHT resistance STOP as you can be pushing a valve against a piston.
     
  6. K. Marx

    K. Marx Member

    UPDATE:

    Once again, allow me to say that I really appreciate the responses.

    While I still haven't started the car (I've been so slammed at work I just haven't really had time to even touch the thing since last Sunday), I did finally run a compression test tonight.

    The results were 152-155 psi on all four cylinders, with the two I thought I borked actually peaking the highest. Not bad for a stone cold motor with 135,000 miles, right? The thing hasn't even been started in close to two weeks now.

    Now that I've reinstalled the belt guides and tested it, I can go ahead and reinstall the belt covers and get the cooling system back together. Of course, every day until this coming Sunday has me busy with other stuff... hopefully I can get her fully reassembled and test driven on Sunday night.

    It's frustrating to buy a car, immediately park it, and not be able to drive it for 2+ weeks. Definitely looking forward to start up.

    THANKS AGAIN!

    - Jonathan (AKA, "K. Marx""... BTW, I promise I am in no way Communist.)
     
  7. b reel

    b reel Active Member

    Sure Karl what ever you say... make sure you have the guides on the cam covers spaced right too.
     
  8. Alex

    Alex Community Founder Staff Member

    Good luck with Sunday -- let us know how it goes!
     
  9. lsnaple

    lsnaple Member

    I had the same thing happen to me, in both instances. I wouldn't say if it doesn't move it's not normal, it's a very small increment between the lobe holding in place or shooting off. I actually turned mine the way the book says, and even a subaru mechanic told me it doesn't really matter to just turn it back. Maybe that was when just one moved, I can't remember. Either way, it worked just fine. Of course, you should always follow the manual. I've also come to understand that by turning it by hand, it's not enough force to bend a valve.

    So how's it running?
     
  10. K. Marx

    K. Marx Member

    I actually JUST got back from putting the car back together. I've been keeping it in my in-laws nice garage, and work and other obligations didn't let me get by there last weekend or during the week.

    Anyway, I finally started it, and it cranked right up, seemed to idle smoothly, and didn't smoke. I guess those are all good signs.

    One major bummer, though... I realized that the damn nipple on the turbo inlet for the PCV hose is completely broken off! I don't know if it broke while I was working on it, or was already that way. The car drove fine when I picked it up... If it was already broken it's hard to believe it didn't throw a check engine light, as that would create a pretty big vacuum leak.

    I plugged the hole before I started the car, but I guess now I either need to JB weld the nipple back on or, better yet, just get an aftermarket inlet. I'm not really wanting to spend 200+ bucks on a fiving inlet right now, though. Wish I could just finally get around to driving the damn thing. :|
     

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